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orthotist

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Everything posted by orthotist

  1. orthotist
    Finally found a way to get the video uploaded. Maybe this will shed some new light.
  2. orthotist
    Did it sound like this before you had it fixed?
  3. orthotist
    There was a Black CTTS on Autotrader.com in Olathe, kansas not too long ago. Don't know if it's still listed.
  4. orthotist
    2006 Cayenne Turbo U.S.A Looking for the O.E. part number for the fuel door actuator. Inside the quarter panel area. Thanks,
  5. orthotist
    Same problem here with radio signal, sucks horribly. 2006 CTT
  6. orthotist
    Fuel Door Actuator Removal DIY So I thought I had a fuel door actuator issue and I went ahead and replaced it. I did a DIY to help anyone in the future. I will keep it short and sweet with many pics. Actuator itself. Part number Remove the rear passenger panel cover first. Detach the trim, (clips to pop) Remove floor section Remove screws Pop out harness Remove dome light Start at end of center interior section Remove center Section Remove corner section Remove Side Piller Section Remove Author orthotist Category Cayenne (9PA, 9PA1) - Common Fixes and Repairs Submitted 12/15/2013 01:31 PM Updated 12/15/2013 08:29 PM
  7. orthotist
    So I thought I had a fuel door actuator issue and I went ahead and replaced it. I did a DIY to help anyone in the future. I will keep it short and sweet with many pics. Actuator itself. Part number Remove the rear passenger panel cover first. Detach the trim, (clips to pop) Remove floor section Remove screws Pop out harness Remove dome light Start at end of center interior section Remove center Section Remove corner section Remove Side Piller Section Remove Speaker Wire Remove two screws for the CD changer frame. Third screw to the left of CD changer Fourth screw deep down inside of panel, left of changer. Actuator attached with two screws. Loosen the screws and unslot from metal bracket. Pull out and take note of emergency pull strap. The reason I had to remove so many panels was to be able to pull the quarter panel open enough without removing it all together. I saved a bunch of time doing that but be careful of all the plastic and metal clips when removing them. First time for me and never broke anything, just go slowly. I never removed the CD changer, just enough wiggle room with the frame loose. I used Torx sockets and Phillips screwdriver to remove most everything and a panel remove tool. Good luck, Hope this helps.
  8. orthotist
    I know this might sound weird but the manual address some of this verbage that your mentioning about the transmission shifting up and down along with shifting points based on speed and RPM's triptronic over to automatic.
  9. orthotist
    Both work while plugged in at harness and unbolted from car, but only in one direction. If I add power to it outside the car, it cycles back and forth with a pumping action just fine.
  10. orthotist
    Possible radiator fan Possible clogged radiator vents Possible aux. Fan issue
  11. orthotist
    So, I have a weird situation. I can close the fuel door and it clicks to stay closed when I push it in. Then I can lock it (with remote) and the metal rod shoots out and locks the fuel door but here is the problem. When I hit the unlock (with remote), the metal rod will not retract back to allow me to pop the fuel door back open. End result is, I have to open the hatch, reach into the side panel and pop the emergency rubber band just to put fuel into it. I though replacing the actuator would solve my problem but I new one functions in the same manner. Does anyone have any idea what the problem or problems is? Here is a picture of the rod.
  12. orthotist
    That all makes perfect sense to me. I was just wondering if anyone had did it. Here in Kansas I would be fine without secondary cats, pretty liberal inspections. I think I would buy the pipes first before gutting the cats.
  13. orthotist
    I did. http://www.ebay.com/itm/04-PORSCHE-CAYENNE-TURBO-FRONT-EXHAUST-PIPE-7L5254450E-or-7L5254400A-OEM/271304958968?_trksid=p2045573.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D27%26meid%3D2939751651209938966%26pid%3D100033%26prg%3D1011%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D261174241615%26 If you are removing them anyways for $600 straight pipes are you then selling the OE cats or are you keeping them to change back in case anyone needs them to pass an inspection? Do most people keep the cats for a "just in case" factor?
  14. orthotist
    I guess for the same reason anyone would take theirs cats off and replace it with a straight pipe that cost close to $600. It's a cost saving question. I haven't heard anyone on this thread do it anyways. The difference between doing it and a straight pipe is the materials inside the pipe.
  15. orthotist
    I thought I might find on Ebay or someone that had already replaced them with aftermarkets and do it to them to see what happens. Clogged cats would work well. I was wondering more if anyone else has done it already?
  16. orthotist
    Looks nice, better for that money, right? LOL
  17. orthotist
    I know a lot of people send a lot of money buying straight pipes for the secondary cats to get that extra sound and HP. Has anyone ever removed the cats and just "rodded" it out. Meaning, chopping/bashing (hammer) the honeycomb core out with a metal conduit pipe until opened up. Then reinstall them and done! Should have same effect right? Might be a $10 mod, max!
  18. orthotist
    Well, I check the bearing this morning. Everything seems and looks fine. So, it's not driveshaft bearing (at least for now). I'm still searching for the squeal?
  19. orthotist
    Is it easy to just to the bearing itself? Is it pressed on, easy to press off. Just dont see a point in replacement of whole shaft when bearing might be the problem.I replaced the whole shaft assembly. If you choose to replace only the bearing, you have to break down and re-assemble the shaft at the CV joint. I wasn't prepared to do this, so I went with a Vertex rebuilt unit. I replaced the whole shaft assembly. If you choose to replace only the bearing, you have to break down and re-assemble the shaft at the CV joint.I wasn't prepared to do this, so I went with a Vertex rebuilt unit.
  20. orthotist
    I've seen this bearing kit you buy without removing the drive shaft. You cut the housing off and install and a bearing repack with grease. Anyone know anything about that kit? Its on youtube and there website.
  21. orthotist
    Any squeals wines chirps before it started the thump under the consle area?
  22. orthotist
    Can you pm me your email address.
  23. orthotist
    Did you just replace the bearing or the whole shaft assembly?
  24. orthotist
    Did you just replace the bearing or the whole shaft assembly?
  25. orthotist
    Did it make any squeals / wines / chirps that progressed to the fail point?
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