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SpawnyWhippet

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Everything posted by SpawnyWhippet

  1. Am I removing the wrong bolts? I have 2x 13mm bolts holding the lower part of the muffler bracket under the engine, and 2x longer 13mm bolts holding the upper part to the engine just above the coil pack for cylinder 2
  2. Perhaps I am doing something wrong, but I have spent 60 mins just trying to remove the upper rear bolt that holds the drivers side muffler bracket on. I can just about get a long extension with a universal joint to the bolt and get 1/8 of a turn with my ratchet before the UJ locks up. If the long bolts that hold the muffler to the muffler brackets had been fitted upside down with the nut at the top, this would have been 5 mins job as I could just drop the bolts out the bottom and pull the muffler off the bracket.
  3. I'm considering it, but at present just attacking 5 years of deferred maintenance with a huge mountain of replacement service items and fluids.
  4. Yes, thats the bit I am referring to. Shouldn't the bypass valve be a spring assembly that goes in there? Mine is just an empty 1/2" bit of tube protruding from the center of the bottom of the housing, looks like it should have something to sit in it. I called the local dealer and they told me the bypass valve is part of the housing. Does this pic below look like I have the valve or just a cup for it to sit in?
  5. I just bought a 2001 996C2 and dropped the oil and filter from the car. I noticed that the drain plug was missing the aluminum washer / seal and there appears to be no spindle / spring / check valve in the oil filter housing. I can see a metal tube in the base of the filter housing, and on the bottom of the engine where it screws in, I can see the corresponding mounting point, but there is nothing between them. What should this spring check valve look like, and can they be ordered seperately from the housing? (I already had the drain plug seal in my parts bin, so don't need to order one of those.)
  6. Try 1543 Worked perfectly and very fast response, thanks so much!
  7. Hi, replaced the car battery and my CDR220 is asking for a code. Serial is 15064984. Thank you very much in advance
  8. No. My bearing looked fine so I didn't try to do anything to disturb it. My car is a 2008 with 50k miles
  9. I just installed this EPS unit (European Parts Solution), supplied by Pelican Parts for around $450 including new flex disk and bolts. Took me about an hour from start to finish, and the hardest and lengthiest part was carefully jacking up the car onto stands. 1. Undo about 6-7 bolts for the support plate 2. Slide the old bearing support forward, grind/cut through it and take it off. (point of no return) 3. Remove the remaining rubber from the surface of the bearing with a blade. 4. Fasten the 4 allen bolts to attach the new support to the old bearing 5. Refit the 6 bolts that hold the plate on. I don't think I have done an easier job on a car.
  10. Fantastic! That's exactly what it was. I located this diagram which shows the cam position sensors (17 and 18) and found that 18 was not inserted all the way in. Snapped it in and error gone. Drove around the block and all codes are gone, green lights across the board in my Durametric. Thanks very much for saving me hundreds of dollars in dealers diagnosis!
  11. Several of my vacuum pipes on the drivers side intake manifold cover cracked during the removal process, possibly due to age or heat, as they were very brittle. Part numbers for these are: 948.105.245.04 (small hose from beneath cover to front of engine block) 948.107.245.02 (larger hose connecting left and right intake covers at rear of engine) I finished the job, but have fault code 'DME 4603 Upper limit value exceeded' in my Durametric scanner. I tried driving around and erasing the codes, but it always returns when I start the engine. I am hoping this is related to the 2 vacuum hoses that I temporarily repaired with self amalgamating tape and heat shrink in order to start the engine to test the coolant system for leaks. I can't find any information on this code at all.
  12. Do you know if this DIY is the same for 2008 Cayenne S? I have bought the following parts, as recommended by my dealers parts department: thermostat: 948.106.125.01, gasket: 948.106.533.00 2 o-rings: 948.106.707.00 intake socket: 948.106.101.03 1 gallon Porsche coolant Did you need to drain the whole cooling system, or just half to get the water level below the water pump? I saw on some other forums that people also were using some Porsche grease for the o-rings. Did you use this, or any other fluids/oils/greases?
  13. Any chance you can host it on Dropbox, Google Drive or similar so I could grab a copy off you?
  14. I checked on my car, almost all the values I selected under Engine just came up as 'Error', so its not just your car. I did find an error code for 8121 - "implausible signal". My favorite error message of all time. So sick of seeing that one on my old CTT. The Actual values for the engine are not responding, RPM, Fuel trim, Oil pressure, etc. I have the car parked because I cannot diagnose the Oil Pressure Monitoring fault...
  15. After reading around, it may not be as straightforward as just popping a new DVD in the drive. Seems I need to get the unit upgraded to the latest firmware in order to read the latest disks, for which I would need some upgrade CD. Can anyone confirm which firmware version I would need? My car was delivered new in Nov 2007.
  16. I have the same car and model year, plus the same Durametric software version. Can you tell me precisely what you are trying to do - I'll go out and replicate your actions on my car and see if I get the same response?
  17. no, after changing the transfer case control module and all the fluids, cleaning all the terminals and grounds, trying all the fuses, testing the battery then still finding nothing significant with multiple diagnostics, I just lost the will to live with this car.
  18. OK, I gave up. Took it to my local main dealer, who charged me $200 for diagnostics and found no faults. On the way home, it did it again, so I sold it dirt cheap for parts or repair on Craigslist. At least the guy buying it knows what he is getting into and seemed not too bothered by it. The most annoying thing is that I will never know the cause of the error codes and warning lights.
  19. I still have the original navi disk in my car from 2008. Does anyone have the price, part number and best place to buy the latest update disk? How recent would this be?
  20. Do you have the VW part numbers for the 95562490801 right hand A/C drive motor (1810 code)? One of mine has gone bad. The transfer case stepper can be purchased from VW for 382. Check VWparts2go for any 04-06 Touareg. I checked on my CTT and it's the same part number. The early versions of the stepper motor ended with an A part number (stamped on the motor itself), but the updated version ends with a C. I'm almost 100% positive everything behind the dash is the same part number (at least in regards to the HVAC unit) as the Touareg. VWparts2go has the cheapest new parts I've been able to find online (got most of my Touareg parts from them). When I cross checked a lot of the flapper solenoids with the VW part, it was quite a bit cheaper.
  21. I replaced my transfer case control module with a $150 used part from a 2006 Turbo S in a wreckers yard and drove for 4 hours at high speed - no errors popped up, where they would usually have appeared within 2 hours. I'll keep an eye on it, but hopefully that's finally fixed. UPDATE: I got a 4WD fault but no PSM fault today after a short drive, still needs troubleshooting.
  22. I really appreciate everyone's time and effort to help me with this problems, thank you. Where is this control unit located so I can check the ground? I will try to identify and clean the relevant fuses. At this point, I am considering a shotgun approach and just buying a replacement control module, switches and transfer case motor off fleabay. Can anyone tell me if control module 0AD 927 755 AM will work on my 04 Turbo Pig, or will I need to get OAD 927 755 AA? The second one was 6 times the price of the first one and looks identical.
  23. Apart from all the other issues going on with the 4 wheel drive system, selecting the transmission into Park is a mechanical function of the selector lever via a cable to the gearbox which engages a pawl into a gear inside the transmission and thereby locking it.If you indeed selected transmission into Park and the car kept rolling, there is a mechanical failure between the tranny selector lever and the transmission. I thought the same about the Park system, but after the car came back to life, the Park function again operated correctly. Therefore it must have some kind of electronic control overriding it. I'm still no nearer to a fix. I may have to bite the bullet and take it to my local stealership
  24. I just had a quote for tailgate glass damage - it was almost nothing to see, just a broken tailgate window and a couple of scratches and chipped paint. I was thinking $500 for glass and paint. The insurance adjuster gave me a quote of $11.5k.
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