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Everything posted by violaGT3

  1. Ok Thanks! Dipped= Low, Bonnet= hood, Boot= trunk, bloke= me? = ) I would check the switch, if you can get ahold of the diagrams, check the signal leads from the switch at the relays, then you'll know if the relays are good too. Should be a quick and easy if all checks out the pull the light and check the car-mounted harness receiver for a popped out pin, and use an "electrical cleaner" spray on let fully air dry de-oxidizer, not WD-40. Cheers! P.S. don't rule out the switch One lead could be toast, out of place, just screwing with you for laughs.
  2. The only issue I would see is dependent upon your offset. If they are stock wheels you should be fine, less your car being tucked that is. HTH 295-30-19's
  3. If they just cut holes in them and it came out that clean where do I sign up. I like that look!
  4. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3196052 Oh God don't give a better pic of the front. There's just something about the way they get a little blocky on the sides of the fascia. It just contrasts with the contour of the car. Looks like someone took a 68 camaro front end and cut and pasted onto a Porsche with an import twist. But I say again dressed in black she's hot!
  5. Hi, not sure if it'll help you too much but I have brand new HID's on my Scion XB and I have seen them fail to light once or twice. Not sure why I replaced the old set after doing it only once and my buddy who took them said they work fine. I would have to say it's like the flourescents sometimes they just don't hit right and do not light the first time. I'd have to say you don't have much to worry about. The original set I had was used when I installed it. The second setup was new. Oh and to clear things up they are the OEM Audi A8 Ballasts. Which may be the same ones Porsche's use, no
  6. That is sexy! Looks Great. I am not a fan of the turbo looks, but that is nice. Maybe it cause I cannot see the fascia too clearly? Your suspension height is perfect for those 18's. Bravo!
  7. Hi my 2 cents goes like this, camber wear will normally wear out the inner 1/3rd of the tire 15-20% faster than less aggressive camber settings. If you are noticing the difference within 2-4,000 miles it sounds like you are toe'd in too much in the rear. A quick check on that is measure from like points on both rear tires from the front and the rear. There should be no more than 1/4" difference.
  8. I use NXT that you mentioned, I like it it goes on easy no mess and it lasts a good long time. Just for your knowledge I have tried all the rest, less zaino, and NXT gave the best results. More than like they stuff giving off the black ooz was black magic it is notorious for slinging too.
  9. There is a toned down version of kerosene avail. in some hardware stores Incl. HD that will neutralize the sticky properties of the tape temporarily. You would just pour some on the inner side of the sill and allow it to run along the taped area and use a thin plastic wedge to separate the pieces. It works clean and neat and you will not make a gooey mess. Or if you do it the rip way which is fun too. then you can use either kerosene or the adhesive remover to clean it up. GL Just for reference I have used this technique for many years to debadge many cars, remove pinstriping(heat gun
  10. I have seen mine do it before too. I am not sure what to make of it. I wonder if it related to the street parking setup that all my beamers and Mercs had in Germany. They did something like leaving the turnsignal on would light the apropriate sides signals as a identifier. It maybe that they have fog accessory bulbs that light up in the light area maybe the accessory bulb is out on one side. Try double checking what it is exactly that is lighting up and check the other side to see if it has the same thing that is not lit. Other than that I did not pay much attention to it when I noticed
  11. Well, the results are in and the engine is said to be perfectly fine! :D The tranny however is going to be replaced. Imagine Auto gave the car a test run and said that it should go as even if repair was attempted it would come too close to the cost of a replacement with a warranty. Oh yea they agreed that the clutch is gone. :rolleyes: Not bad I believe it is the original at 80k miles. So they are going are going to fix the RMS and some odds and ends and hopefully get my clutch pedal to lighten up a little. Then maybe I'll actually clean her up a bit and I can go out in public again with h
  12. A short digression... Well, back in the day, I had a 2003 350z Track model and my friend had a 2003 350z Touring model. My Track model had factory 12.75" rotors front and rear w/ Brembo 4/2 pot calipers while his Touring model had those sub 12" rotors w/ 2 pot sliding calipers. On our first DE, he had braking issues (heavy pad and fluid fade) while mine held up ok except for the uneven deposition I got on the rotors. I simply had my rotors turned to remove the deposition while he upgraded to a 13" Stoptech BBK. A few DE's later, hairline cracks started developing on my solid 12.75" rotors.
  13. Well it would figure as a toe to toe comparison with other cars Porsche has the most capable brakes I have seen less a $130k Merc. My 03' Stillen Altima 348WHP had the stock brakes, I believe they were 2 pot calipers and 12.5" rotors. I believe that is the same setup on a Chevy Astro??? I sold it due to it needing to have a intermediate shaft it would jump nearly 3 feet to the right and then catch and straighten out on a hard launch. Great car but not designed to have that much power. The only fair test for Porsche to be compared to is the Exotics and maybe a AMG or . . . . . a Vette. Ye
  14. Well I learned to use it back in the 80's. and I have used it eversince and not had one issue using it to clean out the brass powder and lube grease that will build up over time and allow free movement again. You simply spray it in break down the greasy build up and let the excess drip away, and then use graphite powder to lube the cylinder. Oddly enough my 76 X1/9 had it done to it somewhere in the early 90's and they do not have a problem. Are they/you using graphite powder to lube the lock afterwards? Oddly enough I used the same method on my 01 Passat and it has not failed me yet. . .
  15. No seriously do not take it to a dealer. That's like going to a dentist to have him brush your teeth. Below are addresses for ebay pages that have the switches for sale. 99% you do not need to replace the assembly, but it is an update to correct the known problem that you might want to do. Your call. If you were to do the updated replacement then you would have to replace the bracket assembly locking cylinder, and lastly the keys. But if you just want to repair the switch until the next failure then just get the appropriate part and replace it. This is the exact same part that fails on
  16. Hmm, I am assuming that by "if it's the switch, lube won't help" means that if the plastic switch is broken lube won't help. Hmm, good call but my suggestion was to attempt to alleviate any issues with the the switch if it is merely hanging up on debris. Like the one in my Passat does. I think this is a perfect example of "good info used poorly" It is not necessary to use the entire container of WD40(my apologies for not making that clear). Some people have a good general idea that a squirt or two in a cylinder with .002 cubic inches of volume might suffice and if in fact it was just hangi
  17. Hmmm, Sounds alot like the issue with my Passat, very common. I would use a little WD 40 in the ignotion cylinder, play with the key in there, then remove the key and give it a squirt or two rinse out. Leave it alone over night. It seems asd though the horn is letting you know that something inside the car is not right, much like the center console. HTH Also if the passenger door is not locking then use graphite powder in the door locks, from time to time I have to ust my key to open the door as my girlfriend keeps washing them and I noticed that sometimes the mechanical lock will open
  18. Hmmm, is the 2nd pop out under some kind of recall? How would one go about contactiing PAG? My C2 is a 99, it just turned 80kmiles, 6 speed, 2nd owner. Imagine Auto KCKS said that the tranny needed to be replaced. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I have an AM warranty, but apparently it will not cover the freight charges to get the tranny to USA?
  19. Tuscon huh, must be nice. I got caught off guard by a flash freeze coming home from the movies. I was driving on the interstate and all of a sudden I started hearing this grumbling sound. I rolled the window down, and slowly let off the gas, 2.5 360's later I was in the grassy gully of a median facing the wrong way watching tractor trailers, RVs, busses all in the left lane and coming at me doing 70mph. The girlfriend in the car with me got real quiet and just stayed there as she knows me well. It was at that point I decided I was going to go with all season tires on my car. Luckily an e
  20. Good luck with the speaker upgrade, it'll be fun. I thought about doing that but I opted to just build a box and install subs to see how I felt about the sound and it worked out great for me I just run all the bass through the subs and the plastic tweeters or as Porsche calls them speakers they do good for the mids and highs. My 99C2 has the odd sub units in the doors and they kind of sound decent if the car is not running other than that they are pointless they should of just put a standard speaker there.
  21. Nice pics I am not sure but I think mine would look like yours. It is being replaced now too. I did not have any issues with 1st, but 2nd kept wanting to pop out and it felt like it was not fully engaging. From time to time if not thinking about it would grind a little. Like it was only partially engaged and then when you release the clutch there was not enough gear to gear and it would torque grind. Here's to new trannies!
  22. Forget all that I say Bravo! 12,000 track miles, operating beyond the engines manufactured capacity. That is amazing pure and simple, I have not seen 12kmiles track racing and you don't want to know the failures I've had! This should not come as a surprise, but unless you're gonna break the engine down and inspect it after every race as the pro's do then you couldn't hope to know about it and I would have to say that even with an inspection you would not find it. :D
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