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About dstrimbu

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    Contributing Member
  • Birthday June 9

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  • From
    Chicago area, Illinois, USA
  • Porsche Club
  • Present cars
    1990 BMW 735iA
    2006 Carrera 4S Coupe
  • Future cars
    I gotta have a 998... <g>
  • Former cars
    1969 LT-1 Corvette Coupe
    1976 Pontiac Trans-AM w/1971 SD-455 transplant
  1. Dunno about all season (that's too much of a compromise for me) - but the Pirelli 240 Winter SnowSports are full winter compound, "N-zero" rated, and are available in 235 and 295 width in 19' fitment for the 997. I have a set on takeoff Lobster Forks on my C4S (yes, the rears are 10mm narrower than stock 305s). They are quiet and stable on dry roads. While these wide tires violate all normal winter tire fitment schemes (generally go with -1 or -2 sizing to reduce tread width, that helps you go straight in the snow) - they look great and go like Hell in any snow less than a couple of inches. That being said, if there's more than a couple of inches of snow, your front clip becomes a snow plow... not good. I bought them for cold days with clear roads, but sometimes I just can't help myself and have to go out and play snowmobile... I love the look of amazement on peoples' faces when I launch, throwing snow from all 4 tires... :-) Good luck! -don
  2. I got the Porsche standard-issue winter wheels & tires + the hardtop (I have a C4 Cab). Porsche Nashua stores all this for a fee and I drive up each spring/fall and swap. Great stuff. I can pass ANY SUV in the winter time while they're fishtailing and sliding all over....(this happened in the worst snow storm of the year last year...blew by a BMW X5...I had to, it was sliding all over the place :) Enjoy, and sorry I don't know what the standard-issue P-tire is for winter time I have., but they're great. Damon I bought 19" Carrera S "lobster fork" takeoffs from Wheel Enhancement, with Pirelli 240 SnowSports mounted - stock size front, 295 width rear (instead of my 4S' normal 305). They are wonderful! Noise is pretty low, grip is great. The car is truly a gas to drive in snow, with 2 caveats... 1.) Ground clearance can be a problem - the Porsche front clip is a weak, expensive snow plow and, 2.) I know that I can stop. What about the guy behind me in the 5500 lb. SUV? Other than that, I heartily recommend driving the 997 year 'round! Nothing better than a cold clear day in January to get good intake charge density... :-) -don
  3. With a Check Engine, it's most likely an emissions related sensor / issue. Check Engine should not illuminate to denote service intervals; that's a part of the PCM... A solid Check Engine is OK to drive - as long as you're headed to the dealer / workshop. A flashing Check Engine means that catalytic converter failure is imminent; the engine electronics cannot control the air/fuel mix with precision... Get it checked out! I would think that the Check Engine light activation event is recorded in the ECU history stack (as a function of total engine run hours); showing up at the dealer tens of hours after the light activation could very well cause a "warranty failure" - that is, a failure of PCNA to honor your warranty! -don
  4. My dealer also had issues ordering the part... finally got two, after several tries... Even with iron brakes, two make life very easy when changing wheels... Don't forget the hockey puck trick for your floor jack. A standard hard rubber puck placed in the cup of your floor jack fits the jack receiver perfectly on the 997. Works like a charm. -don
  5. I love her sense of humor! You're a pretty lucky guy, TP... <g> -don
  6. Hmmmm. I have a '06 C4S with 6700 miles, purchased new. I have never experienced any lag in any gear when at or over 3k RPM... In fact, the car pulls strongly from 2k in 2nd or 3rd gear. Do you feel the "lag" in all gears? What about above 3k RPM? -don
  7. In "production mode" (transport speed limiter "on") you are limited to 20mph / 35kmh... you'd definitely notice that. <g> -don
  8. fm540i: did you ever make this move? I'd be interested in hearing your results... thanks, -don
  9. I would echo these comments. 'Pushing' the car engine when cold is definitely a bad thing to do. I understand that using more than 1.5l of engine oil 600 miles = replacement engine required. Some people report very little oil usuage, others higher. Jean, from what I've seen, your half a quart (half of 946.35ml) every 1000 miles is not something to have to be worried about. That said, your service department would have given you the same response if you were using that much oil every 3000 miles. Pushing the 997 motor when oil temps are under 200 degrees F is a recipe for failure. Doesn't matter how much oil is moving in the system - what matters is the temperature differential between the major engine components. Start up, drive off. Keep it under 4200-4500 RPM until the oil temp is 200 degrees F. Then rev the Hell out of it. <g> Just MHO, -don
  10. Take that new yellow beauty to the dealer and have them fix it! You should not have to deal with this, the car is under warranty.... -don
  11. I never experienced this condition in my 997 S. Rather than have amateurs second guess possible causes on a web site , my car would have been at the dealer this morning . Agreed. Your clutch could be slipping. It could be an internal engine issue. It does not sound good. Get to thy dealer post haste! -don
  12. Yes the same thing just happened to me. Here's the scenario. I put in 87 octane gas for the last few weeks. No problems with that, including the use of the first half of a tank (see later). I parked on Friday, had heavy rains and damp cool weather over the weekend, on Monday when I took it out the car sputtered on acceleration and seemed to be running out of gas, but seemed to not misfire at low revs and at 30-45 mph. At lunch I went out to the car and started it up and had no problems. The car revved nicely and pulled up to speed without problem. I put in a bottle of stp and filled up the remaining half tank with 89 just to be safe. The car is running fine now. Possibly water was sucked in somehow over the weekend or at startup. Possibly the gas was bad, but the first half tank was fine which is difficult to understand. Possily some sensor was corroded or affected by the weather that a 20 minute drive rectified. Possibly the use of 87 gas has a cumulative negative effect. Dave: 87 octane is a no-no with these cars... heck, 89 isn't even close. You NEED 93 octane fuel if it's available.. if not - buy the highest octane you can find (we have 93 in the Midwest, I know that other areas are limited to 92 or even 91...). DME can only correct within a limited range for poor fuel. You risk engine damage if you continue to use 87 octane... needless to say your engine output is likely off quite a bit! And, whatever you use - keep that tank full! I'm dealing with a tank of bad fuel right now, and it's frustrating - you don't need condensation building up in the tank to exacerbate the issues. Just MHO. Be safe! -don
  13. No, Mobil 1 is what PCNA recommends... I'm sticking with it! If Pentosynth is anywhere _near_ as expensive as their hydraulic fluids, it can't be worth it... <g> -don
  14. I think it's time to call PCNA and request oversight from their technical staff. It sounds like the dealer is just fidgeting at this point... MHO, -d
  15. Absolutely, but I think that Hatchback meant that the _business_ is the lessee...
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