Dharn55

If it was me I might not do the RMS if it is not leaking, although with the flywheel off the part is only about $20 and labor maybe 1/2 hour, so the extra cost is negligible. I would consider do the LN IMS bearing upgrade though. the cost is about $595 of the part, $70 for the tool, and maybe an hour for the labor (if the flywheel is already off). A leaking RMS is a little bit of oil and not catastrophic, but a IMS bearing failing usually means a new engine. Just my opinion. As for the flywheel, if is scarred or out of balance you need to replace it, and it is about $900.

The cost of the LN IMS bearing upgrade is $595, and about $70 for the tool. Another $1,000-$1500 in labor if you don't do it yourself.

Not quite the same set that I have, but I believe that those are meant to be covers not replacements. For the brake and clutch you do take off the rubber pads, but for the throttle it should just screw to the existing pedal. At least this is how mine installed.

The car has about 44K on it. I will try the MAF cleaner I have on his MAF, might do the trick. Thanks for the help.

On my friends 2000 996 he has been getting CEL's which my Durametric shows error codes P1128 (Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Idle Range, Bank 1) and P1130 (Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Idle Range, Bank 2). I have cleared them several times but after a week or two the CEL comes back on. Anyone know what might be causing these codes/errors?

if it is coolant moving into the engine through a crack you are going to see either smoke out the exhaust for contaminated oil/coolant, which will be obvious pretty quickly. I know because I had intermix from a cracked head. There are lots of hoses in these cars that can leak. To see the ones under the cars that connect the pipes from the engine to the front radiators you have to remove the shields under the car. I think you can replace the hoses, and the tubes if necessary without removing the engine, but it will be a bear.

Try this link: http://www.dennisvogel.com/heatedseats/index.html It shows the basics on the seat pad replacements. This is what I used to add heated seats to my 996.

If it is a Porsche dealer forget about the Fidelity warranty and get them to CPO it. They will have to fix the leak to get the CPO and it is better than the aftermarket warranty.

You don't have to drop the engine to do the RMS, just the trans. For a manual it is about 6-8 hours in and out (this is in my driveway on jack stands, with a lift in a shop it should be quicker). A tip might take an extra hour or so. An hour to take off the flywheel, do the RMS and reinstall the flywheel. If you in there I would do the LN IMS upgrade while you are at it. Another hour or two and the $600-$700 to LN for the part. The $4,000 is crazy!! Even if was a manual and the clutch was being done that is way high. Given that the warranty company is not covering the RMS I would do it and the IMS/LN upgrade as if anything happens to the car from this they are bound to deny the claim for a new engine. And that is the main point of having a warranty. When I think of this it might impact whether you really want to buy this car as the warranty is not so good if they are excluding the RMS.

Not an easy fit. The Turbo is a wide body so the bumper is wider. There are some who have taken a section out of the middle to make it fit. Do a search on the boards and you will probably find a thread on it.

Thought some of you might be interested in this write-up I found on Engine Management Systems, specifically the Cam Timing Control. It is a pretty thorough explanation of how the two systems, VarioCam and VarioCamPlus work. I also shows why upgrading from a 3.4/VarioCam engine to a 3.6/VarioCamPlus engine is not as simple as some might think. The VarioCam system is a pretty simple on/off setup. The exhaust cam position is fixed relative to the crank, and the intake cam position moves a fixed 24 degrees relative to the exhaust cam. Note that the diagram shown is for the 1-3 head. The movement of the tensioner is reversed for the 4-6 head. At approx 1,500 rpm the cam solenoid/tensioner moves to advance the intake cam, and at 5,500 rpm it returns to the original position. I assume that the advance also takes place as rpm's fall. So the VarioCam systems is relatively simple. With the VarioCamPlus system the amount of the movement of the intake cam relative to the exhaust cam is variable based on engine load, etc. And the exhaust tappets also adjust hydraulically to vary the valve lift from 3mm to 10mm. This is a much more sophisticated system. What this shows is that the 7.2 DME that is used with a 3.4 engine has a simple on/off function for the VarioCam function. The 7.8 DME has a much more complicated function to adjust both the variable intake cam position and the exhaust valve lift. So there really is no way for the 7.2 DME to properly control the VarioCamPlus system. When I was researching the upgrade from 3.4 to 3.6 some sources said that they added a rpm based switch to the 7.1 DME to control the VarioCamPlus, but you can see that this really won't do the job properly. You would need to put a 7.8 DME in the car to get it to work. Just some interesting info for those of use getting more involved with the complexities of our engines. Let me know what you think.

Hate to disagree, but the first one is for a 996/997 cab. Not familiar with the second one.

Take a look at resleeving the engine by LN Engineering, about $4.000 with new pistons and rings. This does not include disassembly and reassembly. http://www.lnengineering.com/boxster.html

What color is the interior and what year is the car? There are often grey and black interiors for sale from cars that are being converted fro track use or wrecks. Other colors are harder to find as black and grey are the most common. Also note that the same thing happens to the Carbon Fibre, my buddy's 2000 Cab has loads of it, almost every piece you can get from the factory, and most of it is very clouded, lots has delaminated.

Wait, you are telling me that you are buying the car from the Porsche dealer and they won't give you a service history or do a PPI, or is it from another dealer and the Porsche dealer won't do it?

If the dealer is the one who serviced the car they may know of problems and don't wnat to get involved. If they disclose the problems the seller may be angered and say his privacy has been compormised. If they don't and do a PPI then they are hiding something from the buyer and may be liable. Ask the seller for copies of the service records and written authorization for the release of service records from anyone who has serviced the car. If the seller is unwilling, run don't walk away from the car, the seller is hiding something.

What color. I have a 4 spoke with airbag, Savanah Beige that is like new. Went to a 3 spoke in my car.

18, a 1967 911 coupe bought in 1973. Five more since then, so I have been driving them for 37 years.

What year is your car? P0300 is a general misfire code. P0302 is a misfire on cylinder #2, which is on the left side of the engine. P0305 is cylinder #5 and P0306 is cylinder #6, both on the right side of the engine. You might check you coils. Seems like alot of misfires, and on both sides of the engine. Did you get any bad gas?

I was helping a friend clear some codes on his car with my Durametric and decided to put it on my car and check some actual values. Came up with two deviations on the Cam Position Sensors Cam Position Sensor 1 -10.86 Cam Position Sensor 2 -2.14 I am thinking that this is from when I set the cam timing without the OEM tool. Does anyone know if this is degrees, percentage or how to interpret?

The part number for the 4-stalk switch is 996.613.219.10. It lists for $276.54. You can try Sunset or Suncoast to see how much they charge. Also check Ebay, there are only 3-stalks listed now but I have seen 4-stalks on a regualr basis for way below the list price. This is where I got mine.

You can get the tip switch (footwell light switch) from any Porsche dealer, they may have to order it. If yours is a 2000 you want the glossy switch. Also, you can do a 4 stalk turn signal switch rather than a dash mounted switch. This is the way that the factory OBC is done. Functionally the only difference is the ablility to use the speed chime, and that the stalk is more convenient for toggling through the functions. If you want to do this set up there is a DIY for it, I would have to search around for it.

If you have the temp readout you have the OBC. And yes these instructions will work for a 2000 996, I know because that is what I have.

You may have it and just not have the control to toggle through the functions. This can be done with a switch or with a 4-stalk control. Do you have a temperature read out below the digital speedo? Here are the instructions for one hack for this. There are lots of others. http://www.whiteson.org/boxster/mods/obc/

I have to tell you that I love my PSE. The deeper, throatier, louder sond is great, but I also love to be able to go to the quiet mode. Particularly in a Cab.