Silver_TT

Well said. Yes I was also thinking it costs nothing to drop the sump as you are saying so I definitely agree.

Curious your thoughts compared to this thread where Jake says "Turn off the hypersensitivity. You'll always find this on the plug". There's more debris on the plug of the poster in this thread but I would point out that not shockingly so. Metal particles on magnetic drain plug - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums RENNLIST.COM 996 Forum - Metal particles on magnetic drain plug - Hi everyone, I did my oil change today and found some metal particles on the drain plug. Nothing in the filter, it was clean with no particles of any sort. I had my IMS changed 3000kms ago. Should I stop using the engine or this...

This was the first time you put in the magnetic plug, is that right? First time is probably the worst time. Not sure about the one you are using but some of them like the LN product are very strong magnets. I agree with JFP maybe it's a little more than you would like to see but not grossly so IMHO. An oil analysis from SpeeDiagnostix is probably a good investment of $60. The IMS went out on your Boxster and cracked the engine block?

JFP saw these cars every day as a shop owner so I would never question experience......but is that really very much accumulation? It doesn't seem that bad to me from the picture. If that were my car I would do an oil analysis though. Second I would take a picture, like you did, each oil change and monitor it over time. If you notice an uptick from one oil change to the next that would be cause for alarm.

When I load this website in incognito mode (ie. cleared cookies) I get that same message.. but then I click the "I accept" white button next to it and it goes away. If you click on the "adjust your cookie settings" that is only a hyper link to here: https://www.renntech.org/cookies/ In other words, it is not intended to be a link that will change the settings on your device. It is an informational message only, not intended to change settings on your application or device.

Many websites require you to have cookies enabled to function properly (eg. most websites that require you to login, etc). Not all cookies are bad, they are just a way of storing some data on your device. It's malicious websites that would use these in an inappropriate or harmful way......but your best bet is to stay off of "unknown" websites that might try to trick you or steal your information (from cookies, trojan attacks, or otherwise) anyway.

Click on "I accept" .. if it keeps coming up this is an issue with your device/browser (you can prove this by trying another device). For example it works just fine for me and I'm on 14.4.2 also. Be sure you don't have "block all cookies" on, etc. You can also download Google chrome for the iPad as well and try that..... Clear the history and cookies from Safari on your iPhone, iPad, or iPod touch SUPPORT.APPLE.COM Learn how to delete your history, cookies, and cache in Settings.

I like the fact that there aren't adds all over this website and the information is not biased. It costs a lot to run a site like this annually and the people here are helping out of the "goodness of their heart" -- and thankfully, this site (and that moderator) taught me so much and saved me literally over $10-20K in the last 20 years.. maybe more if I think about it now, hmm I am on other forums that are free but they are supported by vendors so the information is biased and they are always posting and pushing sales of stuff I'm not interested in like aftermarket LED's to "trick out" your car or tunes, cat deletes, o2 spacers , etc. Frankly I find stuff like that to be complete garbage and annoying to look at flashing around when I'm trying to read information. Thanks for donating. It will be a dark day in the world of Porsche owners if this site ever closes down...... I literally bought a 911TT because of about 5 people on this site that I knew would always be able to help me. Kind of weird to think about that but it's true......

This happened on my 996. The vibration kills the cats on this car and, indeed, the honeycomb breaks apart. Sometimes you can hear this if you hammer on the cat with a rubber mallet. For sure you can hear it once the cat is off and you shake it. You can take your old cats to a scrap metal yard and get $200 or so (metal prices have changed a lot don't know market price) Chances are your bank 2 is not far behind (you can monitor this with Durametric, I have posted on this in the past) so I would replace them both if you get a good deal on a used set. Once you put the new cats on you may have to drive 100 or 200 miles to pass your smog checks (you can check readiness states in Durametric)

I built this for $47 and have been using it on my car since I replaced the AOS. I plan to monitor it every ~6 months or so to study the signal over time and help me know when I could have a vacuum leak, in the AOS for example. I will still do the AOS every 50K miles regardless because a marginal one can affect your engine's health or even destroy an engine if the vacuum is too high. A lot of times you will see these devices being sold as HVAC devices but these can have multiple purposes as you say. You can use it on multiple cars as long as you have the gas cap fitting made for it. One important thing to note is that the spec vacuum level can vary widely. Very generally speaking older pre-DFI models like the 2005 Carrera S will run a lower signal of vacuum (~5" H20) where as the DFI cars can run 15" H20 or even much higher. For example my 2014 Audi 2.0T runs vacuum of 35-40" H20 after being bumped up by Audi several years after the initial spec. A lot of people say you can just use a standard pressure gauge in " Hg but this is not an accurate measure and should not be used especially on cars with lower levels of vacuum like 5" where a pressure gauge will not provide the accuracy required. They are building a new racetrack where I live and I am considering buying a new track car to go with it. When that time comes, I will use the manometer to keep that car healthy as well.

110K miles on it and it's still the original AOS? I agree with JFP about testing it with a digital manometer but honestly at that mileage if you are sure it's the original I would replace that preemptively. Even if you don't have a ton of blow by and the engine is healthy that is a lot of mileage on that diaphragm (oil and fuel additives are hard on it, they even revised the material related to this to help it last longer and be more durable), I can't imagine it's in very good shape. It's better to catch these before they start to fail for numerous reasons.... it's not really a fun job on that car if you asked me, but I would still prioritize it and get it done. Also on your question about fuel trims, this video will answer all your questions: This will also be helpful in the context of this thread:

Loren can respond but guessing it's a one-off thing related to the routing -- have you noticed this one time or over a longer period? RennTech has many, many international members including from the Netherlands. No one is excluded by design.

Yes, the moderator above is spot on.

You should check by your actual VIN. Even using your VIN on the Sunset or other websites sometimes isn't 100% for filtering results BUT you will notice when you "check out" and pay at Sunset it asks for the VIN for the vehicle the parts will go on. Sunset guarantees fitment and the part as long as you provide the VIN which they will cross-check for online orders before sending it out. I think you should call Sunset Porsche via phone, give them your VIN. Or place the order online but be sure to provide your VIN to them. In general I trust ECS way less than Sunset. But still always use your VIN to be 100% sure.

Sounds like you already have a great source of information. I am really only familiar with the USA vendors but certainly you have good options in your geographic location and sounds like you already have it sorted. If you ever need a "second opinion" or another source of info now you have one! 🙂

+1 for Sunset for OE Porsche (or Audi!) parts

That is some amazing mileage. ALL HAIL THE MEZGER (*silence*) 🙂 Seriously, I would call Gbox in Boulder, Colorado. Porsche does only replace complete tranny's that is correct (told the same thing in the USA for my 996TT). Stan at GBox is the leading expert on this gearbox. I have done business with them and was very happy with him. I know you're in Switzerland but he would be a valuable resource for you to talk to.

Good info! My two cents because I find this stuff interesting, may not be telling you anything you don't already know: DFI cars (not just Porsche) generally run a much higher signal of crankcase vacuum. As a matter of fact in several cases this was done after the fact. For example, Audi, who was an early adopter of DFI, bumped up the vacuum signal almost 10 times higher (~5" H20 to ~40" H20) several years after the introduction of DFI in their engines. This required a new AOS/PCV, ECU update, etc. This was obviously done to reduce/eliminate oil consumption, help ring seal, lower fuel dilution, etc (these are all inter-related). OEM's have done all sorts of things to address issues with DFI not limited to changes in oil control rings, vacuum levels, etc. I personally find this fascinating. Don't be surprised to hook your manometer up to a newer DFI vehicle and find it's running a much higher signal of vacuum than older generation cars. As both posters show, it is critical to know the "healthy" range. I have been measuring my crankcase vacuum but will replace my AOS/PCV preemptively every 40-50K miles just because the part is so cheap and a failing unit can cause so many issues. When I just did mine a few months ago I found it was starting to fail but I wasn't getting a CEL. Guess it's important to remember that every "failure" of a part doesn't always come with an error code. For some parts IMHO it makes sense to get to the part before it gets to you. DFI cars also control fuel trims much tighter and have evolved to have extremely precise timing and control with ultra fast injectors like the piezoelectric injectors. In some sense these cars are totally different animals than the port injected predecessors (I'm not necessarily saying they are better).

Thanks for the info! Ya, wasn't sure, I had just navigated to Sunset Porsche's parts website and selected 2004 Cayenne Turbo. I was surprised to see injectors, the fuel rails, etc when I was navigating through the engine and fuel components. I always search by VIN when I have it instead since it eliminates the possibility of stuff like this. The 4.8 litre was around 2008 right? This is when I would have expected the introduction of DFI (or thereabouts), 2004 too early. I know Porsche is ahead on technology and all 🙂 That's why I initially was saying I was surprised. I do agree with Davesly, if this started happening since the intake was put back on I would make sure you don't have a leak like he/she showed above. This would cause misfires mostly on the cylinder the leak is on (as your error code showed) but can also cause others to miss. Hopefully it's something simple like this.

Yes, I totally agree with you an intake leak like you show will cause a misfire(s). Great thing to look for and very easy, thanks for pointing that out.

I can confirm what JFP says. It’s been many years but I recall very clearly on a 2002 911 C4S after replacing cats/o2s having to drive many miles until the readiness state would go to OK (and I could go get my emissions sticker). Durametric will only tell you the status of the states; it can not speed up the process of resetting/correcting the readiness states.

I agree with Loren. You asked if it was a fuel injector issue (I didn't realize the 2004 Cayenne Turbo was DFI but I checked and it looks like it is). I have seen the exact codes you have caused due to a bad injector (and it was also at idle). Different engine but it had two codes: 1) a P030300 - Cyl.3 Misfire Detected and 2) P030000 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected Replacing the injector fixed the issue. Not telling you to throw parts at it, just a FYI data point for you.

yep, still here kicking a$$ and taking names

JFP hits the nail on the head (again)...... with pics to boot 😉 Documented his work in detail, that is just strong work. Glad you got it sorted. Welcome to the best Porsche technical site (as evidenced above).

Wow, that's some first class service here at RennTech 😉