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Dharn55

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Everything posted by Dharn55

  1. Dharn55
    Porsche says the coolant used is "lifetime coolant" but I don't go for this. There is no specific service internal by Porsche for flushing and replacing the coolant. As your car is 7 years old I would say go ahead and do it now. I do mine every 2-3 years. I don't use the super expensive OEM coolant. I used Peak 50/50 or Peak full strength diluted with distilled water. It is good to flush the system with water (distilled) as part of this as the OEM coolant can jell when mixed with some types of coolant. They system hold several gallons of coolant if you include the front radiators and the pipes and hoses to them. If you are going to do the work yourself look into a Uview 55000 here is a link: http://www.eshocks.com/bil_veh.asp?M...=All&SubChar=Q You can find them from lots of sources, just google it. Also do a search here and on the other sites and you will find lots of threads on coolants for 996's.
  2. Dharn55
    Did you use a new o-ring on the filter container? Is it seated in the proper groove. I would take the filter off, check the o-ring and re-tighten it.
  3. Dharn55
    Keep an eye on Ebay. I have seen several of the removable faceplates there over the years.
  4. Dharn55
    If you are talking about the small rear windows the problem is probably the fact that the top is not fully closing, i.e. the lid is not fully closed so the microswitch is showing it as open which prevent these windows from closing. Your friends OBD scanner may read the codes, but probably won't clear them.
  5. Dharn55
    If you want to take a drive up north I have a Durametric
  6. Dharn55
    Often this is caused by a faulty seat belt buckle. Once you find the cause you need the Porsche tool (PST2 or newer version) or a Durametric tool (OBD reader) to clear the fault code and turn the light off.
  7. Dharn55
    If you get it on CD it is search-able by model, part number. etc. which is quite handy.
  8. Dharn55
    If the tank was totally empty you should check for leaks, must have leaked out somewhere.
  9. Dharn55
    PJ - Of course it is not a 997S!
  10. Dharn55
    Since I got back on the road last summer after fixing the intermix I had due to a cracked head I had put on about 3,500 miles. Took a few months to work out a few niggling problems and issues and I am still looking at the timing of the 1-3 cams, might be slightly off. But last weekend I took the first road trip since the fix. Went from the Chicago area to Athens, OH to see my daughter's crew team compete in a regatta (they took 3rd place). About 450 miles each way. Car ran great, smooth and strong. No sign of oil in coolant or vice versa. Now almost 4,500 miles on the engine since the mix with a total of 55,000 miles. So for those who might have had or will have an intermix, don't give up the faith, it can be fixed. Sometimes I wonder just how many engines with a simple crack in the head were replaced rather than fixed, at a great expense to either Porsche (not so bad) or the owners. Yes, a total rebuild would have been better, running an engine with coolant in the oil can't be good for it, but at a 10th the price I am a happy camper.
  11. Dharn55
    My experience is that the shift linkage made a big difference. Mine was very worn so there was a lot of slop in it. Not a cheap part, but it is made out of aluminum and won't wear like the OEM plastic piece.
  12. Dharn55
    The sloppy feeling may not be from the shifter itself, but from the shift links. The OEM shift links (part that snaps onto the shifter itself) are made of plastic and tend to wear out. I did the B&M short shifter, but also replaced the shift link with an Agency Power one. Even if the shifter is replaced if the shift link is worn it will still feel sloppy.
  13. Dharn55
    Probably the battery. How old is it? Have it tested, But this the most. Common cause of the symptoms you describe.
  14. Dharn55
    Replace the tube and o rings. That should solve the problem
  15. Dharn55
    tholyoak - Thanks for all your input. So you are saying that the 12.5 degrees is at the crank, not the cam itself. I thought it was at the cam itself. I know that the advance of the cam by the vario cam mechanism is measured at the cam itself, not at the crank. Why do you measure the deviation at the crank, not the cam?
  16. Dharn55
    The sensors on on the intake cams on the driven end, so for 1-3 on the side (drivers) they are toward the front of the engine on the top of the head, and on the 4-6 side on the rear of the engine, again on the top of the head. Pretty hard to get at the 1-3, a little easier for the 4-6 if you remove some misc. stuff (airbox, etc.). Here are some pics that might help you, sorry they are not better.
  17. Dharn55
    Rick - I actually have an extra set of cams with the rotor trim. But they are a press fit, hard to get off, and also probably hard to get a new one on. I really think that I might be one "roller" fo the chain off, would not be hard to do and would account for the 12 degrees. So when I take off the cam cover I will see. Probably will have to actually take off the cams as the advance mechanism makes it hard to see exactly how the links line up. In any case we will see how it goes. I don't think the slight distortion of the rotor trim tab, if I did not get it quite straight, would provide for a 12 degree deviation. Thanks for your thoughts.
  18. Dharn55
    Call Jeff Clark at Sunset in Beaverton OR and see what a Porsche Re manufactured 3.6 is going for. I know that both the 3..6 and the 3.6 X51 were less than a 3.4, and less than $10,000 4 or 5 months ago. And a few months ago both Sunset and Suncoast were having a special on them, Porsche had a batch of them that they put out these. You can also try Sonnen Porsche (porscheoemparts.com). This assumes you can bring an engine into Canada from the states. If you can installation should only be $2,000-$2,500. If the car was drivable I would say drive it to Sunset and have them put the engine in. Maybe you could have it hauled there and the work done. Even with the freight it would be far less than $22,000. Only issue is the border.
  19. Dharn55
    Hummitz - That is a crazy number. Where do you live? 3.6 engines in the states are only $10,000-$12,000, remans from Porsche, sometimes even cheaper.
  20. Dharn55
    OK, so I am pretty convinced that I might have been off by one tooth in the chain between the cams. I was careful, but this is the most plausible explanation of the problem. So I figure 4-5 hours and I can have the cam cover off, check the allocation, and if necessary pull the cams, correct the problem and have it back together. 45 minutes later I have the car up on jack stands, the rear wheels off, the bumper off, the shields and the muffler off on the drivers side. Then in looking closely I realize that there is no way to get off the upper bolts on the muffler bracket, or really get at the upper bolts on the cam cover without dropping the engine at least 5-6 inches. And to do this (which I have done before) you have to drain the fluids, undo the coolant hoses, fuel lines, power steering lines, take off the AC compressor, etc, etc, etc. Now I am looking 10-12+ hours. And I am supposed to be leaving tomorrow at noon to go see my college age daughter's crew team race in Ohio. I can just see the look on my wife's face when she comes home and sees the engine half out of the car. Not today I am afraid. So everything went back on until at least next week. And now I have to ask myself if I have the engine out this far, another 2-3 hours and I can have the engine all the way out, split the trans and do the IMS bearing upgrade. But if I do that there is another $700, and should I do the new tensioners. What fun!! Guess I will make these decisions next week.
  21. Dharn55
    txhokie4life - I was just looking at an extra set of cams, chains and advancers that I have and I think you my be right on. IF I was even off by one roller, not even one full link, this would be about the degrees I am off by. And one roller would be pretty easy to miss by. May go back in today and see if this is the case.
  22. Dharn55
    First I want to thanks those of you have have given me input. Snorth54 - The varioCam on my 2000 is quite different from the VarioCamPlus on your 2003. If you are interested in the details of the systems check out this post I did a couple of months ago. The short and the quick of it is that the early system is much simpler, with the exhaust cam timing fixed and a fairly simple RPM based advance of the intake cam relative to the exhaust cam by a fixed 25 degrees. On the newer engine the advance of the intake cam is variable based on a "vane" systems at the drive fo rthe intake cam and a much more complicated ECU control based on RPM, load and other factors. There is also a special lifter that changes to amount of lift on the intake valves. So all in all they are very different systems. Still thanks for your thoughts on this. txhokie4life -That is a good thought. I was very careful in reassembling the cams, etc. but this could explain why the timing of the cams could be off. The timing of the cams is set by grooves on the end of the exhaust cam while the sensor is on the end of the intake cam. So if I did miss a link that would explain why the exhaust cam shows the timing correct yet the sensors are showing a deviation. Of course the challenge here is that I will have to pull of the cam cover on that side to determine if that is the source of the error, kind of a pain, but it is doable with the engine in the car. Might give it a try next week. Thanks for the idea and I will keep you posted.
  23. Dharn55
    Remember that they are going to charge you a couple of hours for inspections trying to find other things they can charge you for!
  24. Dharn55
    Still trying to figure out if there is really anything wrong with the setting/timing of my cams after fixing my intermix problems. When I first checked the cam timing with my Durametric it was showing the following readings: Camshaft position 1 deviation -10.86 Camshaft position 2 deviation -02.14 So I have been assuming that the bank 1 cam might be pretty far off. I ran the Durametric on my buddies car and the readings for these are about -1 to -2. I had borrowed a cam position tool from another member and went to check/reset the cam timing today. But visually, there is no way it appears to be off by -10 degrees. Based on this I did not reset the cam timing but decided to run the Durametric again and now get the following readings: Camshaft position 1 deviation -12.15 Camshaft position 2 deviation -02.45 Actual angle for camshaft bank 1 .1 (at idle) 25.94 (at 2,000 RPM) Actual angle for camshaft bank 2 .3 (at idle) 24.74 (at 2,000 RPM) The actual angles vary a little bit with the engine running, but you can see the advance kick in between 1,500-2,000 RPM. So here is my question. Do the camshaft position deviation numbers mean that the bank 1 camshaft is starting at -12.15, and then advancing 25 degrees so that it is at 13 degrees advance? Not really sure how to interpret these readings. But it sure dons not look like the bank 1 cam is off by 12+ degrees with the engine off. Any help would be appreciated.
  25. Dharn55
    Not sure I would agree with Stefan. The IMS is the most common cause of catastrophic failure in the M96/M97 engines. There is a interesting article on this in the latest issue of Excellence magazine. It discusses the design and issues of the IMS and notes IMS failures as the most common issue. Next month they are going to do an article on the upgrade. But the factory bearing design is pretty poor, and the LN replacement is a much higher quality part. I have had my trans off and inspected the OEM bearing, it was not loose so I removed the outer seal and left it in. I choose to do this as I was fixing a cracked head and was not sure if that repair would work. 3,000+ miles later it is running fine. I can only tell you that next time I have my trans out I am going to do the LN upgrade. The factory bearing is "proven" to fail and is not guaranteed either (beyond the base warranty).
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