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jmj996

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Everything posted by jmj996

  1. 119k on a 20-yr old car implies that it was not exactly a daily driver. If you don't have any history on it, assume that at some point in its life, it sat for weeks at a time - possibly longer. Hopefully you'll have a good mechanic advising you on this. They won't really know the condition of the bearing unless they remove that outer plate and take a look. The condition of the outer seal is not the end of the discussion. It could have been replaced in conjunction with a clutch replacement. The condition of the seal on the bearing itself is your first step to determining if the
  2. Lost the code and had to change the battery - please help. On a trip, and not having a radio is hurting! It's a CDR-220, and the serial number from the display is 25015588. Thanks!
  3. I've been experiencing these codes for a while too. I have new pre-CAT O2 sensors (within the last year anyway) and I can hear the pump coming on, so that doesn't appear to be the problem, but it occurred to me as I read your post that your codes appear to take much longer to come back than mine. Since everything else seems to check out, I wonder if you're experiencing intermittent pump relay problems? On my 951, when my headlight relay started to go out, it would work sometimes, and not others. It went on for over a year this way before it finally created a real problem for me and I tracked
  4. Koni FSD's (just now available for the 996) from Paragon Products are on the way. I decided not to buy replacement springs yet, I'm going to install these and measure everything per the factory manual. I will probably also swap the LR and RR springs (assuming they are identical) to see if that has an impact. Really looking forward to driving the car with these. I have great highways for the daily commute, but the last five minutes to my house off the highway is just ridiculous (that's just Naples - it's like that here). Also, the salesperson said he had an opportunity to test drive cars w
  5. I run spacers with the longer lug bolts as well. I can't attest to how much of an impact it makes with any real data, but I do want to add something that I learned from a dealer, because I don't see this written about the use of spacers very much: I was told that the reason there is so much space between the outer edge of the wheel and the fender lip, as the car comes from the factory, is to allow for the use of factory snow chains (look them up - they're available from Porsche as a factory accessory). The extra space doesn't have anything to do with any perfect engineering scenario, it's ab
  6. This sounds like the kind of thing I would do, so I wouldn't shy away from that at all. If the factory transmission doesn't even hold up for 100k miles, why have it fixed or replace it with one exactly like it? It would be very expensive and is obviously not that strong (or maybe it had a previous owner that couldn't drive a stick very well). I would also spend a few more $$ and upgrade like this owner did. I'm at around 55k right now. Don't have any issues with the tranny at all, but I have had head seals replaced at around 38k miles, the clutch, RMS and IMS replaced at 45k, and the RMS
  7. I'd like to do this too. There are Audi's everywhere here and the LED lights add a very significant presence. I'd think the only place for these is in the lower left & right openings - perhaps a horizontal strip of LED's in the middle.
  8. You might be experiencing a problem with the interior sensors faulting and setting off the alarm - that was the case with my 99 Boxster that was going off in the middle of the night at least once a week. The dealer advised me to double-click (hold...release.hold...) the lock/alarm - what this does is lock the car, but only set the alarm on the doors, disabling any interior sensors. When you correctly double-click the alarm, you will hear a single honk from the alarm horn. Once I started doing this, the alarm never went off on its own anymore.
  9. Is that dealer close to you? I'd bet that the dealer who replaced the water pump will top it off for you for free - one because they swapped the pump, but two, to probably try to establish some good will and make you a customer. Beautiful car! Good luck with it!
  10. How much time/how many miles have you given it? I have found that some tires, especially softer compounds, need a 'break-in' period to match the characteristics of the used tire. I know your other tire wasn't used much, but it was certainly past the break-in period. One way to know if the traction is substantially different is to force the ABS to kick in. See if it kicks in on the used tire before it kicks in on the new tire. Also, check the serial numbers on both tires and see if the manufacturing date was substantially different (don't recall exactly, but I think the last four numbers c
  11. You'll love it. I'm a closet geek - so I love this thing. Check out my post here http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=30198 I'm already out of the geek closet. Switched to IS/IT work years ago, forgoing a reputation I spent all my college years building. Oh well. Got the Durametric in this week and started playing on Thanksgiving. Pretty easy stuff, though I have codes P1123 and P1125 and for some reason the Durametric does not have the text for code P1123, had to come here to get that. Regarding the air bag light - confirmed that I have the same issue as this thre
  12. I checked their web site. Though they have a 'race' wheel section, it just appears to be a product line name, not a true application category. Most of their stuff looks kind of 'blingy', not like serious performance folks, more like serious 'pimp your ride' folks. You should be looking for LIGHT, cheap (read: easily replaceable) and proven wheels for your track days - and I would even suggest looking more closely at 17" wheels for a few reasons - tires are cheaper and you're less likely to ruin a wheel in the event of a rough curbing event. There are plenty of good used (and attractively
  13. As far as I know, you cannot. The reason is that Porsche has already configured the alarm to beep once in certain circumstances - the one described above (where something is left open - in my case I have heard it when I haven't fully closed the front trunk, etc.), and the other situation I'm aware of is when you intentionally disarm the interior motion sensors. In order to intentionally disarm the interior motion sensors, you have to double-click the alarm (hold...lift.hold...) or alternatively using the key in the door, turn...center.turn.... This still sets the alarm for the doors, but i
  14. I'm really sorry to hear that. I plan to keep my 99c2cab for the long term, and from all the stories I read on Rennlist I feel like I am bound to run into something like this someday. But at least I feel that if I put a new (updated) Porsche engine in it, I should be in great shape from then on. Do you trust the tire shop? Any chance they took it for a joyride? You should have a mechanic examine the log in the computer to see if anyone redlined it. I strongly recommend that you do not try to start the engine again - unless you can pull the plugs and crank it over first. If you do have
  15. Not sure about your tire sizes as I have 17" wheels, but from your description, it sounds like it's an alignment issue. You have a type of alignment used for track/DE events - either little or no toe-in. See if you can measure your toe-in yourself and start from there. At those speeds, you will want more front downforce as well - for your comfort level, at least get a GT3 spoiler lip or swap out the entire front bumper cover for a GT3 or aftermarket bumper cover.
  16. You could do just about anything here - it depends on how far you want to go. I actually installed a Porsche (Becker) CDR-220 from the 986/996 series into my 1986 951, and I have Infinity speakers (component up front, 2-way in the rear) plus a subwoofer in the back powered by an AMP that's installed under the dash on the passenger side. This is not a very special or aggressive setup, it's pretty vanilla. Really nice to have an updated, yet clean factory look with the Porsche head unit, but still get the CD player, Auxiliary input (which I use to attach an iPod via headphone jack cable) and
  17. I'm curious if the European spec 996's originally came with the Mobil1 0W-40 recommended as NA spec cars do. Wish I had read this thread earlier. Found a great deal on Mobil1 0W-40 at a military exchange a few months ago and stocked up on two oil changes worth of oil. But where I live now, I think I should have gone with 5W-40 at a minimum. Only 56k on the engine, so hopefully 0W-40 is fine for now.
  18. Good topic. I have the airbag light right now as well (as well as a CEL that I need to diagnose), just ordered the Durametric.
  19. I was in EXACTLY your position just over a year ago. Began with a stock 1986 with 132k miles, and have DE'd it heavily. You picked an AWESOME car to go DE'ing. Suspension Recommendation: Ground Control - http://www.ground-control.com/. They have the best-priced adjustable (rebound and compression) race-level, adjustable-height strut and shock packages I found. They're customized so that you can lower the front without experiencing bump steer, and have a few little extras that nobody else has, such as a special rear eccentric bolt that allows you to lower the rear even more than the stock
  20. I have to agree that struts affect ride height, which is why I was focusing on that. I also believe that shocks affect ride height. I have very little experience to back that up, but when I replaced a set of relatively new KYB's with a set of race-grade Koni's on the rear of my 86 951 last fall, the rear height went up almost 1/2"!! On this car, the ride-height effect of a rear shock is magnified because it's a torsion bar setup, not an a-arm setup, and the mounting point for the shock is between the suspension pivot point and the rear wheel, not AT the rear wheel. Fortunately I was able t
  21. Is it really possible that one rear spring has degraded that much in ten years versus the other rear spring? Is this more common than just with the two cars being discussed here? Or is it possible that measuring the vehicle height at the top of the rear fender wells is not a valid measurement point?
  22. I never finally replied to this thread because I never got around to truly fixing the problem until this year, I just threw the hardtop on and put off the resolution. I had to use the tool that PTEC described above, and once I manually operated it up and down once, that took care of the problem. Next I will regrease the screw as Izzy suggested, don't want this to happen again.
  23. I don't mean to hijack your thread, but I have exactly the same issue on my 1999 996 cab and perhaps we can both benefit from the same expert replies and discuss each of our solutions as they are implemented. First, some basics on the car: 52k miles. Standard suspension - standard everything (though I have already added the GT3 front bumper cover for more front downforce, GT3 side skirts, and a Strosek Level 1 rear wing). This car has been tracked three times, and one time I unfortunately caught a sharp inner curb at around 65 mph on a left-hander that jacked the driver's side wheels so har
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