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987_RDC

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Everything posted by 987_RDC

  1. 987_RDC
    99 Cabriolet CR-220 R 3297 Serial: W5012210
  2. 987_RDC
    I assume you are referring to the 987 and 997 engines, how do you test for that? Leak down? What other issues are there to look for?
  3. 987_RDC
    My top is in that current state also. Sounds like you need someone to run a calibration sequence. After 1000 executions the system flips calibration needed.
  4. 987_RDC
    Can someone let me know what part number ABS module should be swapped in if using an updated 987.1 engine? Seems there are so many versions. Where can I find the plugs to adapt the instrument cluster? (From 99) What about eGas harness?
  5. 987_RDC
    What is the correct pressure for low and high side for 1999 Carrera?
  6. 987_RDC
    How do the 986 folks get around these issues? Seen quite a few threads with them running 987.1 engines....
  7. 987_RDC
    Searched around but most results were using a 996 engine going into a Boxster. Are there any limitation to using a newer non-DFI 987.1 engine which is 3.4L into a 996? Is there an issue with Variocam Plus that could be resolved with ECU flash? (assume need to run a wire)
  8. 987_RDC
    I am also missing just a lid on one of my visors. Are the lighted and unlighted lids the same?
  9. 987_RDC
    Perhaps the flap that actuates inside the intake plenum is not functioning. It it run by vacuum and solenoid and locate inside the intake tube behind the throttle body. (makes it very hard to access with engine installed....
  10. 987_RDC
    I had my top in service position and already had the back carpet out, thus I was able to get to all the screws in the back area also. You might need to pop the tension straps and remove rear carpet to get to the back parts. I highly recommend E6000 glue and metal washer to re-create the bolt hole to hold the top properly.
  11. 987_RDC
    BTW fixed a similar "rise" in my rear seat area recently. Drop the back seats and remove the two phillips screws. I bet the tab on the rear cover under the carpet area has broken off. That causes the rear piece to flex up. I removed all the screws from the piece and took it out. Used e6000 glue and glued a washer to the broken plastic (and remaining piece I found). Allowed the back to be bolted in nice and flush.
  12. 987_RDC
    Thanks for the tip. I had originally verified the microswitch functionality with manually pressing and then moved on. Your post had me remove the carpet behind the rear seats so I could clearly see the final latch. It didn't move as expected. Seems the metal "foot" from the final latch has broken off. This slider is inside the clamshell drive and engages with the black metal piece after the foot piece starts the sliding motion. Thus the back latch never completes. Borrowed img from another member's rear drive dis assembly: (part circled in red) My piece with the "foot" snapped off that begins the last latch travel, the black piece engages with the slide drive after foot catches. Hoping I can get help from friendly fellow Cabriolet owner to get a replacement part.... I also took apart the roof latch and adjusted the microswitch which detects touching the roof to be more sensitive, then adjusted the rear tension cables such that they are not "flopping" the roof down onto the frame but barely allowing the microswitch to be triggered. Anyway. Hoping this thread can be a one-stop-shop for future Cabriolet owners facing the various issues causing issues. (beyond basic fluid replacement)
  13. 987_RDC
    Update: The latch cover did solve the final switch problem and allows back windows to rise. But roof halts half way (Both directions) using the instrument button. I can execute a calibration using PIWIS and the top goes from fully tucked away, travels all the way to the up position and the latch extends. But it doesn't attempt to latch, it just reverses and goes back to fully closed and clamshell covered/latched. PIWIS reports a timeout. Can others confirm calibration sequence should be like this? I've manually checked all the micro switches with "input values" display on the PIWIS. The latch microswitch is functional and does confirm clamshell fully closed. Also if I halt the calibration (beyond halfway) I can confirm the dash switch fully closes the roof (roof latch microswitch activates). Back windows roll up and everything buttons up. From roof fully retracted: Dash button opens clamshell, both flaps drop but roof fails to rise. (confirmed flaps switches indicate they are both down) From roof deployed: Button rolls down windows, raises the clamshell and roof beings to move back. Halts halfway. Help? My next steps are to remove and lubricate the side flaps and also inspect the convertible top potentiometer. Perhaps that is bad or got knocked loose. Anyone have info on flap removal? Found potentiometer diagram on http://www.cabriolethydraulics.com/_pdf/Carrera_DIY,Inspection_Removal,Shipping_02_21_12.pdf which shows how to remove the hydraulics.
  14. 987_RDC
    Where can I find a 900g bottle? Seems everything at the local stores is tiny and full of lots of crap I don't need. I already put correct PAG oil into the compressor. (empty system and yes will vac first)
  15. 987_RDC
    I believe I need the $9 latch cover since the final switch is not being pressed. This is in line with the error code of Timeout, only after going through the entire process. 996.561.787.000.1C (remove old remnants, snip circles and glue into place on top of metal latch)
  16. 987_RDC
    What are you replacing the wood trim with? Mine is suffering from same fate. I bought a new dark root wood passanger side trim in grey but don't have the drivers side.
  17. 987_RDC
    Repairing my convertible top this weekend. Things went well with the fluid install (was dry from previous owner). I attempted the calibration via PIWIS, top goes through the entire process then stops before it tries to latch. Reversed and then complains of Timeout. Which microswitch would this be? Also where do I find the potentiometer to verify ohm at start? Seems this should help me but still interested in folks feedback on possible issue: www.welton-village.org.uk/porschesofttopp.pdf
  18. 987_RDC
    Sounds like cracked ignition coil. Remove and inspect, swap it with another coil to confirm. (if fault follows that pack)
  19. 987_RDC
    Not to be a grave digger but Seafoam addeed to my oil solved a ticking sound I was hearing at idle on the 1,3.5 side. I knew shouldn't be there as I didn't hear the same on other bank. Added to oil and let it idle, then did a oil change.
  20. 987_RDC
    I had the snap-on from earlier use on domestic cars but Uview looks like a great tool. I guess I need to check the front radiator tubes also since not sure if pulling vacuum past the thermostat. That could explain the system quickly returning to atmosphere. Adapter arrives this weekend. Adapter did the trick. O-ring was leaking the vacuum. Sucked up the coolant out of 6 gallon water jug I got off amazon. Chilly
  21. 987_RDC
    What is torque spec for #4 and the bolt below that?
  22. 987_RDC
    Pelican has a kit. Installed it in my 1999 Cab.
  23. 987_RDC
    I agree, seems top was replaced by eBay special. Option D, Circle cap PN: 99655545700 Last three would be color. If black I think it is A03. Though your pics look blue IMO. (G10 if Metropole blue)
  24. 987_RDC
    Easiest: Updated Becker all-in-one cable: BAS.iPOD Or Also seen some people recommend the: BLAU/8-POD2 or 3 (if needing another AUX) (Install info, http://www.discountc...s/blau8-pod.htm) Or - Phone power cable – p/n 5001.524-276 - Audio/telephone cable kit - p/n 1319.116-276 [Read that alternatively can use Blitzsafe adapter to charge newer devices: 764244 26241] Radio pin out : http://mysite.verizon.net/mark00/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/004-2.jpg
  25. 987_RDC
    I've been using the 5w-40 Pennzoil Euro spec (for higher ZDDP than mobile 1). Good results so far in sunny CA.
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