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jmj996

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About jmj996

  • Rank
    Contributing Member
  • Birthday 07/13/1973

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    jmjeci
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    johnathon.jones

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

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  • From
    Stockholm, Sweden
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    1999 996 Cab since 2004
    1986 951 2008 to present
  • Future cars
    The best EV I can get. Or maybe, if a really good EV conversion becomes available, I'll convert the 951 to an EV.
  • Former cars
    1999 Boxster 2002-2006

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  1. 119k on a 20-yr old car implies that it was not exactly a daily driver. If you don't have any history on it, assume that at some point in its life, it sat for weeks at a time - possibly longer. Hopefully you'll have a good mechanic advising you on this. They won't really know the condition of the bearing unless they remove that outer plate and take a look. The condition of the outer seal is not the end of the discussion. It could have been replaced in conjunction with a clutch replacement. The condition of the seal on the bearing itself is your first step to determining if the bearing is still viable, and even then, you don't really know unless you pop off the bearing seal (which is irreversible), so it's a catch-22. My mechanic removes the bearing seal on all Porsche engines with an IMS and relies on engine oil lubrication, and he says he's never had a failure. He's been working on these engines since the 996 was first being raced in the late 90's. They should also change the water pump as preventive maintenance if you have no maintenance history on it. A water pump failure is a disaster in these cars because the impeller is plastic and it gets chewed up against the block because when the water pump bearing fails, the axis of the pump shaft is no longer perpendicular to the block. The result is that little bits of plastic end up getting circulated through the coolant system as it's failing, which results in these bits entering the cylinder heads and sometimes getting caught in the small passages, creating hot spots that crack the head. Good luck!
  2. Lost the code and had to change the battery - please help. On a trip, and not having a radio is hurting! It's a CDR-220, and the serial number from the display is 25015588. Thanks!
  3. I've been experiencing these codes for a while too. I have new pre-CAT O2 sensors (within the last year anyway) and I can hear the pump coming on, so that doesn't appear to be the problem, but it occurred to me as I read your post that your codes appear to take much longer to come back than mine. Since everything else seems to check out, I wonder if you're experiencing intermittent pump relay problems? On my 951, when my headlight relay started to go out, it would work sometimes, and not others. It went on for over a year this way before it finally created a real problem for me and I tracked down the source of it. An interimittently-functioning relay would make reproducing the problem on demand very difficult.
  4. Koni FSD's (just now available for the 996) from Paragon Products are on the way. I decided not to buy replacement springs yet, I'm going to install these and measure everything per the factory manual. I will probably also swap the LR and RR springs (assuming they are identical) to see if that has an impact. Really looking forward to driving the car with these. I have great highways for the daily commute, but the last five minutes to my house off the highway is just ridiculous (that's just Naples - it's like that here). Also, the salesperson said he had an opportunity to test drive cars with these at a Koni factory test center. One of the interesting aspects he mentioned is that cars fitted with FSD shocks/struts did not kick in the PASM as much as the cars that had factory struts & shocks, seeming to validate that these allow the car to keep a better handle on the road. Probably not a good solution for the track because you wouldn't always know exactly how the car is going to react at the limit, but they seem ideal for a daily driver. From the web site: ----------------------- Frequency Selective Damping The first shock absorber offering superior road-holding without compromising comfort. Koni introduces FSD, the first no-compromise shock absorber in the world. A revolutionary new technique which combines the benefits of firm and comfortable suspension in a single perfect shock absorber. Firm for sporty driving on even road surfaces. Comfortable for a smooth ride on uneven road surfaces. Realizing the seemingly impossible! Two characteristics that seemed diametrically- opposed, proved to be a source of inspiration for specialists from KONI. Following lengthy development and testing, the ultimate solution was reached: KONI FSD - Frequency Selective Damping. A revolutionary new technique whereby the benefits of both types of ride characteristics are combined in one perfect shock absorber. Banishing the disadvantages of the past. FSD shock absorbers; a smart suspension system adjusting automatically to road conditions as well as driving style. And all of this in a fraction of a second. FSD guarantees greater stability, greater control and thus greater driving pleasure.
  5. I run spacers with the longer lug bolts as well. I can't attest to how much of an impact it makes with any real data, but I do want to add something that I learned from a dealer, because I don't see this written about the use of spacers very much: I was told that the reason there is so much space between the outer edge of the wheel and the fender lip, as the car comes from the factory, is to allow for the use of factory snow chains (look them up - they're available from Porsche as a factory accessory). The extra space doesn't have anything to do with any perfect engineering scenario, it's about allowing the space necessary to use the chains, so before the spacer-haters start chiming in I want to throw that out. Text from a Porsche snow chain product available online: Special low-profile design with fine-link chain for minimal adhesion of ice and snow, these chains are easy to fit. Note: Cannot be fitted to vehicles with spacers. Seems to provide further clarification that the spacing from the factory is simply to allow for snow chains.
  6. This sounds like the kind of thing I would do, so I wouldn't shy away from that at all. If the factory transmission doesn't even hold up for 100k miles, why have it fixed or replace it with one exactly like it? It would be very expensive and is obviously not that strong (or maybe it had a previous owner that couldn't drive a stick very well). I would also spend a few more $$ and upgrade like this owner did. I'm at around 55k right now. Don't have any issues with the tranny at all, but I have had head seals replaced at around 38k miles, the clutch, RMS and IMS replaced at 45k, and the RMS was replaced twice before that by a previous owner. The third RMS change wasn't actually necessary. I just ordered the parts because I was having the clutch replaced anyway and wasn't sure if the RMS was the revised version (or installed with the revised tool, I don't remember what was revised). The dealer said the existing RMS actually wasn't bad, just sweating a little bit of oil that probably wouldn't even show up on the ground. There are other common repairs that shouldn't concern you - window regulators, coolant tank, radio, seat belt parts, etc. I'm curious if the rear struts have been changed on that car yet. At 55k miles, my left rear sags AND feels fishy, like a bad strut, and I've read (though I cannot speak for the accuracy of the sources) that the one-sided sagging is not uncommon. Measure the rear fender heights on each side to get a rough idea.
  7. I'd like to do this too. There are Audi's everywhere here and the LED lights add a very significant presence. I'd think the only place for these is in the lower left & right openings - perhaps a horizontal strip of LED's in the middle.
  8. You might be experiencing a problem with the interior sensors faulting and setting off the alarm - that was the case with my 99 Boxster that was going off in the middle of the night at least once a week. The dealer advised me to double-click (hold...release.hold...) the lock/alarm - what this does is lock the car, but only set the alarm on the doors, disabling any interior sensors. When you correctly double-click the alarm, you will hear a single honk from the alarm horn. Once I started doing this, the alarm never went off on its own anymore.
  9. Is that dealer close to you? I'd bet that the dealer who replaced the water pump will top it off for you for free - one because they swapped the pump, but two, to probably try to establish some good will and make you a customer. Beautiful car! Good luck with it!
  10. How much time/how many miles have you given it? I have found that some tires, especially softer compounds, need a 'break-in' period to match the characteristics of the used tire. I know your other tire wasn't used much, but it was certainly past the break-in period. One way to know if the traction is substantially different is to force the ABS to kick in. See if it kicks in on the used tire before it kicks in on the new tire. Also, check the serial numbers on both tires and see if the manufacturing date was substantially different (don't recall exactly, but I think the last four numbers correlate to the year and month of manufacture). The tires could actually be significantly different, even if they are the same manufacturer/model.
  11. You'll love it. I'm a closet geek - so I love this thing. Check out my post here http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=30198 I'm already out of the geek closet. Switched to IS/IT work years ago, forgoing a reputation I spent all my college years building. Oh well. Got the Durametric in this week and started playing on Thanksgiving. Pretty easy stuff, though I have codes P1123 and P1125 and for some reason the Durametric does not have the text for code P1123, had to come here to get that. Regarding the air bag light - confirmed that I have the same issue as this thread, I have BOTH the 45 and 48 codes for the seat belts. Looks like I have some cleaning to do... 9X6 Airbag Selected About to get fault codes moduleType = AirbagB05 DTC Count = 2 Fault Number:48 Description:Belt buckle passenger DTC Count = 2 Fault Number:45 Description:Belt buckle driver
  12. I checked their web site. Though they have a 'race' wheel section, it just appears to be a product line name, not a true application category. Most of their stuff looks kind of 'blingy', not like serious performance folks, more like serious 'pimp your ride' folks. You should be looking for LIGHT, cheap (read: easily replaceable) and proven wheels for your track days - and I would even suggest looking more closely at 17" wheels for a few reasons - tires are cheaper and you're less likely to ruin a wheel in the event of a rough curbing event. There are plenty of good used (and attractively priced) Porsche OEM 17" and 18" wheels out there on eBay and Craigslist that would suit your needs - especially the hollow spoke wheels (though those are 18" 's). You can't get better than this for track days on a 996 unless you spend big $$$$ for true performance wheels.
  13. As far as I know, you cannot. The reason is that Porsche has already configured the alarm to beep once in certain circumstances - the one described above (where something is left open - in my case I have heard it when I haven't fully closed the front trunk, etc.), and the other situation I'm aware of is when you intentionally disarm the interior motion sensors. In order to intentionally disarm the interior motion sensors, you have to double-click the alarm (hold...lift.hold...) or alternatively using the key in the door, turn...center.turn.... This still sets the alarm for the doors, but inactivates the interior motion sensors, and the Porsche alarm provides you with confirmation of this by honking the horn once (at least on a 1999). I also owned a 1999 Boxster, and it exhibited exactly the same behavior. I had to begin using this feature on our Boxster because the alarm would go off in the middle of the night once every couple weeks. It really pissed off the neighbors. Finally, inactivating the interior motion sensor took care of that problem.
  14. I'm really sorry to hear that. I plan to keep my 99c2cab for the long term, and from all the stories I read on Rennlist I feel like I am bound to run into something like this someday. But at least I feel that if I put a new (updated) Porsche engine in it, I should be in great shape from then on. Do you trust the tire shop? Any chance they took it for a joyride? You should have a mechanic examine the log in the computer to see if anyone redlined it. I strongly recommend that you do not try to start the engine again - unless you can pull the plugs and crank it over first. If you do have coolant leaking into one of the cylinders, you could damage internal engine parts very quickly because coolant will not compress like air. Also, if you can pull the plugs on the left bank, you might see one that looks very different. If so, then you know a teardown is in order, and then most likely a replacement engine.
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