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John V

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Everything posted by John V

  1. On what wheel size and offset is this? I've noticed that 15mm + 18mm is a popular combination in Europe for the Boxster (sold as pair by companies such as TechArt and DesignTek), but I'm not sure if if they will fit my particular wheels. By the way, that's 15mm spacers, so 30mm axle extension. Atle The spacers you bought will not work with the wheels you have. They are too big. The rear 18mm spacer is meant for fitting a Carrera offset (65mm) wheel to a boxster. 65-18 = 47mm, which is perfect for a 10" wide rear wheel. Not sure what the 15mm spacers are for... they may technicall
  2. That's a common tactic to get people into the dealership. Doesn't say anything for any car's demand or value, unfortunately.
  3. I don't think any of us are suggesting that this is a good idea.
  4. It depends on too many factors. If the hill is sufficiently steep that the car can hold a given MPH with engine braking, the car will use less fuel than if you push in the clutch and let the engine idle. The engine uses no fuel when engine braking. It uses fuel when idling. Period. I guess the real point the hypermilers are always trying to make is that if you plan ahead and COAST TO A STOP instead of braking at the last minute, you save gas. Yes but remember they are not coasting with the engine idling, they are shutting the engine OFF. The idea is that you're not wasting any
  5. It depends on too many factors. If the hill is sufficiently steep that the car can hold a given MPH with engine braking, the car will use less fuel than if you push in the clutch and let the engine idle. The engine uses no fuel when engine braking. It uses fuel when idling. Period.
  6. Your test is invalid because you're not keeping an important parameter constant between the two tests: speed. If you use the brakes to hold yourself to the same speed coasting as would be provided by engine braking alone, your fuel mileage will be better using the engine braking. The engine should use essentially zero fuel under engine braking conditions. I've yet to see a fuel injected car that fires the injectors in an engine-braking scenario (assuming the revs are above idle). The injectors are absolutely firing if the car is at idle or the idle circuit is engaged (< 1300 RPM or
  7. Maybe true, but brakes are still cheaper to replace, then engine wear. You are assuming that engine braking causes excessive engine wear. It doesn't. If you don't lose the motor due to IMS failure it's likely to last you longer than you have the car. Better to replace neither the engine nor the brakes prematurely, no? :P
  8. So long as the engine isn't allowed to exceed redline there is nothing wrong with engine braking.
  9. You would be wrong. It uses less fuel. You're correct in saying that engine braking, in conjunction with the brakes, is the correct and safe way to go down a hill. It doesn't damage the engine whatsoever.
  10. Easy. Number one. With the car in gear and your foot off the throttle the engine management can fully shut off the fuel injectors. If you let the car idle, it goes into its idle circuit and operates the injectors at a low duty cycle. Number two is dangerous anyway, so it's a moot point.
  11. I did a front bearing today. You don't need the SIR tools. An $80 kit from china freight worked well: I removed the spindle. it's easy to do if you have the Napa ball joint removal tool ($19)... and then you don't need to fool with spring compressors or any of that nonsense. Once the spindle is out, you can tab out the hub from the bearing. You're discarding the bearing, so no worries about the hammering damaging the bearing. Only took me about three hours from tools out to tools cleaned up. :)
  12. Yes, it is supposed to click. I also have zip-tied my switch closed because the click was annoying. Just remember that you can now start the car without pressing the clutch. This can be a good or bad thing. Be careful.
  13. Totally normal. Read the owner's manual! :)
  14. I'm interested in this as well. Is it as simple as dropping in the later 996 3.6 (997 3.8) engines into the eGas Boxsters? I recall you saying there is a bit more to do when the engine is going into a 2000-2001 Boxster - something about the CAN bus? Did Porsche change to the CAN bus at some point? This is probably a few years off at best, but I would definitely consider dropping a 3.6/3.8 into my car at some point. Also, Todd, where do you source your engines? Thanks, John
  15. We did it in the sun and still needed a couple guys to push down and forward on the outside while I got the hook engaged. Once it's up, leave it up for a few days to stretch.
  16. One last thing, Derek, be careful with those defroster tabs! One of mine popped off when I slid the defroster cable onto it. I had to buy some conductive adhesive to reattach it to the defroster.
  17. Correct. My car (2000 "S") didn't have that metal clip either. The top doesn't "snap" into that plate, though, it slides in as you remove the top from the car. The new top slides in - it's the first thing you do. Correct. This is how they get away with having a glass rear window! I found it easiest to do the rear, then the clamp / sliding pieces on the sides, then the aluminum plates, then the front. But be SURE you get the edges of the top FLUSH with the aluminum plates, where they screw into the top frame. If not, the top will be loose near the front corners. Good luck.
  18. 7mm spacer should work for the front. In the rear, you'll want a 10mm-12mm spacer.
  19. Maurice, Here is a (bad, blurry, BlackBerry) image of the part in question. Does this "clear" it up? I can't, for the life of me, remember where these came from! Thanks, John
  20. Thanks gents. I will definitely never do another one! Any comments on the tape not sticking? It stuck to the aluminum and to the plastic header like gangbusters but not to the top material! Also I have one minor leak (very minor) above the driver's window. I think I need to remove the weatherstrip and "goop" it up on the backside. There was a lot of factory black good under them and we didn't replace it. Lastly, I have two small rubber trim/gasket pieces that go on the front header which meets the windshield, but I can't figure out how they're oriented. I can't even find them in th
  21. Well, it took all day. And we did have some issues. But it is done. No wrinkles, no fitment issues, no cables going outside the b-pillar trim, no misplaced seams, no leaks (so far!). :) I have to say, I have done some "difficult" car work in the past. Rebuilt two rotary engines. Clutch replacement on FWD and RWD cars. Starters. Heater cores. Full suspension overhauls. Cut out and welded floorboards. Fuel pumps. Turbocharger installs. None of them compared to the frustration and difficulty of this install. First major issue, the plastic slider clamp pieces were brittle and bro
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