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bBunny

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Everything posted by bBunny

  1. bBunny
    I cant believe a Porsche Dealer Cannot print out a DME Ignition Range Report ? Back in September 2012, I was looking at an 06 997 coupe with low miles. I never got far into the hunt because I could never nail down answers to the litany of questions anyone would have including a PPI report. The Sales rep at that time was not customer friendly. Lo and behold, yesterday, I get an email from a "new" salesman inquiring if I still had interest in the car? Being inquisitive, I found my original notations and decided to explore. When I got to the request again about the Ignition Range Interrogation, I got this back from the service manager ; "Hello Phil, Thank you again for your interest in our 2006 Porsche 911. Unfortunately, we are unable to print out the information, so we are showing it to you in hand written form. The ECU data did not show any beneficial information. This will show over revs from ranges 1-6. Please let me know what you think! Sincerely, " This can't be legit. Maybe the office printer died yesterday, but something ain't right here? Perhaps this is why a perfectly good 06 has been sitting for 265 days ? Opinions please. Many thanks
  2. bBunny
    If you experience major pressure sucking in, it usually means you AOS ( air, oil separator ) is on the way out ( indicated by volumes of white smoke blasting out of both tail pipes), You are not hurting anything at this point except the environment . The part(s) are cheap- $150+. The removal and subsequent new install is a pain. 5 hour labor probably more depending on what else you find once you're up in there.
  3. bBunny
    Yup, they are a pain sometimes. I've had success using a small screw driver blade to assist in unlatching the bottom under side clasp which is a pain to get at unless you partially remove the box so you can get at it easier. OR- If you have the correct screw/slot driver head it may be easier to just remove the 2 bolts and take out the entire unit and then remove the clasp.
  4. bBunny
    under Links > Documentation would be logical if they're in the cloud? What years are covered if I may ask?
  5. bBunny
    Hey there. You mention having 18's with 225 up front and 285 in back. That probably means for NB (narrow body) 225/40R 18 ET 50 285/35 ZR18 ET 63 You already have a correct setting for rim/ tire/ offset. Why are you wanting to "push" the equation farther away from the correct axis? Porsche engineers everything for very specific reasons especially tires, rims and relationship to the chassis and road. You've got 8 inches of rubber upfront which is plenty . Presuming your running 35 aspect ratio on rears you've got close to 11" of rubber. Inserting spacers will likely push you right up against both front and rear fenders creating problems you don't want as well as stressing the bearings and ride control on non lowered cars. there are ample threads regarding wheel and tire aspect ratios that are worth the read. bBunny
  6. bBunny
    Thanks for reply. I'm hoping that's the case. I'll do the pump housing and water pump. It would be nice to be done with fixing for awhile:-)
  7. bBunny
    I'm wondering if it wouldn't be smarter to tear down my MY00 996 C2 coupe RWD, 6MT now and have a reputable shop rebuild it instead of continuing to fix issues as they come up? Car has 96,000 on it. Current crate motor has 51,000. There is nothing major wrong now. I'm up against a cracked oil pump housing fix that is a bit of a pain. But the cost and time to get at it makes me wonder if having Jason ( ufo motorsports ) shouldn't just rebuild it. Over the last year, I've done coolant tank, hoses, plugs, and a blown coil issue that seems solved for now. Car is running perfectly except for the small coolant leak from the housing. No oil in water, no water in oil, oil pressure at 1.5 at idle and 3.8 at speed. Temp never moves off the 0 ( 180 ). Engine is dry, no leaks. Presuming crank, heads etc are all fine, I have an excellent core right now. If I wait until a major issue occurs, then I have a major costly rebuild or a lost car. Yes I know it's a catch 22, but opinions are valid. I've floated my situation to Duane ( vision motorsports ) Brian ( einmalig ) and Jason ( ufo motorsports ). Everyone has a different opinion and a dollar cost obviously. Unless I can find a reputable shop closer to Florida, I think SoCal is the logical place to shop for solution. Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
  8. bBunny
    Thank you guys. Pics would be great. Any idea why this part would develop a tiny straight line crack dead in the middle? Its not load bearing . Bad casting? 13 year old car ...parts just naturally wearing out?
  9. bBunny
    Found a small spotting of coolant dead center of engine at rear under cats and in front of pulleys . Thought it was water pump related, but turns out its the part that the coolant drain plug is cast into. Picture attached should help identify this. What is this pump housing part called? For now we JB welded it. Hopefully this patch will hold until the correct piece is located along with a new water pump probably since I'll be in there. As always, much appreciated for the help. Phil B
  10. bBunny
    Here's the update on this issue. Maybe it will be of use for others. Your suggestion to do a pressure test at temp was spot on. The tank was also a culprit as well as the failed cap (00). Figuring that the tanks was the original, we got the correct tank ( 147- not the 157 designation ) and also changed out the hoses. During the test we also found a single drop of coolant on the water pump housing inlet/outlet? It was perfectly straight. We think it's a failed seam on the metal? Thoughts please. For now we re sealed it with JB Weld, let is cure overnight and all seems well. Even though Robert supposedly vacumed the top off after refilling close to 2 gallons of coolant, The tank was about an inch or so down when I got home today? I've let the car cool, removed the cap and re topped it with distilled water. A thourough inspection underneath reveal a dry car all around ? Only thing I can figure is Porsche is like BMW with trapped air after working on RADS etc. My old 535 wheesl had to be elevated about 2 feet in the air to burp the system. As always, help is greatly appreciated.
  11. bBunny
    Need help here. My 2000 996 coupe RWD, 6MT has a weird coolant drip issue that seems to heal itself. Last week after taking the car out for a brief run, I noticed a coolant drip hitting the dirver side exhaust tip. Knowing that this is the prime indicator of a coolant tank issue, I took the car over to my techs. The car cooled down, and showed NO signs of a leak anywhere? After a visual and finally a pressure test of the system, we came to the conclusion that the cap was the problem ( old cap ending in 00 ). We got a new cap the following day, topped off the tank, re checked and went on to other things on the squawk list. Today, after bringing her back out for another fun run, I again noticed a coolant leak, somewhat more pronounced coming down from just behind the driver side rear wheel inside housing. ( spot was about a foot in diameter, meaning maybe a cup of coolant leak? ). So again, I cooled the car down, and amazingly, no more leak? The temp guage sits spliting the 8/0 always and had only moved to splitting the 0 on the way back home. I pulled the cap and the tank is flush full of nice green coolant. I'm perplexed at this point. I live in Florida, so heat is always a concern, but our temps right now are really mild and the car isn't showing any typical signs of stress from the usual culprits? Help always appreciated. Yes, I know search is my friend, but this issue is just weird.
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