Jump to content
×
×

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Brainz006

Contributing Members
  • Content Count

    67
  • Donations

    $0.00 
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

8 Neutral

About Brainz006

  • Rank
    Contributing Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Profile Fields

  • From
    Houston, TX
  • Porsche Club
    No
  • Present cars
    BMW M-Coupe
  • Future cars
    Cayenne Turbo

Recent Profile Visitors

616 profile views
  1. Other than the valve bodies and the front seal, these transmissions seem pretty robust. Usually a fluid refresh (with correct leve), new VB, and/or [worst case] front seal replacement will get them shifting well again. There are surprising few reports of the transmissions dying and requiring a full rebuild. Hope you got it sorted. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  2. I'm having a little trouble following the exact situation, but it sounds like you are low on fluid by at least a quart. You'll lose drive in the trans if there's not enough fluid, so getting the level right is step one. Do a drain and refill and tell us how many quarts/litres you take out and put in. That alone may fix the problem. Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
  3. Did you replace the entire pump, or just the o-ring? I did the latter once with an EBay kit and the o-ring fit was poor. I replaced the o-ring with one from bagpipingandy and it fixed it. The computer looks to see if there’s a tank pressure increase on startup. If not enough, then you get the error. It’s likely the pump or the line to the tank, and most likely where it comes out of the pump. Try spraying the pump and lines with soapy water and then doing the start routine. Check for bubble indicating a leak. Careful, don’t accidentally run over yourself. Good luck. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  4. I suppose it depends, but I’ve always found new ball joints to be quite stiff. Aftermarket part? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  5. Looking at your photo again, I'd say adding additional grease is somewhat optional. It added a lot of extra time to get the right grease. For an outer joint, seems maybe worth it, but the inner would seem to have an easier life. I seem to recall (but it's been a while and was a different car) that the next easiest repair was to buy a reman'd half shaft and bolt it in. YMMV. Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
  6. One of my other cars got a small puncture in the boot from road debris and started spewing grease similar to yours. I injected some extra CV grease into the boot using a needle on a grease gun. Then I cleaned up the boot with rags and isopropyl alcohol. Finally, I dabbed a coating of Black Gasket Maker (similar to RTV) over the hole - - all the autoparts stores should carry it. Knock on wood, it's held for over a year. On my car it was an outer boot, so I positioned the car to just the right spot and turned the wheel outwards so that the area I needed to cover had the accordion expanded around the punctured area - - I'm not sure if you can do that on an inner boot without unbolting the CV (or if it's necessary), but it definitely helped and was needed for an outside boot that flexes a lot. Good luck. Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
  7. The drilling instructions are on the papers that come with the kit — not sure if they’re available online. The hard part is not drilling the plate, but separating the VB halves w/o losing all the little bits. Work slowly in a clean, well-lit environment, and pay attention. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  8. Air suspension workshop message is often related to a failing piston ring on the air pump and often indicates that the pump is having to work too hard to raise the system pressure (and/or change ride height). I'm not sure why it seems to also be temperature dependent, but it's probably thermal expansion related. I bought a cheap eBay kit which didn't work (piston ring was slightly too small), and then found another vendor that sold a more expensive, but better made kit which, along with a full cleaning of the pump on the bench, fixed my issue. There's a lot of threads and videos on this repair as it's a common problem amongst a lot of European cars with air suspension. If you've not done this maintenance, I'd put it on the list to potentially get rid of that error message. The parts were around $40 and it took an hour or two to overhaul the pump from start to finish. Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
  9. If it's at the very back by the firewall and on the driver's (left) side, it could also be one of the coolant tees or a hose. It's not fun/easy to work back there but it's doable, particularly with remote hose clamp pliers. If your coolant pipes have not been done, it's a good time to do them as many of the same parts need to come off the top of the engine to reach either location. Also consider replacing the plastic tees with new aluminum ones from JagsThatRun. Search here and Rennlist for all the details. Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
  10. I’d plug the fuses back in and keep driving/refilling it to see what happens before spending more money. It’s possible that your issue is now solved after you changed the purge valve — the purge value is suspect #1 with post-refueling issues. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  11. My purge valve would stick open when warm. Using a set of jumper leads, I tested the valve with a 12V battery starting from cold. It was initially closed, and then after a few cycles with the battery it would stick open. This intermittent failure may also contribute to the car running fine again after sitting overnight. You could crimp the vacuum line prior to refilling, and that should eliminate your stumble (assuming its the PV that's leaking). But you will throw a CEL after a few minutes because the sensor that's looking for vacuum on the evap system won't find it thanks to your crimped hose. Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
  12. While your battery was likely part of the original issue (with multiple codes), your voltage (and lack of weird codes) suggests it's fine. Battery now seems like a red herring. What you are describing sounds like purge valve. Google P0441 Cayenne and you'll see that most roads lead to replacing the PV. Usually the hard running is immediately after filling up - - mine (CTT) would crank for a long time and then be stumbly for a minute, and then clear up. It sounds like yours is non-turbo, which may manifest differently (but similar). As I understand the issue/system, what happens is that when you fill up, fuel gets sucked into the tank evap system and is eventually sucked into the intake (as unmetered vapors that cause the engine to run rough). The purge valve is supposed to block the vapors (closed) from being pulled into the intake at idle and low speeds and causing poor running. But when you're cruising, the PV will open and pull a vacuum on the fuel evap system. There is a sensor that measures the vacuum on the evap system. By clamping the intake hose, you will trip that sensor. If you let the car sit overnight (or keep driving) , the fuel in the evap system will evaporate and your problem will go away until you refill again. You need to test the PV as Lewis suggests above. Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
  13. Plugging/clamping the intake side rubber hose that connects to the purge valve might give you a positive result and would suggest/confirm a failed purge valve (which essentially allows a vacuum leak through the gas tank). You can also use a soft rubber vacuum cap with a tiny hole drilled in it (0.5mm) to choke the amount of vacuum allowed through the valve. The cap can easily be installed on the intake side valve nipple, and then reinstall the rubber intake hose over both the cap and nipple. While this fix will help a failed purge valve, the car will generally run more smoothly if you just replace the valve. Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
  14. There is a small amount of overlap with doing the purge valve and with plugs and coils. But probably only 10 mins overlap. If the condition of the plugs is unknown, it's relatively cheap to replace them and takes about 2 hours, most of which is spent on the right side of the engine). But if the car is running fine (no rough idle, no hiccups or stuttering under acceleration, no codes) then you might not want to mess with it until you notice an issue (or run up a bunch of miles that would otherwise warrant a change). Don't fix it if it's not broken. Coils definitely matter, and can cause problems, but given their expense, I personally won't replace them unless they're visually cracked, are throwing a code on a cylinder, or I've already exhausted all other suspects (namely vacuum leaks, including the purge valve). My recent experience also suggests that stuttering under acceleration can also be coils. Doing the plugs is a good way to check for cracked coils. Top tip: if you find any that are cracked whilst doing the plugs, reinstall the cracked coils on the left-hand cylinder bank and mark them with a paint pen. That way you can order replacements and quickly swap them, as the left side is much easier/faster to work on than the left side - - probably less than a half hour the second time around. Good luck. Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
  15. You need to replace the purge valve for the evap system. It's about $100 part, if I recall, and isn't terribly difficult to replace. It's located to the right of the throttle body when looking from the front of the engine bay. The hardest part is the connection at the back of the engine - - the rubber hose will be stuck tight. Search is your friend. It's a valve with a 2 foot long plastic pipe that runs under the plastic valve cover cap. In the interim, to get the engine started after filling up, hold down the gas pedal to the floor and it will start quicker until you replace the valve. You can also use a soft rubber vacuum cap with a tiny hole drilled in it (0.5mm) to choke the amount of vacuum allowed through the valve. This will make the car start w/o issue and is a cheap [temporary] fix. If it throws a code, the hole is too small, if it still is hard to start the hole is too big. The cap can easily be installed on the intake side valve nipple, and then reinstall the rubber intake hose over both the cap and nipple. While this fix will work, the car will generally eun more smoothly if you just replace the valve. Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.