NewArt1

in this fantastically detailed post : http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/996-forum/644150-1-rebuilt-engine-1-month-and-325-pictures-later.html , Logray rebuilds his M96-01 and he mentions using BMW lifters from 4wheelsautoparts.com . These are less expensive than the equivalent porsche oem even though they are identical from the same oem supplier (apparently). I just thought that someone may have used equivalent parts in common repairs and would like to share the info. :)

I am aware that Porsche sources many car parts from other brands: BMW, Audi, and VW to name 3. For instance, the lifters used in my 986 S are apparently the same as found in the BMW parts bin. My question is, does anyone know of a list or resource to find the equivalent part number? For example, the lifters at Porsche are part number 99610504172, so the corresponding BMW # would be ..... Thanks for any info you might have!

"Old Porsche shop adage: "When in doubt, pull it out..........." Engines are always easier to work on when bolted to an engine stand, you can put them in any position that is convenient to what you are doing; can't say that when it is sitting in the car." Well, I think I will do just that! Bought the engine stand and the support beam today, got a line on an ATV jack which I will pick up soon! I've got my Bently's and my 101 Projects. Got my list of possible things to upgrade with part numbers. Got my friends here in the forums! Wish me luck! :cheers:

If you are just replacing the hydraulic tensioners, the tool(s) is not necssary; start by first running your cam deviation values with the Durametric system for refference, then just lock the engine at TDC, lock the cams, and you are set to swap out the tensioners. When done, recheck the cam deviation values to be sure nothing moved. If you are going deeper (e,g,: removing the chains, etc.) you need some addtional tooling to hold the cams in place while the cam covers are off. Once the parts swap out was done, you would then need the 9599 during the process of retiming the cams to properly tension the paddles and chains while setting the timing. You should also be aware that if you are just changing out the hydraulic chain tensioner units, you do not need to drop the engine. At the moment my cam deviation values are about 0.35 and -9.35. I would like to start by changing the chain rails (pads). If I can do this without dropping the engine, then I could easily check to see if this fixes the problem. I just figured that this would be a real birch to do with the engine still stuffed up in there. Shouldn't I necessarily replace the chains though? That -9.35 is troublesome. As your original post only mentioned the tensioners, I did not know how deep you were planning to go. You can do all four tensioners with the engine in the car, but if you intend to do the chain paddles it would be quicker with the engine out, and there is no way to do the chains without pulling the engine as you are now into splitting the cases. I was only thinking about the cam chains though. So I'd have to remove the cam cover but no further. Don't know whether this is more trouble to do it in the car or to drop the engine. Again, if it is doable in the car it simplifies some aspects of the job, but if it doesn't fix the problem then I'll have been working in cramped quarters for nothing. Dilemma! :eek:

If you are just replacing the hydraulic tensioners, the tool(s) is not necssary; start by first running your cam deviation values with the Durametric system for refference, then just lock the engine at TDC, lock the cams, and you are set to swap out the tensioners. When done, recheck the cam deviation values to be sure nothing moved. If you are going deeper (e,g,: removing the chains, etc.) you need some addtional tooling to hold the cams in place while the cam covers are off. Once the parts swap out was done, you would then need the 9599 during the process of retiming the cams to properly tension the paddles and chains while setting the timing. You should also be aware that if you are just changing out the hydraulic chain tensioner units, you do not need to drop the engine. At the moment my cam deviation values are about 0.35 and -9.35. I would like to start by changing the chain rails (pads). If I can do this without dropping the engine, then I could easily check to see if this fixes the problem. I just figured that this would be a real birch to do with the engine still stuffed up in there. Shouldn't I necessarily replace the chains though?

Some of your have followed my quest for info about dropping the engine and doing a chain tensioner swap/upgrade/replacement (986 forum). I have seen references to the Porsche factory chain tensioner tool 9599 which is apparently quite expensive and, if I understand correctly, unnecessary according to Wayne Dempster's book: "If you do not have this extremely expensive tool (upper right inset of Figure 24), you can tighten up the tension on the chain using the regular chain tensioner. Reinstall the tensioner completely into the bottom of the case." So, do I do, or do I don't need this? If you have any experience with this please let me know.

You can check out the pertinent posts at this link http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/48709-has-anyone-actually-diy-chain-tensioner-pads.html I will be removing the engine in a few weeks but I will be removing the cross brace , so it won't be necessary to lift the car quite so high! I will use 24" jack stands and an ATV jack to drop the motor and roll it out.

Seems that the fluid is okay. It was replaced in the spring. It may be the sensor. Had a hard time finding the right part number. Apparently you have to replace the whole wiring harness. The part is 4 hundred and change at Porsche, I found an OEM for 170. I'll try to figure out the electrical troubleshooting procedure first.

Thanks, I'll check that. BTW my car's last home was in Roseville. Ron Kain at IPB Autosport did the PPI.

Lately my 2001 Boxster S tiptronic has been throwing a P0710 code. This is indicated first by my transmission selector lights flashing alternately between D and 4. Otherwise the transmission behaves normally, shifting up and down, in both auto and manual modes. Information on this is sketchy. My durametric tells me that the code (P0710) is a Transmission temperature sensor fault. I would first like to check the sensor, a procedure which is briefly outlined in a repair manual ("Check sender for ATF temperature with wiring. To do this connect an ohmmeter to control module connector pins 21 and 22...etc.) Now there's a box in my rear trunk that's supposed to be the control unit but where exactly are the connector pins 21 and 22 located? Sorry if I seem a bit dense here. :unsure: -James

Yes, the clock spring plastic thingies are a joke. I snapped one off when I was doing the OBC upgrade (project 91 in the 101 Projects book). The 4 stalk assembly that I bought on e-bay was from a manual Carrera and mine's a Tip so the perfect clock spring that (surprisingly) came with it was not the right type. So I said WTF, there's still one good plastic holder and put it back together. A few months later and no problems. Touch wood. Maybe I should get out the toothpicks :rolleyes: