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Everything posted by krazyk

  1. I know this is an older post but I also stay on the look out for alternatives for other filter choices for our 996's. Awhile back I had been checking at the local Autozone and looked at the STP brand. They were made in China of course and I was a little worried about using them. I Was looking again tonight and when I looked at the various brands, much to my surprise the STP part# S8278 is now made in GERMANY!!! So I bought one to try it. The bad news is the price has went up to $13.99. You can sometimes get a special IIRC.
  2. Sorry Im late to this but I never use metal tools for work like this. Keep a set of these handy. There are many jobs they can be used for while working on your Porsche and they wont easily scratch it like a screw driver. Their perfect for CI and they wont scratch peoples cars. $15 at Auto Zone.
  3. Not you, sorry. Many others gave me giref about "debri" on another forum for my theories. I appreciate and read everything here you guys post. I think Jake is careful to say too much about his research but I hope he goes into detail in his new book.
  4. IRRC, the pumps are different because the tanks are different. They certainly have different part numbers. Even the return system is different. A shop should have known better. C2 is on the left, C4/C4S is on the right. #4 is the pump.
  5. After researching everything I could possibly find about IMSB issues, my theory behind not using seals at all is because of a few known facts: It seems every IMSB that has been inspected has had oil go through the seals into the tube. Oil allowed to freely (no seals) go through, in, and out of the bearing as engine conditions change (oil level, temp, etc.) cant possibly harm the bearing but will in fact keep it better lubed. Sealing the tube with an expansion plug still poses the risk of creating differences in pressure. Sealing the tube by using the bearing seal on the tube side only is completely useless because hot oil will compromise that single seal just as it does the dual sealed version. The seals are designed to protect against dust and dirt not hot oil. Alleged debri protection afforded by the seal(s) is a baseless argument because LNE doesnt use a seal on the flywheel side anyway. You are certainly correct. Its each owners choice to decide. I would like to hear anyones theory as to why the tube must be plugged.
  6. I certainly understand where Jakes coming from but does everyone realize that the OEM SR bearing is indeed an "off the shelf" $12 bearing. Some seem to last and some dont. Those that dont can usually be explained. I would imagine installing the OEM type SR bearing without the seals would work just fine. I decided to install a Bocca CH SR bearing without the seals. When I drop the engine again later this year, I will check this bearing and probably replace it with the US made CH. If one chooses to look and do the research, there are many "off the shelf" CH SR bearings that far exceed the specs of the OEM SR bearing. If I remember correctly the LNE bearing is made by Timken.
  7. The bearing install is easy but one of the most important things is qualifing the engine for retrofit in the first place. Im currently working on sourcing another USA made single row ceramic hybrid bearing at a much lower cost than the LNE bearing kit. I have learned people are very touchy about this subject and resist any new input.
  8. Hi, Firefly. Good thread but some of the info is wrong. The OEM Porsche SR bearing has two seals. To me its just common sense. These seals were never meant to keep hot oil out. They should have never been installed in the first place. I took the simple approach of no seals to allow oil to freely move in,out, and through the bearing. I recently dropped the engine for some other things but left my unsealed experimental ceramic hybrid bearing alone. I think I will drop the engine again later this year or maybe next year then remove and inspect the unsealed CH bearing. Theres some great threads about the bearing theories. BTW, hope your engine project is going well. You sound like a great DIY'er.
  9. JFP, you are exactly right. When I posted "use the best oil" I was indeed referring to JG DT40 and Jakes 6 month/5000 mile schedule. Common sense dictates that this alone may prevent many problems for the M96. Dont know why that seems to bother so many Porsche owners.
  10. Actually thats a little off for PM. At a minumum you should: Use the best oil and change it 6 months/5000 miles. The Porsche maint schedule is laughable. I know the usual things, IMSB, etc, I was referring more to internal upgrades to make the engine more reliable. Better rods, rod bolts, liners, pistons, head studs, etc. I think Jake is finally going to reveal his exact method to bullet proof the M96.
  11. No bellows on the 2003. The part is very different. Having recently done this on my 2003, I dropped the engine and trans. I also had a few other things to do but I and others will tell you its so much easier to replace if you remove the engine on a 3.6 car. Its also a good time to replace the coolant tank, hoses, and several other things.
  12. I know JR's book is due out in a few months and I hope he includes some of the best things the M96 owner can do to increase reliability. Without going into the MOF's or CEF's list I would like to see at least a "top 10" list or something.
  13. Recently I dropped my engine/trans to replace the AOS/OVS, oil filler tube, seals, hoses, etc. and found that some of the 996 parts are NLA and being replaced with 997 parts. For instance just FYI the main right side coolant hose is now a 997 part and you have to get the o-ring type flange with it (see photos). The oil filler tube is also now a 997 part number. At least it makes the coolant hoses look more modern I guess. Anyway just a heads up. Im sure there's still some old stock parts at some dealers but it looks like their trying to move us on to some of the 997 parts that can be made to interchange.
  14. Deadeye, its easy to extrapolate info from an OEM bearing to see where its sourced and the complete specs. JFP, what do you think about replacing other bearings in the 996 with ceramic hybrids? For instance, I found a CH pilot bearing, etc. Would changing the wheel bearings and others to CH versions just be overkill? If the CH claims are true it would be the last time you replace that particular bearng.
  15. Eric, if your willing to do that much work just to install the IMSG, why don't you do the IMSB retrofit since there are many options now?
  16. Got all the parts rounded up for my budget RMS / IMSB retrofit job. Took all the specs and info available on the OEM, LNE, and Casper Ceramic Hybrid bearings. I checked with several bearing companies and distributors and sourced one from Imre's suggested company. The CH bearing with Pelican ret bolt/stud is next to the OEM type bearing. I ordered two RMS's just in case I botch one, pilot bearing, Sachs clutch kit, all new bolts/fasteners, Guibo disc, and cam plugs. Not in the pics is the Loctite sealant and special green. I have the trans out and the engine locked, ready for extraction of old IMSB. I want to verify engine oil level when full and make the final decision about removing the seals from the new CH IMSB bearing. After reading each companies arguments for and against seals, plugging tube, etc., I think I will remove both seals and not plug tube. The freeze plug in the tube method just bothers me. If it came dislodged it could destroy the bearing. My theory is that with an unsealed bearing and tube, oil can flow in and out of the bearing and tube with the least amount of problems as speed and temp varies. I will run this for awhile until I drop the engine later this year for cleaning, detailing, and oil-vapor-sep change (just because of age). Please post any thoughts, comments, etc. as I use every ones info that I can find since Im a n00b on the M96.03. You can even call me names if you want (Alp & SP). LOL.
  17. Logray, I found where they do state that the bearing in the LNE retrofit kit is a $100 ceramic hybrid bearing, which answers my question. Your mostly paying for the flange, other misc. parts, and R&D. Thanks.
  18. The flange "improvements" are probably referring to improvements over the older flange design with the inferior seal. The single rows should all have the newer flange design unless Im mistaken. If it makes you feel better paying $600 for a bearing retrofit, thats fine. I just took IMRe's research and applied it to my single row. I dont know how LNE's price breaks down but I assume the "updated" flange accounts for roughly $150 leaving the rest for a CH bearing, ret. stud, and misc. parts. $450 is not even close to the price of a Timken bearing, even a customized one. So I would think they are expecting you to pay the "Porche Tax" or for their R&D costs, which I understand since they are a business. But, dont publish all the details about how you developed the bearing specs and not expect people to extrapolate where and how you sourced the bearings for your retrofit kit. Again no disrespect to JR, LNE, Casper, or Pelican, thanks to all these guys for what they have done. Im just a cheap @#$%!@# out of necessity. Also I and many others like to figure things out. Remember Porsche told JR you couldnt replace the bearing but he did it. So dont tell me I cant find the bearing your using in your kits.
  19. If I had to guess, I would think the OEM broken retaining bolt/studs seen were the result of a failing bearing rather than a broken ret. bolt/stud causing the bearing to fail. Do you guys think a Ceramic Hybrid with a working temp of 250 degrees is fine? I would assume this limit is for the seals health and not the bearing itself. It may not be an issue as I plan to remove the seals anyway. Ideally I want oil to be able to go through both ways and not ever be "trapped" on the other side if the front seal starts to fail. Im not sure you guys get one Im trying to do. I will not be using the cheapo Pelican bearing. Im only using their HD ret bolt/stud, seals, snap ring, etc. from their kit. Im using a ceramic hybrid 6204 2RS $75 bearing with similar specs as the LNE Timken. There is nothing special about LNE's other than a few things they optioned with Timken. Most major bearing manufactures will let you customize a few aspects of their CH bearings. I read the details about LNE's and get what they did. They did not build the bearing, they had Timken customize a few of the things about it. Hope this all makes sense. Im not cutting any corners on parts. Im paying $0 for labor. As always thanks to all you guys for a great technical forum.
  20. Logray and JFP, I appreciate the opinions of those who actually wrench than the "must go to dealer" guys. So you agree with plugging the tube or oil allowed in and out causes no balance, drag, capacity, or other problems? I simply refuse to pay $3500 for the "solution" under the premise we are too dumb to install the parts and must have it installed at an "approved" shop. Seriously, a bushing and oil line? Complicated install? No disrespect to JR as I think hes fantastic and a great business man. Im perfectly fine with doing an IMSB with every clutch.
  21. Thanks JFP. I had ordered the RMS and Porsche tool anyway and will replace it, along with clutch kit. Im trying to narrow down which CH bearing to use in place of the included Pelican one from their kit. I know I will be using a CH 6204 series bearing but you think having an open design (no seals on either side) would allow the best flow of oil. I want to prevent any trapped on the tube side and would think that no seals would be better than sealed on one side. I have also seen where some are now plugging the tube. What do you or others think?
  22. I wasn't motivated to get up early today so I pulled the trans this afternoon. This is how bad it looked which kind of surprised me because I had no oil on shop floor where car stays parked. Anyway, any thoughts? Most of the other parts will be here next week. A really odd thing is the two clutch cylinder bolts were finger tight. The car had the trans mount replaced at dealers expense after my PPI revealed a bad trans mount. The bad part is the work was done by a top Indy with a great rep. Guess even the experts forget to tighten bolts sometimes. Anyway, looking at pic; Some RMS and some IMS or mostly IMS leaking?
  23. Hi all. I purchased the Pelican $165 IMSB retrofit kit. It includes the cheaper $12 sealed OEM type bearing. I would like to try something a little different. I decided to use a CH bearing with the Pelican kit. I have heard both arguments for open (LNE) vs. sealed (Casper) but does anyone really know? Both are $45 bearings which makes it absurd to pay $300 to $600 for either. Im not dissing any of the versions including Pelicans but I think the bulk of the pricing is from the other parts of the kits, not the bearings which are not expensive at all. LNE thinks the CH gets enough oil to survive while Casper (and Porsche) believe in the permanent grease sealed theory.Do you guys really think there is enough oil hitting the "open" bearing. What about potential contamination hitting a ball?Do the theories even matter if this is a 40K mileage item? To me the ideal kit would be the Pelican retaining stud, nut, updated flange seal, snap ring, oil seal, with the $45 bearing for @$100 total. Offer a kit for single and one for dual thereby making the kits cheaper.Almost all my parts are here. Any thoughts before I tackle this mess on mine? I know the IMS thing gets old but I have read numerous techinical discussions and theories here. I respect everyones opinion and appreciate any discussion. My intention is to do a budget friendly IMSB retrofit (not including the cost of the clutch kit, RMS, etc. stuff) just to see if the off the shelf ceramic hybrid bearings are as good as the Casper/LNE ones.
  24. I hate to say this but if you ruled out an electrical misfire and fuel misfire, that only leaves: a compression misfire. You really need to do the suggested compression test. The equipment is not expensive and performing the test is not hard. Can you post a photo of #6 plug? All you need is a helper, remove all plugs, kill power to coils, remove air cleaner, manually keep intake butterfly wide open, crank engine sufficient number of times for each cylinder, record and compare results. Nothing to it.
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