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Hi all: My 6 speed 01S has 160K miles on it. The transmission seems to work perfectly. It shifts smoothly, etc. The clutch was replaced at 125K. Today, when I drove the car into the indie shop, the folks though they heard a rattle noise from the rear perhaps related to the exhaust. The shop put the car up on a lift and the noise seemed be coming from the transmission. The noise goes away when the clutch pedal is depressed and returns when the clutch engages. Any ideas as to what might be going on? Thanks
Hi everyone: The Park light on the instrument cluster lights up when I turn on the ignition and it goes out after the engine starts. The problem is that it doesn't light up after I pull up on the parking brake. The convertible top works normally. I've replaced the parking brake sensor, the micro switch next to the convertible top latch and the dual convertible top control relay. I've used a multi-meter to test voltages in the relay sockets and all seem normal. So I'm looking for new ideas. As I said the Park light comes on with the key; it doesn't with the parking brake Thanks
My situation was different. I had the key and only had to replace the head. No cutting of a new key blank was involved. My point was that other computers than Porsche ones can program keys. PS: If a dealer charges more than 1 hour labor to cut and program a key, it would be stealing money out of your pocket. Total job is less than 30 minutes.
My indie was able to program a new key using his Autologic tool. Of the two codes needed to program the key, the shop did need to get the car code from a dealer. I've kept a copy of the car doce for future reference. BTW: It takes 15 monutes or less to program the key.
This is a complete guess. I assume you mean the clamshell behind the convertibel top. If so, I guessing that you have a bad sensor that thinks everything is closed when its not. Try searching on 'adjusting the convertible top lid" See picture from shop manual
JFP's advice is spot on. I'd suggest takikng the car to an AC shop. You'll spend at least what the shop charges in buying the necessary equipment and materials to evacuate, flush and recharge the system if you do it yourself.
If it's not the headlight switch, then my best guess is that you have a loose connection where the unit plugs into the socket on the tower.
Perhaps you have a bad leveling sensor or the plug / wiring to one of them is broken. Is fo, the car might think it's tilted. I had an independent reinstall a sensor backwards and the lights would not move up or down. PS: If you have a durametric cable, you can 1) get the fault code and 2) activate the lights into the up/level/down positions. If they move, then, I say its a sensor.
German Wotor Works @ Holly St and El Camino Real
I don't have an answer for you other than to suggest this. If you have a Durametric cable or know someone that has one, use it to identify the fault codes in the locking system. There are probably a ton of them stored so do this. Bring up the codes and write them down. Next clear them. Then recycle the loxks and see what new codes appear. Without the codes, it just guessing. I suspect you have a faulty sensor somewhere. My own car acted like it possessed until I replaced the passenger door lock unit. It would do crazy things like unlock and lock itself when I was driving down the street.
The red light on the locking switch on the center console can stay lighted if one of the door lock sensors is broken. You need one of the diagnostic tools JFP mentioned to figure out which lock is causing the problem.
Do you hear the sound with the AC and fan completely off? Bit of a grasping at straw here, but wondering if you're hearing refrigerant passing through the expansion valve or evaporator.
No real idea what to do...so here's another no cost, minimal time guess. I would try two other things before taking the door cover off. One, I'd try pulling the inner door handle like you were getting out of the car. Two, I would try locking and unlocking the doors using the center console switch.