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Everything posted by mprowan87

  1. Parts needed to make a "homemade smoke machine": -Fog machine (the type people use for halloween props) (can be found on eBay for cheap) -Aquarium Air Pump (Walmart or Amazon) -Cooler ($5 bucks at the thrift store) -Vacuum hose (about 13 feet) -2x Metal fittings that will fit into the vacuum hose (needs to be somewhat heat resistant) -1 Gallon of Fog Solution (eBay) -Surge Protector (to plug fog machine and aquarium pump into) I bolted the fog machine to the top of the cooler and ran some vacuum hose from the output of the fog machine to a fitting that I drilled and pushed into
  2. The fuel pump did solve the problem. Some of the other symptoms were caused by an intermittent vacuum leak on the lower portion of the oil filler tube (the end that goes into the engine). I tested for the vacuum leak with a homemade smoke machine.
  3. also, it is not uncommon to see multiple owner boxsters. this makes sense from a practicality standpoint. when a baby comes along; boxsters have to go.
  4. I would look at 2000 models and newer. The 97-99 have a 2.5 and different Bosch software than the latter years. Whichever route you go, you will want to perform the IMS replacement. I had never done a clutch replacement until I did mine. It was straightforward. One of the best aspects of owning a boxster is the infinite amount of online resources that cover just about anything that can go wrong. Keep looking! I would also recommend investing 30 bucks and buying a Durametric style USB cable from ebay. They have knock off versions from hong kong. I have one and it works good enough to r
  5. Update:After almost 2 months of downtime, I finally got the car back together last week (had several projects I was working on while it was down).In regards to the fuel system, I removed and tested all lines/rails/regulator, cleaned and rebuilt injectors, replaced fuel filter, replaced all crankcase vacuum lines/intake vacuum lines/sensor orings on block (knock, oil pressure, etc)/intake plenum boots/intake manifold gaskets.The car still runs lean. Through process of elimination, I have narrowed it down to the fuel pump. In correlation with what JFP in PA said, it now sometimes takes a long cr
  6. The "turret" is directly on top but there is also a line with a valve on it that is right next to the sending unit. What does this valve do?Update: I have the entire intake manifold off. I have removed all the lines between the two points I measured flow (filter, long line to bank 2 rail, fuel rails/connecting hose, and short return line under the regulator). The lines seem to all have slight restriction, but I don't think it is abnormal, because I see a couple of restrictor holes built into the fittings. I blew about 80PSI through them and no debris of any type came out. Tomorrow I plan o
  7. So is the regulator open or closed when no vacuum is on it? The engine is supposed to be off when measuring flow, correct? I replaced the regulator with a dealer ordered part last month... The old one had a broken screen on it when I pulled it out... It seems like the car briefly ran a little better, but since performance seems to fluctuate so much, it is hard to tell... Hmmm, Maybe blockage around the area?? I am pretty sure I accounted for all the pieces of the old regulator (orings, screen bits, etc.) But I am about to go check out this area well!!! What function does the valve that
  8. Just to verify... The engine should be off while measuring the flow, correct? I know the pressure regulator is not operating without vacuum...I am in the process of pulling the intake manifold, fuel rails, etc so I can track down this issue.I also have a new fuel pump and filter ordered to be on the safe side of things.Where are the likely places that a blockage might be besides the filter?I am under the impression that the fuel routes from the pump to the filter, then up the drivers side of the engine bay and around the back to Bank 1 (passenger) fuel rail, then across the front of the mot
  9. Update. I tested flow from connection before filter. It put over 1 L in 30 sec!!!!I went back and tested at the return line again and got about 275 ml again!!!Advice? Is there supposed to be loss in flow throughout the system or does this sound like a blockage? Thanks
  10. Less than 300 cm^3 in 30 seconds!!!!Fuel filter seems ok. I removed it and blew through it in direction of flow... I could blow steady through it. There was some restriction - I couldn't blow full force through it... I know this is a rudimentary way of testing it but its my best option at the moment...300 cm is a lot less than the nominal 850!!!! Bad pump? I collected from the return line under car. Thanks
  11. Thanks for the offer! I rented one from O'Reilly's this time, but plan on purchasing the next one, now that I have experience with the necessary valves. 70 miles south eh; I always enjoy hearing from some Porsche folks from Alabama! Thanks for all your help!
  12. Let's start with the fuel pressure. What you are describing (I cannot see the gauge in your video) is not normal. At idle, the car should have a steady pressure reading in the 3.3 +/- 0.2 bar, or 47.9 +/- 2.9 PSIG. You are nowhere near that pressure. A second critical fuel system test for these cars is delivery, or how much fuel volume is the pump putting out. In 30 seconds, your pump should deliver at least 850 cc of fuel. With the pressure you are describing, I’d be will to bet you are nowhere near that either. Something is obstructing the fuel flow. When was the last time the fuel fi
  13. Yes. Replaced the gas cap... Sometimes after it has been running poorly, There will be a long slow vacuum hiss when removing the gas cap. It lasts a long time compared to the usual "woosh" the pressurized system will normally make... Forgot to mention that... Thanks for your input!
  14. I have been dealing with fuel system issues now since day one. I purchased my 986 in November 2011. The very first day I heard a howl from the fuel filler area. For 6 months, I would occasionally hear the howl and also get a P0442 CEL for a minor evap leak. I read a bit about it during that time but never came to anything conclusive. It didn't affect performance, but I knew it would be something to be dealt with sooner than later. Turns out it was sooner... The past 7 months now I have been having major fuel system issues. I have researched everything I can think of including Diagnostics
  15. Hi, I have been performing the IMS bearing upgrade with the kit from Pelican Parts. I got the old bearing out with no issues. I cannot get the new bearing to fit all the way in though. It is still protruding about 5 mm or less. I removed a double-row bearing style, so the new one will be recessed into the shaft. I guess my question is what kind of beating can this bearing take while getting it in? It was frozen cold initially but has since warmed up. I read that the other end of the shaft pushes on the oil pump. I have stopped where I am because I am afraid I may damage somet
  16. Shudder as me then then I can tell you 100% it is not coming from tires/wheels/brakes or suspension. I would just live with that one unless it gets worse though. I would def start planning to replace the IMS bearing though. Do a search if you have not yet heard of this however I think that may just be impossible considering the insane amount of importance placed on it. If it fails which boxsters prone to this, you must replace the engine. Not fun for your wallet as Porsche motors are expensive and in high demand. Look into it just cause you should. Not because of your symptoms I recommend ge
  17. 2k model with same mileage and problems I have the exact same 3000 rpm shudder. My first thought, oh no!! IMS. So I jump on renntech to research and it seems like quite a common occurrence. Never really found a promising fix. Some said the motor mount like you tried, which i am planning on replacing soon, so I am disappointed to hear that did not work, however, let me tell you. In the 12k I've had the car, this shudder has not changed one bit. This leads me to think it is not really a problem as much as a minor annoyance. If it were an engine bearing or something internal it most certainly w
  18. Thanks Iogray You really helped me with a different post about the radio and ignition switch last week. I don't know if you followed up with that post but I finally solved that problem 2 nights ago. I (hesitantly) let a friend drive my car today and he stalled out on two different occasions. Neither time did the vehicle have any issues with it returning to proper idle. I guess fuse D1 may have something to do with this as well. This seems to correlate with your theory of an electrical issue. Ill post if it recurs again. Thanks again for all your help. You really know your stuff.
  19. If my 2.7 2000MY 986 stalls out, something gets thrown off and the engine will not stay cranked when restarting. Even revving it up high, it will putter out regardless of the throttle application. After a couple of seconds of a 2-3k rpm rev it returns to normal. This has happened twice in the past week. I think those were the only times I have stalled (just got the car, still getting used to the clutch!) but I cannot be certain. I just remember those occasions because of the difficulty to get going again. Thanks for the input!
  20. Fixed!!! sort of Finally got the whole upgraded steering lock assembly in yesterday and installed it last night. After 2 hrs in 32 F weather, the radio still did not function in sequence with the switch. At the end of my wits and ideas of the cause, I tediously scoured the wiring diagram and traced down a small fuse (D1 i believe) that had to do with the alarm and radio... I have checked the fuses a couple of times but being a 7.5A the fracture was almost invisible. In fact, I only realized it was blown when I replaced it for good measure and the radio was fixed! It took scrutiny under
  21. How well does the 2.7 motor/transaxle stand up to abuse? I do not plan on being abusive to it and generally take care of clutches etc, however I just purchased this vehicle and want to be able to skillfully drive it to its full potential if I so desire. Therefore, I have been "practicing" my shifts and starts (no hard launches!) fairly regularly for a few days. Mainly, I have been teaching myself how to shift as fast as possible, usually in 5-6k range but occasional 7k shift. How does the vehicle hold up to this. These habits will only be short term as I am already becoming satisfied with
  22. Lowering the vehicle will cause an even more negative camber. Aftermarket arms are available to allow adjustment where there are non from the factory or more adjustment if they are maxed out. The negative camber however contributes to the precise handling of the vehicle (not so much on the 4S but still some). Standing the wheels up straight will decrease handling. Arms are often required after lowering to keep camber from being too negative when maxed out but the high end products like the adjustable Bilsteins do better at maintaining the original geometry. My recommendation: Run Michel
  23. The Hankook is directional, meaning it is prone to "cupping" wear aka feathering. These are high and low spots between each tread block on the shoulders of the tire. Slight height differences spinning at high speeds on the road can cause this noise. I have seen cases so severe it replicates the symptoms of a failing wheel bearing. My advice is to go with a NON Directional tire. Michelin is by far the best manufacturer and have several options depending on size. Michelin will give the best tread life, ride comfort, and A/S traction. Cooper brand tires are also a good less expensive alterna
  24. New Question, Same Topic I tested voltage at radio on the orange wire. If what I have read is correct, this is the wire that links the radio to the ignition switch, and presumably turns the radio on/off with the car. At the radio terminal only 1.2-1.3 volts were being read at all times, ignition switch off and on. I tried to test it at the actual switch too, but the orange wire is the uppermost wire and i could not get the tester probe high enough behind the dash and see at the same time to test it at that connection without removing the ignition switch. What voltage should this wire hav
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