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Silver_TT

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Everything posted by Silver_TT

  1. Silver_TT
    As far as your surprise on the range 1 and 2s, that's nothing at all to be surprised about. As already stated, any of the higher level range violations are what you should be focused on and concerned with (but none in your case). These indicate a serious RPM violation, which could result from a missed gear downshift, for example. Over-revving too high or too long out of spec can do permanent (and expensive) damage to your engine and/or transmission. The dealer definitely didn't change this data as it's impossible for them to do so.
  2. Silver_TT
    +1 to what Loren said. You definitely don't want to use anything else other than Durametric or PST2/PIWIS on these cars. You need to baseline what's going on by doing a scan with a tool which will give you reliable results. You can also check the camshaft attributes from these tools.
  3. Silver_TT
    Everything JFP said is good advice. Because of the design of this engine, it does burn some oil and that's normal. Depending on the type and viscosity of the oil you use, you might see even more oil consumption if you use a thinner oil like 0W-40. 1 quart in 3,000 miles as you stated is not anything to be concerned with though, in my opinion. As a matter of fact, I believe Porsche says something like 1 quart every 1,000 miles is within threshold. It is a good idea though, as JFP said, to baseline your engine by getting a fresh oil change and then monitoring it. As with any car, making sure you have a good oil level is one of the most critical things that need to be watched. My 996 and 996TT both burned oil but didn't have any leakage in the rings, etc. I do understand where you're coming from though as the oil consumption can be a little bit alarming to folks without a lot of experience with these engines.
  4. Silver_TT
    :huh: What could be more "crazy" than feeling those TTs spool and the subsequent pure injection of torque and power?...in such a clean delivery. As you know, both the 4S and TT share the same wide-body, suspension, braking system, etc. The difference is the engine. The 4S is a TT with a M96/97 instead of a Mezger for all intents and purposes. After driving a Turbo, I will never be able to go back to a NA engine. Don't mean to disagree, but in my opinion the 996TT is majorly undervalued. It amazes me what an incredible piece of technology and engineering you can get for the price. People are selling them with 30K miles (mere babies...barely even broken in) for less than 1/3 of the original price. That's insane to me. If you don't like the 996 headlights or whatever that's fine, but from a pure fundamentals and engineering perspective I think the TT brings a gun to a knife fight with a 4S. My 4S with PSE sounded way "meaner" than my silent-by-contrast TT....but as soon as you got into the car and started driving it, that whole notion was dispelled......... but, hey, drive em' both and go with what you like. At the end of the day that's what's most important!
  5. Silver_TT
    To each their own....but the TT "bored" you...that's interesting. I actually did the exact opposite and went from a C4S to a TT and, in my opinion, it's hands down a better car on the 4S's best day and the TT's worst day. As far as the motor goes, Mezger vs M96/97, there's no comparison and they aren't even in the same league. The Mezger is a engineering masterpiece and one of the best engines Porsche ever made. I wouldn't be able to say that about the M96/97 with a straight face. I think it's misleading to say that the odds of never having a failure are 99.99%. I never got my cars certified. I prefer the route of maintaining them well and saving the money for fixing things on my own when they break rather than paying Porsche to do it. Then again, half the fun of owning one of these cars is getting to work on them...if that sort of thing interests you. The reason to remove the bearing seal is so the oil can get in there and help lubricate the bearing. Not the most ideal solution, but that's pretty much the option you are stuck with on this car unless you want to tear apart the entire engine.
  6. Silver_TT
    Just one opinion here but for the exact reason that JFP stated, that the IMS bearing can't be replaced without a complete tear-down of that engine in the 2006 you are looking at, I would not buy that model year with this engine design. For the kind of money you are looking at spending on this new car I would look for a low mileage 996TT instead. Just my opinion. But with all due respect to the 997.1, the 996TT is a better car in every regard (with the exception of some interior updates).
  7. Silver_TT
    +1
  8. Silver_TT
    very nice writeup and very useful. Good job
  9. Silver_TT
    Not the same as a magnetized drain plug. http://www.theimsguardian.com/
  10. Silver_TT
    -1. The IMS bearing in the M96 and M97 should be looked at as a consumable item, much like a set of brake pads or a clutch in a manual transmission. You don't say it's a scam when you have to replace your clutch every 50K miles or whatever, do you? Replacing the IMS bearing should be viewed as insurance, and only you can make the decision how much risk you're willing to take. There's no right or wrong answer, but it would be prudent to understand the consequences of the decisions you make. To me, saying "there's perfectly nothing wrong with my car, why should I replace the bearing?" is a lot like saying "my house is perfectly fine, it hasn't been hit by a tornado or an earthquake, why should I buy insurance?". It's all fun and games until someone blows an IMS bearing..... while the occurance rate is debatable and unknown, it's not pretty when it happens. If you decide to take your chances then you need to be prepared to be able to pay for a new engine if said failure were to in fact occur.
  11. Silver_TT
    Yep..... I think it's what you're saying, but be sure to do the plug(s) too while you're in there...not just the coil(s).
  12. Silver_TT
    996 Turbo S is pretty sweet, but I personally wouldn't pay up $10K for one over a 996TT X50. There really isn't much difference between MY2003 and MY2005. And 6k miles really isn't that much difference assuming both cars were well maintained, etc (there are people on this site with 300k+ miles on their 996TTs). These MY and mileage differences might account for approximately a few thousand dollars.... but a $10K differential is quite a bit of money. My guess is the Turbo S seller is looking for a buyer who will be willing to pay up for the fact alone that it's a pretty rare model.
  13. Silver_TT
    I found the folllowing if it helps about production #s....... still doesn't break it down at the option level (eg. X50): Porsche offered the X50 upgrade for the 996 Turbo from 2002, upping power to 450hp. This became standard for the Turbo S model that arrived in 2005 and shared the X50's 0-62mph time of 4.0 seconds and 192mph top speed. The Turbo S also came with carbon ceramic brakes discs as standard, an option on non-S Turbos. A Cabriolet version of the Turbo pitched up in 2004, which was only a year before the Turbo gave way to the new 997 in 2005, though the Turbo S continued in production alongside the 997 for a short period. By the time production ended, 22,062 996 Turbo models of every type had been built. The numbers break down as: 996 Turbo coupe: 16,965 996 Turbo Cabriolet: 3534 996 Turbo S coupe: 600 996 Turbo S Cabriolet: 963
  14. Silver_TT
    The 02-04 996TT's with X50 are technically a "Turbo with X50 package", not a "Turbo S". The 996 "Turbo S" was 2005 only and did have PCCB brakes standard (this was formerly an option), as you alluded to. I don't know the production numbers but 996TT X50s aren't terribly common, although not super rare at the same time. The 996 Turbo S is pretty rare I would say, if nothing else because it was only produced that single year in 2005. The X50 package was something like an $18,000 option new... however on a used 2002-04 TT today it will only cost you an extra $1-2K over the TTs without X50. In my opinion, I wouldn't have paid $18K for it new... but it's a great option to have if you can get it on a used car purchase.
  15. Silver_TT
    I would ditch the generic scanner and resume your diagnostics with a Durametric//PST2/PIWIS. Non-Porsche-specific scanners cannot be relied upon and trusted with these vehicles. We've seen this time and time again.
  16. Silver_TT
    Glad you got it sorted. Your problems likely resulted from your gas and/or climate. Glad it was that simple. Some people follow strict maintainance schedules and I do also with stuff like oil changes.... but I don't change plugs and coil packs until I get real misfires. I usually don't do preventative maintainance unless it can damage the car (eg. water pump's impeller) -- plugs/coil packs won't hurt the car as long as you address the problem immediately after the onset of misfire codes (assuming using fresh gas, etc).
  17. Silver_TT
    Yes, if you live in that type of climate and the car had older gas in the tank it could definitely be related to your fuel as you stated. I think you are on the right track. I would continue to monitor the car, especially when your Durametric arrives to make sure you aren't getting subsequent misfires. Ten miles probably isn't enough to say for sure, but what you are describing definitely could cause misfires on one or more more cylinders. I would just continue to drive it frequently using fresh fuel and make sure those codes don't return. That would be the easiest and most simple solution to your trouble! If you are going to let the car sit for extended periods of time (~30 days or more) you might want to consider using a product such as Sta-bil, especially in the climate you live in.
  18. Silver_TT
    Agree with Loren. You need to find someone reputable with Porsche-specific experience...not a generalist. He doesn't know what Variocam is? I would not want someone that appears clueless even touching my car and especially not in a situation like this . Also, you said the engine is smoking now. Why in the !@#$ is he running the engine if the timing is off? By the way, most insurance (at least in my state) will reimburse you fully for tows and it doesn't count against you in terms of increasing your premiums. Get this car moved over to someone that knows what they are doing. This is not a situation you want to horse around with.
  19. Silver_TT
    Durametric may very well show the same code as your generic OBD II reader -- however, this will give you peace of mind that you are reading the correct codes now and in the future, again, as generic readers are widely known to sometimes give "phantom codes" or otherwise incorrect codes. Because of this potential to give inaccurate results and lead you down the path of spending money on parts and labor that weren't necessary, I find generic readers to have little to no value when used with these vehicles in most cases. I would hold off on the plugs/coils until you get the Durametric... and I would try to clear the code once to make sure it returns. If at that point it does in fact return, then it would be prudent to go ahead with the plugs/coils if everything else checked out ok. I just want to be meticulous to ensure that you don't potentially spend money that wasn't necessary. Congrats on the new car!
  20. Silver_TT
    I think you have the right plan. Even if you decide to sell that Durametric later you will be able to recoup most of your investment, so it's a fantastic tool in a lot of ways. It's always interesting when you get a previously owned car, even with full records, and you don't have a lot of miles logged on it yourself. Gives me a new appreciation for what it must be like to be a mechanic -- when people walk in the door with a problem and you can't take anything for granted. If everything checks from the work you did and nothing was loose, etc then you may want to clear the code and see if it returns. If it continues to return I would address the problem ASAP as not doing so could potentially damage your TWC. If you didn't pull something loose the vehicle might need new plugs and coil packs -- not the end of the world.
  21. Silver_TT
    Did the car come with records? I would not use a generic ODB II reader on these cars, FYI. They are known to give the wrong codes and exhibit other strange behaviors when doing so. Not saying it's wrong about this specific code but I would not want to have to rely on one. Having a good and accurate tool like the Durametric which you can depend on makes working on these cars a lot easier. Good to post those codes as JFP said. The P0153 indicated an aging of precat (cyls 4-6). As JFP said, these shouldn't be related but they also aren't even on the same bank which I would think makes them even less related. I would agree with JFP that usually when you've just done something and then get a code, I always go back to what I was working on. Standard Mann filters are good. This should have nothing to do with an air filter change. If you want to baseline everything, I would start by doing a code scan (and all subsequent scans) with a Porsche specific tool only.
  22. Silver_TT
    P0302 Misfire, Cylinder 2, Damaging to Catalytic Converter Are you using a Porsche specific scan tool (PST2, PIWIS, Durametric)? White O2 sensor tips are normal. When's the last time you changed your plugs and coil packs?
  23. Silver_TT
    I also just noticed that they left the windows down in the rain and the interior is all wet with water on everything from the console to the seats. Also looks like the car has 23K miles on it, not 3K like the listing says. Looks like the people handling this salvage deal don't know about the car and aren't taking care of it at all. I would definitely pass.
  24. Silver_TT
    I would also pass on it unless you have deep pockets or really have a lot of time you are looking to kill. Looks like a lot more downside than upside to me. With the very limited information you have about the car, $53K is no doubt a lot in repairs. Something tells me the part above the fender you are worried about is going to be the least of your problems. After all the money you are going to have to sink into it (bid to win + repairs) and your time, at the end of the day you have a salvage car that you are going to have quite a bit invested in. Also you think you will just drive this car forever and won't ever sell it, but things change and I would not want to be locked into any car forever. Forever is a really long time. This car likely needs to be scrapped and sold for parts.
  25. Silver_TT
    Even if the battery isn't that old I would still be sure it's tested. If it checks ok you would want to look further downstream to be sure voltage isn't being lost. To be sure your money isn't wasted throwing parts at it at your cost, I would be sure to read the codes and follow the diagnostics. I think you really need the codes before you can decide where to go from here if your battery and downstream voltage all look good.
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