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John V

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Everything posted by John V

  1. Sounds like a different problem to me. When fuse E6 is blown, you can't get any gas into the car, at least not quickly. It will just overflow. If you're not getting a full tank it sounds like something else is going on.
  2. First thing I would check is the fuses. There is a fuse, E6, which if blown, will cause the filler valve to stay closed. The result is the car will not fill. Go through and check all the fuses. I believe the fuse in question is labeled in the USA portion of the fuse list as a mobile phone or accessory fuse. I think it's a 7.5A fuse. Good luck and welcome to RennTech!
  3. Previous poster is correct. The boots are not that expensive. I got four boots (two inners, two outers) plus all the metal band clamps for less than $200. Had to pony up that much cash at the local dealer because I had no other choice. Apparently you can get all the parts for much less if you buy them as a "kit" which I believe is intended for a 928. Getting the axles out isn't too bad. You remove the camber eccentric, pop off the toe link, remove the axle, rinse and repeat.
  4. You need to get under (or preferably, next to) your car and measure the clearance from the tire to the strut at the closest point. I would suggest a 20mm spacer. That will put the inside of the new wheel 1/4" closer to the strut than stock, and the outside of the wheel 3/4" closer to the fender lip than stock. John
  5. You need to post what the offsets are. The rear tire is too tall - should be a 265/35 not a 265/40. Not sure if that would cause a problem.
  6. I am not sure I would call it a failure, but it definitely was faulty. I disassembled the valve and found a large amount of grit inside. There is a spring-loaded mechanism inside which limits flow in one direction once a certain pressure has been acheived. New valve, no noise, and better braking performance.
  7. I was finally able to look into this more. It appears that there is a brake proportioning valve off the master cylinder of my '00 S that has failed. When the pedal is depressed, this valve gives out a loud "click." It's part number 2 in the attached PET diagram. part 986.355.305.00. I verified that the sound is not coming from the master cylinder or brake booster, which is also not full of water. Tool Pants / Loren, have you heard of this part failing? Fortunately it is not expensive, but I find it a strange failure. It looks like the valve can be disassembled, so I'll have to take it apart when I get the new one.
  8. After further investigation, it turns out that the car did indeed drive normally if I didn't use the clutch when shifting. As it turns out, the clutch switch which is actuated when you just begin to depress the clutch was stuck. It's ratcheting-style plunger switch and had gotten pushed in so far so it would never disengage. After pulling it out and allowing it to self-adjust, everything is fine. I suppose the DME is programmed to do strange things to the timing when the clutch is depressed, probably for emissions reasons. Everything is just peachy now, though.
  9. I tried your suggestion, Chris. No difference. The car drives fine for the first couple minutes (accelerates normally) and then reverts back to its previous behavior of hesitating after each shift. It eventually threw a code saying the MAF was unplugged, no surprise, but why was it running exactly like it did with the MAF plugged in? I would expect the car to run different without the MAF. But it really didn't seem to change anything. Granted, I wasn't wringing the car out with the MAF unplugged, but I did rev it up with part throttle to see what was going on. What does this tell me? Is the MAF good and I'm barking up the wrong tree? Is the MAF bad and that's why the car runs just as good without it? If so why is it not throwing a code? Why did this problem start right after I replaced the MAF? Very puzzled here.
  10. I get 22MPG in mixed city / hwy driving in my 2000 Boxster S 6-speed. I have seen 28MPG on extended freeway trips, cruising at 65-70MPH. Top up, A/C off. Top down, I get about 25-26MPG on the highway.
  11. Sunset says there isn't a mesh sock that comes with this part and there isn't a seperate part for it either. Anyone have a picture or a part number for the mesh sock? thanks Tommy Just a quick update in case it helps. My car was leaking from the oil fill tube at the junction between the upper and lower tube. My tube had the "sock" in it (really more like a piece of mesh tape) but it was badly deteriorated. THe orientation you show in your picture is correct so the PET is wrong. (rant) it's stupid that Porsche oriented the tube so the lower tube fits INSIDE the upper tube. No wonder it leaks. Hard plastic on hard plastic? Silliness. (/rant) Neither of my tubes were visibly distorted or cracked so I cleaned both with acetone and applied a liberal coating of black RTV at the interface, then pushed them back together. (fingers crossed)
  12. glad to hear it. you don't need to leave the cable off for more than a minute. once the power's off, it's off. ;) There are capacitors in the DME that will need to discharge. But that said, I left it unplugged for that long because I was busy working on the other car too. :P I think I spoke too soon. The hesitation has gradually come back. I wonder if the car does have to be reprogrammed for the 125.01 MAF. Doesn't make sense to me because the Bosch part number is the same as the 125.00 MAF. The new MAF is not throwing a CEL. The only CEL I have at the moment is a P1118 for a bad O2 sensor heater. Suggestions, anyone? Should I bite the bullet and take it in to the dealer?
  13. Litronics aren't a 30 minute install. Neither should it cost $700. The truth lies somewhere between. I have done two sets of litronics. With a partner working in parallel, it took us probably an hour to an hour and a half start to finish the second set. The first set, maybe two to two and a half hours because we were really analyzing the instructions (you have to drill holes in your car - you want to get that right!) I don't know anything about the HID conversion kits so I can't comment on that. I wanted the actual Porsche retrofit litronics and got a great deal on a slightly used set.
  14. It does look like yours is installed backwards. Very interesting. It looks to me like somebody broke the tube and taped it ( :o ) as a fix. Which is probably why it's leaking. Is the tape / plastic wrap covering the corrugated portion? It's hard to tell in the picture.
  15. I potted an old, torn motor mount for a friend with Flexane 80. We followed the instructions to a "t" and the motor mount failed after less than a year in service. The Devcon didn't bond to the Porsche rubber (even properly degreased, cleaned, dried and roughed up and given proper time to cure at room temp). I'm not sure what I did wrong, but I tried the Devcon repair on two motor mounts and neither one of them lasted in service. They eventually developed a nasty vibration around 3,000 RPM which forced us to remove the mount and find that it had separated again. Ordered a new mount and found that the part number has been superceded to a 987 part number. 987-375-023-04. It is far more robust than the old 986 mount. There is more rubber connecting the inner metal of the mount to the outer cylinder. Also there is more rubber in the void area, meaning the mount can deflect less under heavy loads. The new part was only $140.14 from Sunset.
  16. This sounds a lot like an axle to me. When the axles are loaded by the engine the bearings are in a different position than when you're coasting or decelerating. It sounds like the axle has some FOD in it or it's just worn out. John
  17. glad to hear it. you don't need to leave the cable off for more than a minute. once the power's off, it's off. ;) There are capacitors in the DME that will need to discharge. But that said, I left it unplugged for that long because I was busy working on the other car too. :P
  18. Yes. Same situation with mine. The Bosch part number was the same, even though the Porsche part number rolled from 125.00 to 125.01. I do not believe the DME has to be reprogrammed when going from 125.00 to 125.01. The dealer wouldn't even sell me a 125.00 - they said the old part had been superceded. I unplugged the battery and left it for an hour, and the car drives better than ever now. No hesitation.
  19. I have a 2000 Boxster S, US Model, 6-speed trans. I recently replaced my MAF. The MAF that was installed had the part number: 0 280 218 055 and 986 606 125 00 The part numbers of the new one are: 0 280 218 055 and 986 606 125 01 After installation, I cleared the CEL with a scan tool and the car runs correctly (i.e. it no longer stinks and it revs out properly) except for the fact that it seems to have a hesitation or a soft spot after each shift. Almost as if I'm backing off the throttle for a moment after I engage the next gear. No stuttering, just a slight loss of power. No codes stored in the computer. Do I have to unplug the battery for a while to have the ECU re-adapt to the new MAF? Thanks, John
  20. I forgot to list the year of my car, but it's a 2000 Boxster S. I don't think this problem affects my car. But regardless, I don't have an issue where the brakes won't release, and the clicking noise is not originating from the booster. So I don't think that is the problem. My best guess at the moment is air in the ABS unit.
  21. I'm having a strange issue that I'm wondering if anyone has come across. The brake pedal has for lack of a better term, a slight "notchiness" to it. It's as though something is binding and causing a feeling that the pedal catches, then releases. It is audible as well - it causes a reasonably loud click when it occurs. I inspected the pedal mechanism and the booster and with an assistant pumping the pedal I can't feel it in the linkage or the booster - but I feel it in the high pressure brake line out of the master cylinder leading to the ABS unit. The brakes function normally, I have proper brake assist and the ABS seems to work correctly. Has anyone ever noticed this before? I haven't checked to see if a caliper is binding, and I flush the brakes once per year. Would air in the ABS system cause this?
  22. Wow, who knew the loose-spark-plug-chirp would be so common! Glad it was an easy fix. I know that noise drove me nuts for a long time!
  23. Yep, that kind of wheel looks small because of the extra material near the hoop. It's kind of a classic 911 style. Not my taste but they may go cheap.
  24. Those will fit nicely. .3" closer to the fender in the front and .2" closer to the strut. In the rear, 1/4" closer to the fender and 1/4" closer to the strut. No worries. Go for it!
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