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SpawnyWhippet

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Everything posted by SpawnyWhippet

  1. SpawnyWhippet
    Turns out I had 2 problems - noisy water pump and noisy SAI, producing almost exactly the same kind of whining noise. I rebuilt and greased the SAI bearings and replaced the water pump and all is well now. If it changes with revs, I doubt it's the SAI pump. However, while we are on the subject of SAI, I have codes p0491, and p0492 that reoccur. These are secondary air injection bank 1 and bank 2. I'm thinking about replacing every hose + the reservoir. Looks like you can access all of that if you remove the intake plenums? Any other ideas? It's strange in that I only get the codes when it's above freezing. I've been able to clear the codes, and not have them come back until the temp reaches about 34º on a few different occasions, so I don't think it's a coincidence.
  2. SpawnyWhippet
    I replaced the water pump and the variable pitched whining disappeared. However the SAI motor bearings were also noisy at engine startup, so I stripped it down and greased them. No strange noises from the engine bay now. If it changes with revs, I doubt it's the SAI pump.
  3. SpawnyWhippet
    Wow, that was a much easier fix than expected. 7 screws, 10 mins start to finish. Now my light goes off when the glove box is closed and my battery is not draining. Incidentally, my stealership quoted $1400 to repair the clutch pedal switch (wiring had been bypassed), cabrio roof latch, rear brake pads, oil change and glove box light. I did the whole lot in under 1 hour using $190 of genuine Porsche parts. Quite a markup they are making... Now what should I spend that $1200 saving on?
  4. SpawnyWhippet
    OK, engine is running at the moment, has been going still noisy and rattlyabout 10 mins, camshaft deviations are 0.30 and 0.06 degrees. After 10 mins, all the rattling stopped and the engine started running very smoothly. Cam deviation didn't change in Durametric though. Thanks very much for the advice JFP, I was 20 secs away from getting it towed to a specialist who likely would have charged me like a wounded bull!!
  5. SpawnyWhippet
    I tried submerging them in oil and pumping them prior to fitting, but they were extremely stiff to pump and I doubt very much ended up inside. Most of the oil ended up on me as I fitted them. Is that vibrating also normal with unfilled tensioners?
  6. SpawnyWhippet
    I removed the tensioners, flywheel, IMS flange and IMS bearing c -clip in order to replace the IMS bearing, then discovered it couldn't be done on my engine which was a factory re-man with later IMS bearing. After putting it back together, refilling with oil and trying a test run, I got a rattle a few seconds after startup. I immediately shut down the motor to prevent possible damage. Is this anything to worry about, or will this awful noise go after the tensioners fill with oil? I was more concerned because the motor started to vibrate a lot more when the noise started. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iQxTScPNPjQ
  7. SpawnyWhippet
    No, I just removed the transmission as I was going to change the IMS bearing. However, thanks to input from Ahsai and JFP in PA we found that my engine is a later factory re-man unit and it cannot be changed. If the top hose clamp had been installed 90 degrees around the hose, the whole job (excluding trans removal) would have taken less than 60 mins. All of those hose clamps are tricky, but the worst are those 'squeeze and pull' hose connectors on the end of the rigid plastic pipes. I can never get those things off, I always end up using picks to try and release the locking tabs.
  8. SpawnyWhippet
    I just replaced the AOS while I had my transmission out on my 2004 4S. Did everything from below, but the top hose clamp was an absolute bear to remove, due to the angle it had been attached (the position of hose clamp ears would not allow access to any tools to open it). I struggled with that one clamp for more than an hour, even with the cable operated hose clamp pliers. In the end, I had to use penetrating fluid and rotate the hose around the AOS connection with pliers so I could get tools to the clamp. Access was very poor. For the refitting of the new AOS, I used masking tape to stick the rear bolt, socket and extension piece in position on the AOS prior to locating it in the engine as it is tough to get tools and bolts in that hole. I tightened the bolt up then removed the tape and pulled the tools out.
  9. SpawnyWhippet
    Thanks for the advice. By "removing the IMS bearing rear seal", are you referring to the black seal at the forward end of the IMS that I can see now that the IMS flange is removed, or is there another behind that? Should I apply any grease after removing the seal, or would that just get washed straight into the engine oil? There was only maybe 1/2 fl oz or 20ml of oil behind the IMS flange when I removed it, as there was nowhere for it to be retained, it all drained out in the slot in the engine case that the c-clip falls into when you remove it from the retaining groove.
  10. SpawnyWhippet
    $1500 was for the bearing, LN tool kit and other tools I needed, seals, bolts etc. I have a new AOS to install with the transmission out, that's about the only saving grace here. The most annoying thing about this is that I checked my engine number was a M96 before I started, as I knew the M97 engines were not serviceable. Calling Pelican now to see if they can take the IMS bearing back. Clutch, RMS etc were replaced only 10k miles ago by the previous owner. I wondered why they hadn't done the IMS then, now I know... Learned a new thing - if there is a AT in the engine number, don't try to change the... :censored: IMS bearing
  11. SpawnyWhippet
    Its 22mm. Does this mean I just wasted more than a week+$1500 pulling all this apart and now have to put it back together again with the old part in place?
  12. SpawnyWhippet
    The engine number says a M96, there is no record of the engine being replaced. I can also wiggle the whole shaft around - it is not bearing play, If this turns out to be a M97, I am going to cry. I spent about 20 hours and more than $1500 in parts and tools already getting to this point...
  13. SpawnyWhippet
    Fixed the images above - there had been spaces in the file name and that was breaking the links
  14. SpawnyWhippet
    I managed to get the crank locking pin in place, just, it was right up against the holes and a really tight squeeze. Did that before pulling the tensioners out. I now removed the IMS flange and realized that the old c clip holding the bearing in place is about 15mm wider diameter than the replacement one in the LN kit, and the old bearing itself looks 15mm larger than the new one. Is this just a shell / seal and the actual bearing in a smaller diameter shaft behind it?
  15. SpawnyWhippet
    Came at it with a fresh head after a night of sleep and got the cam tool into place after just 15 mins. I removed the coolant hoses that run in front of the cam plugs so I could see what I was doing, then jiggled the crank around the TDC point until the cam slots aligned and finally got the tool in place. Turns out that they align when the TDC crank mark is about 2 degrees past the mark on the engine case. I could not tighten the allen head bolt that came with the LN kit, so I cut down and used a 13mm bolt and a cordless ratchet to bolt the tool to the engine case. Onto the tensioners... let battle commence.
  16. SpawnyWhippet
    2004 C4S
  17. SpawnyWhippet
    Too late to check now, but I did it a month ago when deciding to install the IMS bearing and they were very close (a lot less than 1 deg off). Assuming it is retarded, how straightforward is it to get them timed now, without pulling the engine?
  18. SpawnyWhippet
    well, I've been trying for over an hour to lock the cams by the water pump with no success. Cannot get the cam lock tool into both cams at the same time. The lower cam lock fits when the engine is at TDC mark, but the top one only goes in when it is a degree or 2 past TDC
  19. SpawnyWhippet
    Thanks for the fast response JFP - the LN Engineering instructions are the first ones I read but they are too high level and do not say which cams I need to lock and where - see the extract from their instructions below. I also do not understand the part about "Lock camshaft in head with tensioner accessed from underside of the engine". I need a more detailed set of instructions (pref with pics) that show exactly which cams to lock and where, and preferably that also show pics of the IMS to crank tensioner and examples of what a worn one would look like. EPS did a very good set of instructions for the Eternal IMS fix, but it is not for the LN bearing. Extract from LN instructions: "6. Use appropriate long cam lock tool for 3-chain or short cam lock tool for 5-chain engine to lock cams prior to removing chain tensioners. Lock camshaft in head with tensioner accessed from underside of the engine, closest to flywheel. 7. Remove the IMS to crankshaft chain tensioner as well as well the chain tensioner on the cylinder head for which you have locked the cam. If tensioners are worn or were noisy at startup, replace. NOTE: If the flange does not come off easily, the bearing is not centered, or you cannot reinstall the flange, then loosen and/or remove the third chain tensioner and verify or correct camshaft timing."
  20. SpawnyWhippet
    I am doing the LN Engineering IMS retrofit installation now, but after reading half a dozen different tutorials and installation guides, I am still not clear on which of the cams I need to lock on my 2004 C4S. Most of the guides just say 'lock the cams at TDC for cylinder 1'. They don't say if I need to lock just the 2 cams for cyl 1-3 at the rear of the engine near the water pump, or the 2 for cyl 4-6 on the forward starboard side of the engine by the flywheel. or both. The LN tool kit only came with 1 cam lock tool, but I have another cam lock already. I am also reading contradictory information about whether I need to remove just 2 tensioners or also the 3rd one on the top of the engine near the AC. Can anyone confirm or clarify these points?
  21. SpawnyWhippet
    I decided not to lower my engine - I was able to change the AOS on my 2001 996 without doing so. I got to all the AOS bolts and lower connections from below, near the rear drivers wheel, then undid the top clips after I pulled the drivers side manifold out. I guess it was also about 5 hours of work for me too, a fair amount of which was bolting the manifold back on.
  22. SpawnyWhippet
    This did nothing for my radio. I thought it needed to be recoded by MOST software to talk on the MOST bus?
  23. SpawnyWhippet
    I have the opposite problem. During the course of re-installing my factory CDR23 radio in my 2004 C4S, I noticed that the glove box light never goes out. I guess the micro-switch is stuck in the 'on' position. I guess I will need to replace that harness, but can't find it cheaper than $47 from porschepartshub.com (the new online store of Sunset Imports) On another note, can't see to locate the antenna cable that should plug into the radio. The aftermarket one used its own Sirius XM satellite antenna.
  24. SpawnyWhippet
    In answer to my own question, it takes about an hour, start to finish. My noisy SAI pump is now totally silent :-)
  25. SpawnyWhippet
    Thank you, ordered :-)
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