ciaka

I was looking for things to do to the CTT I own, and decided it will need a refresh of the door sill aluminum plates. Have one of these on each door, plus rear bumper skid pad and rear trunk like bottom edge. So had to repeat this on every plate I wanted to apply this to. Simple process: 1. Buy equipment - aluminum polish kit - Harbor Freight Tools - under $5 including tax (believe it was $3.99) - masking tape for taping off areas you do not want to touch (about $2) - general cleaner/degreaser to cleaning of the sills after job is done ( about $4) - corded drill (any will do, but cord drill will not discharge forcing you to wait - any self respecting man already has one) 2. Prep car - mask off each plate that you want to restore - Use exacto or other device to trim along plates for perfect coverage 3. Do the job - Apply polish compound to buffer - Slowly work one section at a time, pressing medium light, to medium pressure (slightly harder than pressure applied when buffing a car surface - remember, you are polishing scratches out) - continue to work small section at a time, for about 30 minutes total per plate - continue to apply more polish compound onto buffer when noticing compound not getting getting applied onto plates anymore when buffing - Wipe plate off to verify you achieved proper sheen and scratch removal (if not, continue, focusing on areas/scratches to remove) - When done, wipe clean and clean out entire sill area (polish compound peels off and gets thrown around the area - vacuum is best way to remove) 4. Repeat on every door sill plate you want this done to. 5. Inspect and enjoy the result of work

Symptom: CEL light comes on and when investigated, P0492 code (or similar) is detected. The following code description is observed in Durametric SW: Secondary Air Injection System Bank 2 - Value below lower limit value, test conditions are not-completed, fault is currently active and causing a DTC lightWhat is wrong:From my experience and from others' posts, this is usually caused by the failure of the secondary air pump that is located inside engine compartment (the two horn like structures on either side of the bay, near the firewall).The failure is apparently caused by the valve getting dirty and failing to open, which causes filter foam (you will see once you open this sucker out), to back up into the pump itself, causing fan blades to break off and plug up the hose even more.Once the fan blades are broken, the pump will need replacement.NOTE: If you choose to only replace the pump, please understand the cause of failure, since it may be likely you will have another failure. I did not think this would be the case until I removed the valve with hose and cleaned out a bunch of debris from there....so if you are servicing pump, you will do yourself a lot of good by cleaning the valve/hose at same time.Anyways, DIY is using pics, each successively numbered with instructions.Hope this helps someone make the repair.Plan on about 2-3 hours of work for this repair (1 pump), at nice leisurely pace. The other pump repair will be very similar, except pump part number will be different and location of mounts/screws will be on passenger side.Have fun. *** EDIT*** - I was gone for a while and all my pics had been removed from my tutorials. Regardless how it happened, here they are.