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jrolstin
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I have these on my Cayenne! The hats are completely rusted after 1 Canadian winter and the rotors are pulsing from hot-spotting causing cementite due to alloy impurities... Good value though..... lol
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Did you close the rear latch switch while keeping the rear hatch open to test? You have to simulate that the rear hatch is closed. Use a screw driver and make sure it is in the secondary position (fully closed simulation) and then test the wiper. Not very common for the motor to be the issue... I have seen the actual mechanical pivot point be very gummed up and stiff. If the motor doesn't work, are you getting voltage at the fuse?
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I have the same issue on an 04 S. Will try the throttle reset and see if it improves as suggested. Regards, Jonathon
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I have the same issue with a 2004 cayenne S, wondering if you ever solved this problem? Thanks
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Hi mudman2. I have already installed a new valve body. The details of what I have done so far are in my original post.Thanks
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Thanks for the quick reply. My next problem is I can't access my units electronically to determine what I need... Nothing seems to communicate when using durametric. Is there a particular version which works better? Also, did you replace the TCU yourself? Did you have to reprogram anything or just plug and play? I have a 2004 cayenne s if that helps. Thanks
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Hey guys, So my hids are always on no matter what my switch is doing. The switch only seems to control the dash lights, off on and auto. Also when I turn the fogs on they work properly but I thought it was supposed to light the fronts up green and the rear yellow (on the switch) I think only one comes on or both as just yellow. The switch didn't seem to be working. So I took the switch out and took it apart and didn't see anything apparent with it. Anyone have similar issues with headlight switching etc not working properly?? Thanks
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Hi guys, I have a 2004 Cayenne S and have had shifting problems since I bought used a few months ago. My symptoms are: when cold, 1-2 up shift is a huge jerk / lunge (no clunk though). Downshifting from 3-2 awful clunking. It's as if revs are not matching properly? Even when I shift in manual mode (downshifting, driving sporty) it seems engine doesn't blip, it just slides into gear and works the torque converter. So far I have done a fluid and filter change and valve body change. Then I reset tip adaptation and the cold 1-2 problem went away for a while. After I did the valve body it seemed to shift better but the problem still exists. It is a valve body from revmax torque converters. My question is now, what is next? I've read about TCU and DME, but would love someone more experienced to chime in and help get me turned in the right direction. Finally, I have durametric, but it doesn't seem to be able to communicate with DME or Tiptronic trans. I thought I was able to at one point and it seems flakey every time I use it - any thoughts on that? Regards,
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I posted earlier stating the same symptoms, but want to update. I feel my driving vibration (which sounds like bearing noise) while decelerating. It is most prominent at around 90kph, but I also feel it but much less when on accelerator (inputting load to drivetrain). If I can get it so the drivetrain is neutrally loaded (ie enough output from engine to mitigate rolling resistance - maintaining speed) then the vibration is not present. If the vehicle is decelerating and I shift it to neutral, it is still decelerating but no engine braking, the vibration is still present. IE shifting to neutral doesn't make a difference for me. I inspected my Cardan shaft and other bushings with the same outcome as the original poster. They all seem fine from what I can tell. Anyone have similar problems and have found solutions? Regards
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I have the exact same issue with my 2005 S. Exactly the same symptoms. I have not had much time to diagnose yet, as have lots of other things planned for a general service in the next couple of weeks. Will follow this thread closely, Please let me know if you find the culprit.