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Hilux2400

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Everything posted by Hilux2400

  1. I don't know if it's like the 996 release wire: http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/376-opening-a-996-when-the-battery-is-flat/ Hope it works.
  2. I had suspension noise that I traced to drop links. Following the advice of others here I replaced all four. However, I get creaks and groans mainly after dry weather and when travelling at low speed. I get a temporary cure by spraying the rubber bushes and spring mounts with silicone lubricant. I can't find anything that's loose. I did think the upper spring bearing might have dried out, so last week I took the strut out on the RHS, but it was not really short of grease and showed no signs of corrosion.
  3. Well you are £2,500 up on the deal so enjoy the car and stop worrying. Keep the tracker and dash cam and don't mess about with them. All cars go wrong at some time. If it has a decent service history you might get two years of trouble free motoring. If you are worried get an independent check done for £300 so you know what might go wrong. Find a good independent Porsche expert to do your servicing. Battery would be a likely problem at this age so stick a new one in and the biggest you can get in the hole. Don't bother with a Porsche battery, there are plenty of other good makes with 4/5 year warranty. People are just too worried about warranties. Learn to inspect the car and learn to do a few things yourself. Surprisingly, there are many things on these cars that are easy to fix and it will give you more confidence in ownership.
  4. A power kill switch does not always kill total power to the vehicle. It is sometimes fitted with a fused bridge of 10 or 15 amps. The reason for this is that when the kill switch is in the off position low current items, such as an alarm, cigar socket, internal lights or parking lights, will continue to work as the current passes through the bridge. However, if an attempt to start the car is made when the kill switch is off the low current fuse will blow as it has insufficient capacity to energise the starter. I have had a battery fail completely, but not for the last 30 years or more. It went completely dead and would not accept a charge and it was a fairly new battery in my father's car. So it does happen, but I have not heard of it in more recent times. H
  5. With 18" wheels all round, a front tyres of 225/40 would match a back tyre of 285/30 so that they have a rolling circumference that is a close match. You can check for the correct tyres sizes in your handbook. There's quite a bit of interesting stuff there and on the inside of the fuel filler cap cover The 285X30 has a profile height of 85.50mm and the 225X40 a profile height of 90mm making them a close rolling match. You have 285X35 on the back with a profile height of 99.75mm which is about 10mm bigger in radius (20mm in dia) than the front tyre. It's a start in your investigation. When I bought my C2 996 it had both the wrong width wheels with the wrong offsets and the wrong tyres. There's a lot of it about.
  6. I was easier to drop the engine slightly, but it was a job that was being done at the same time as a new coolant reservoir and the extra space was needed. Replace the oil filler hose at the same time as the AOS.
  7. Try this: http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/376-opening-a-996-when-the-battery-is-flat/ It's sometimes easier from the back. H
  8. I admire your tenacity. This must have been a nightmare job. Sometimes with this sort of problem it is possible to get thread bite by pulling the bolt out and turning it so that it grips the next secure thread. I notice you tried to do this with a pliers, which is very hard to do when the head of the lug bolt is within a wheel recess. I have heard of someone in a similar situation using epoxy to attach a socket to the head of the lug bolt and then pulling the lug bolt back to try and get thread purchase. From that position it might be possible to unscrew it. However, having got it out you still had to replace the flange.
  9. For current (Amps) readings multi meters have a fuse inside that allows a reading of up to about 10amps. That's why you change the leads to the amps holes so the power goes through the fuse. When you have finished doing your battery drain test remember to put the leads on the multi meter back to their normal position for voltage and resistance readings. If you don't put them back, the next time you take a voltage reading on a battery it will blow the fuse and you will have to open the meter and replace it.
  10. I had a similar problem on a different vehicle some years back. It would start OK when cold, but when hot it would not always turn the starter. Not even the click of the starter solenoid. I had the starter motor checked and it was OK. I finally tracked this problem to the low current wire to the starter solenoid. At its end it had a female spade connector. When it was getting hot from engine heat it was expanding and losing its clench on the male spade on the starter solenoid housing. As a result it was not transmitting a voltage to the starter solenoid when the starter switch was activated. I think I would now try and find out if the low current wire to the solenoid is properly connected and ensure that it is not broken within the insulation and that it has a good solid connection to the solenoid post. You might even consider replacing the last foot or so of wire. H
  11. Thanks Loren - I should have looked harder. It's good to know there is nothing missing from the cabin filter box. I thought there might have been a cover or some sort of surround. I'm OK with the air cleaner, it's just that I was wondering what was inside the box within the air filter which is held in with three screws. Great site. I wish more people would contribute. H
  12. 996 - 2003 Coupe Model Carrera 2 Tip Please could you help in showing me a diagram of both the cabin filter holder and the air box internal parts. I have just been replacing the filters and there are two questions that I have: 1. What's inside the box within the top half of the air box which it held down with three screws? It's the box that is connected to the smaller pipe that runs towards the throttle body. Is there anything inside that needs maintenance? 2. Should there be a cover of some sort to secure the cabin filter within its holder. I can see that there is a clip on one side of the cabin filter holder but when I pull it across to lock it over he edge of the filter over it does not hold anything down. At present the filter is just held in by pressure from the foam surround. I either have the wrong filter or there is a part missing from the car. I can make something with a zip (cable) ties as a temporary fix, but I would like to solve the mystery. Thanks for reading. H
  13. Things that are left unused for a long period sometimes don't work as they should when re-connected. What is the voltage reading from the battery and does it drop when you try and turn the key to energise the starter? As Ashai said it could be the clutch switch. Depress the clutch a few times and operate the starter switch a few times, it might clean up the contacts.
  14. New drop links reduced some of the noise on my 996. Something that I found very effective was to spray silicon lubricant on the rubber suspension bushes. Mine used to creak until I did this.
  15. That's really good advice - thank you for your reply. However, in the meantime I have taken the wheels to a different shop and they balanced up as normal with very few weights. Did it this morning. What took more time was getting the adhesive off the rims which I did with white spirit and a sharpened plastic wedge.
  16. I have just put some new 285 30 18's on the back my 996 and the fitter said he had to add quite a few weights, too many in my view, as the wheels rims were not running true. I could see that when turning on the machine there was a deviation in rim position. This showed up on both wheels. I was surprised as I cannot recall hitting anything since the last tyre change, when balancing did not require many weights. I didn't take the car to the fitting shop, just the rear wheels. When I got home I checked the wheels when they were back on the car and both the outer and inner rim on both wheels run true, with hardly any noticeable deviation. I checked the wheels with a fixed pointer mounted on a block. I reckon the machine in the fitting shop is running out of line, but they assured me it's OK. I think I will take the wheels back and get them to run another check. I might even take it to a different shop, but I have traded in the same place for many years and they are a good family business. Has anyone else had a tyre fitting problem like this? H
  17. In one of my sheds we keep apples through the winter. I keep two mouse traps in the shed baited with peanut butter and chocolate. Since November 2014 I have caught 30 mice. My all time record is 35. I might beat it this year. Time for you to get a mouse trap, I think. H
  18. I would take out the bulb and check it. It's a single filament 21w. Clean up the contacts and put it back. If that doesn't work disconnect the multi plug for the light cluster and spray in some contact cleaner on both parts. If that doesn't work check for a signal 12v signal down the wire using a meter. If that doesn't solve it start chasing the wire for a signal. H
  19. You might find that either the passenger glove box or the central glove box is not closing properly and making contact. Open and close them a few times and even slam them shut. If they are used infrequently the contacts might be dirty and some action might free them up. H
  20. The coolant reservoir cap would be a good start. It's a cheap fix. Mine looked Ok but it was leaking when under pressure. . If it's leaking even slightly the car will run at a higher temperature as a result of pressure loss in the system. H
  21. This is what has foxed me. I can't match the code to the symptoms. The exhaust looks as if it's an original part and there are no after CAT wires hanging about looking for a home, from what I can see so far. Furthermore, the exhaust smells OK and the car passes its emission test (UK MOT annual testing). I will just keep looking to see what turns up. I am reluctant to spend a lot of money on the project as it's a very low value car. Thanks you for your replies and if I eventually fix the problem I will let you know. H
  22. Thanks for the replies. You are right it was 0420, from memory, as there is only one sensor which is pre-cat. I can't find any exhaust leaks on the manifold side of the single sensor.
  23. I am posting on this page as a site member, although the fault relates to a different vehicle that we own and I am searching for an answer. It all started with a cam sensor code and I detected a continuity fault which I have fixed. This was soon followed by an Oxygen sensor code. The car is a year 2000 Toyota with a 1000cc engine done 90k miles. It has a single Oxygen sensor before the CAT. The code says faulty sensor. On erasing the code it generally returns within about 40 miles. The car idles well, but just a little too slowly at about 600. It's smoother at 650/700. I have changed the 02 sensor twice to make sure the first changeover was not faulty. The fault returned. There are no exhaust leaks between the sensor and the exhaust manifold. I have cleaned both the mass air flow sensor and the throttle body. I have changed the air filter. I cannot find any vacuum leaks. Fuel consumption is very good. Engine monitoring says the car is not ready for testing, even after a new 02 sensor and the engine up to temp. A voltage is being detected from the 02 sensor. Spark intensity is good so are the plugs. I have not yet done a compression check and I am beginning to suspect a leaking inlet valve. It passes its emission tests at annual testing time. Any pointers gratefully received? H
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