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Uwon

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Everything posted by Uwon

  1. Check coils for cracks. Plugs probably still OK. Clean intake. Change Water pump, AOS, belt, and idler wheels. Cheers, Johan
  2. '06 C2S. Just replaced my "4 narrow electrode" factory installed Bosch plugs with the equivelant "2 wide electrode" NKG. Is there any difference in performance and life? Thanks in advance. Cheers, Johan
  3. Pulled out my old ohm meter which turned out to be more accurate.than the new one. Coils read .4 and it made little difference in readings after being in the fridge for an hour and freezer an hour after that. Thanks for your help, Loren. Cheers, Johan
  4. OK, got the high powered magnifying glass and found the 1 and 15 labels. Any thoughts on the ohm readings at 24 degrees? On second thought, I'll put one in the fridge and report. Johan
  5. Hmm..... I presume that terminals 1 and 15 are the outer pins in the three prong plug receptacle. Right? All my coils measure .1-.2 ohms at about 24 degrees Celsius. Don't know what the effect is as a result of the temperature change. Also, my ohm meter may have a slight permanent offset. Thought? Thanks in advance. Johan
  6. Just changing the spark plugs on my '06 C2S so I thought that I should also check the resistance on the coils which are only 3 years old with about 30K miles. Searched the forum but can't find any info on the acceptable range. The Bentley manual does not have any info either. Would appreciate help on this. Thanks in advance. Cheers, Johan
  7. ^^^Yes, you are spot on! Not much elevation difference between the IMSB and the shallow sump. Just reinforces that the oil level should always be right up to the top (one bar down is not acceptable to me) as extra insurance. And 5w40 of course. Johan
  8. With reference to oil getting at the larger non-removable IMSB, see post #48 in http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/43715-clutch-aos-water-pump-thermostat-diy-questions/page-3?hl=uwon Hope this helps. Johan
  9. How long after the valve job were the valves re-adjusted? Johan
  10. Never heard if it before but I now understand the issue. Sounds like the wear is associated at least in part to the number of times the clutch is depressed. Interesting that in that I drove my 3.4 turbo converted Carrera over 250K miles including about 10-15 track days per year over a 13 year span, and I replaced the complete clutch once and only re-faced the disk a couple of times. Always enjoy reading your valued analysis and advise. Cheers, Johan
  11. JFP, thanks for your reply. I have experienced slippage and significant change in pedal travel with my other cars but never a harder pedal. Out of interest, would you be able to explain why the pedal gets harder as the clutch approaches its end of life. Thanks in advance. Johan
  12. JFP, car has 75k highway only miles, hardly any city driving, never tracked. Johan
  13. '06 C2S. Just flushed/bled brakes and clutch. Clutch pedal still engages at about. 2" from the floor. Is it on the way out? Thanks in advance. Cheers, Johan
  14. Had a similar issue finding the right plug with my C2S but I don't know if the transaxle is the same as your C4S. Perhaps this thread may help, starting at post #80 http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/43715-clutch-aos-water-pump-thermostat-diy-questions/page-3?hl=uwon Good luck. Johan
  15. Here is the actual link referred to above.. http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/44731-transmission-half-shaft-leak/?hl=uwon#entry241655 Don't forget to check the trani oil level while the panels are off. Good luck. Johan
  16. J- as you can see, there is great ongoing support. I tackled the clutch issue a couple of years ago and it was through this forum, no- that should read, because of the dedicated enthusiasts on this forum that I was able to successfully tackle the clutch issue in my garage. Just read the continuous ( and almost instant) guidance that I received from members such as loren, JfP and logray. http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/43715-clutch-aos-water-pump-thermostat-diy-questions/#entry234912 Cheers, Johan
  17. Please note that the 3.6 and 3.8 have different parts numbers. The Carrera S is cheaper than the 3.6 at Pelican. Go figure. Johan
  18. +1, been there-exactly same symptoms and solution. Johan
  19. RPM, are you saying that the 997.1 C2S has a different clutch than a "standard" C2? If so, is it still a dual mass type that cannot be resurfaced? j - 78,000 miles on my '06 C2S still going with the original clutch. Cheers, Johan
  20. Been there done that. You will need the household hairdryer, a milk crate to sit on and lots and lots of patience. Takle small areas one at a time. Gently heat the film and pick an edge, pull slowly, yes slowly, so the film does not rip ( or worse pull the paint off). It took me over three hours with lots of breaks to stretch those limbs to remove the stone guards and front end. I also raised the sides and front end to get to the lower portions. You will probably also need a clay/polish job to blend in the old and new. I had a slight impression left on the trunk from the top edge of the film so I made sure that the replacement film followed exactly the same line. Hope this helps. Johan
  21. I have the same issue with my 997-1. Told by the dealer it can't be turned off so you have to turn down the radio volume every time you start the car. What a pain! Johan
  22. Just an observation that if you are tracking your car you MUST use heat resistant paint and clearcoat to prevent discoloration and imminent blistering from heat such as VHT. Johan
  23. Unles the body was totally stripped you should be able to get an unmolested sample of the paint from the underside of the smugglers box door, any of the trunk or deck lid hinges, behind the door cards, underside of rear deck lid, behind the engine sound padding. BTW, my COA for my '78 build could not provide me with a build date which leads me to question the validity /accuracy af the whole COA program. You may just get what you already know-9999. Good luck with the restoration-it's a labor of love. Cheers, Johan
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