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LemmyCaution

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Everything posted by LemmyCaution

  1. LemmyCaution
    This was posted on PPBB - just wanted to get another opinion before I move on this: One of the tailpipe 'shrouds' on my PSE has broken and, the driver's side actuator is loose causing rattles. Although the areas needing spotwelds are accessible, the guy doing the welding was concerned about high voltage possibly damaging systems on the car. A friend of mine who builds vintage racers suggested that I bring the car by and have his builder re-weld the broken weld etc. The welder is accustomed to working on Ferraris and Alfas and expressed concern about his welding equipment (TIG I assume) producing high current pulses that might damage the ECU or other components. In addition, there's not room in the shop to bring the car inside so it would need to be done outside. Both breaks are accessible without removing the system. My gut tells me to remove the PSE and take it to the shop as much for access as safety. Am I being overly cautious? I'd rather not waste half a day removing and reinstalling my exhaust system. I'm not committed to using my friend's resource and can find a shop who can accomplish the job and I really don't relish removing the PSE if I don't have to. Thoughts? Thanks!
  2. LemmyCaution
    I've had the Mintex Reds for 8000 miles (year). They work well for me - 90% urban/freeways and 10% the occasional hard canyon run. I bought the Mintexes based on John Brown's positive experience on PPBB. On a particularly aggressive canyon run, my OE pads were really stinking and fading. Maybe it's just me but, I find that Iamb harder on the brakes on canyon runs than during my rare track times. At that point, I changed to Mintex 1144s (Blue Box) - they're great light track pads and were terrific in canyon runs but elicit nasty stares when I'm driving to work in Beverly Hills- they squeal like stuck pigs when cold. I ran the blues for approximately 17000 miles - 2 years. I switched to Reds for regular street use and will use either Mintex Blue or Pagid Oranges next time I do a track event. I'd like to try the Pagid pads as they seem to be the consensus choice. The Reds do better than my OE pads on hard runs. My understanding is that Porsche sources pads from several manufacturers. I was not impressed with the OE pads (stock 99 Boxster pads).
  3. LemmyCaution
    Thanks - I'll have a look this afternoon.
  4. LemmyCaution
    How does one access the swaybar bolts? I just lifted my Boxster and did not readily see them. Are they behind the plastic shielding? I did not remove the wheels.
  5. LemmyCaution
    Follow-up as posted at PPBB For the last 10,000 miles, there was an increasingly loud and annoying noise emanating from the inside the lower left of the dash. It started out as a creaking noise then morphed to a metal/metal squeak, finally emerging as a loud CRACK, every time I hit a bump or when the car flexed significantly. In the last week, it became almost constant. Last week, during other work in the area, I found that the lower left dash panel was loose and was probably the source of this most annoying rattle. Some idiot (paris audio tech) had removed and replaced the OBDII connector during the installation of a radar detector and replaced a speednut in front of, instead of behind the dash and cover plates. While this particular problem was the result of an aftermarket error, the screws do loosen and need to be checked if rattles are present. There are similar screws on the right side that I tightened. I hope this helps someone. If you're familiar with the underdash area, these photos should make more sense. I removed the left kick panel (four screws under the fuse cover)to gain access to the screw " The OBDII connector is shown somewhat rotated in this pic. The connector has 3 speed nuts which line up with 3 holes in the dash trim panel and stamped metal dash plate behind. " The OBD2 connector has a kink in it which allows placement behind the dash plate. Torx Screw goes through hole attaching to speednut. "
  6. LemmyCaution
    Here's the progress, and it's bizarre: Knowing this, I paid a little more attention to the sound, and it does seem to come from behind my left shoulder blade. The good news is that it's not the dash. The bad news is that there's plenty of sniffing to do around there. But, getting to the guts underneath the top area is alot easier than getting inside the dash. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I've had that noise - it went away - I think. I'll keep posting progress on my dash problem -
  7. LemmyCaution
    I'm dealing with the same thing - how much progress have you made? The lower part of the dash/knee bolster seems very loose - like a weld is broken or a screw is really loose. I attempted to remove the left A/C vent for access but, I forgot how to remove it and the light switch.
  8. LemmyCaution
    Do a search for Air Oil Separator. Several of us have experience with it. There are typically two problems: Failure of the device itself resulting in the symptoms you describe Failure of a bellows tube that attaches it to the engine case resulting in CEL What you're describing can actually become very serious and lead to engine damage so, check the intake and if it's oily, either book it in for service or buy the part and replace it. It's not a technically challenging job but it is an annoying job. Worth a couple hundred dollars IMHO. Doug_D from Cameron Park has a good write-up on the issue.
  9. LemmyCaution
    You are correct - the 'ratchet' action is auto correcting. I'll try to take a photo. It's not the easiest place to negotiate so, don't hold your breath! Funny you mention it, I was thinking today that I should have documented the procedure w/photos.
  10. LemmyCaution
    Here's how I resolved the issue. It's generally helpful info regarding Cruise Control issues. The car is a non-egas 1999 with 54k miles. Both Clutch switches had a considerable build-up of crud inside them so I removed, cleaned and reinstalled the switches. There is a plunger on the main clutch switch that needs to be reset after reinstalling the switch - that was the primary cause of the cruise control failure. Here's what I did in some detail: 1 - removed microswitch (small rectangular)clutch/ignition interlock cleaned it with Caig's Gold. Blew it out w/air 2 - replaced said switch - still no CC. 3 - removed plunger switch (this is the one that communicates with ECU directly affecting Cruise Control). Took switch apart, cleaned it. It was full of grease etc. The grease may be a necessary part but, it didn't look good so, I cleaned it w/Caig's and applied compressed air, reassembled and replaced - still no CC. 4 - Here's what finally did the trick: depressed the clutch pedal and observed the switch action. I pulled the plunger all the way out of the switch til it stopped (it has a kind of ratchet effect). Released clutch pedal (the most difficult part of this operation is depressing and releasing the clutch while lying on one's back underneath the dash). Voila! Cruise Control now works. A lot of effort for something that I rarely use
  11. LemmyCaution
    Thank you for all the info - Fuse was good - all the lights are working (C.C. lamp in the lower right quadrant of the speedometer). 'jumpering' - there is a microswitch on U.S. cars that functions as an interlock between the clutch and ignition. If the clutch is NOT depressed, the car won't start. This switch was specified by the lawyers - not the engineers. They tend to wear out or get 'gummed-up'. When they do, the engine will not turn over until the switch makes eventual contact. As a work-around, I installed a short wire (jumper) between the two sides of the switch until I could replace the switch. I revisted my work and discovered something that I had overlooked. The main clutch switch has a plunger - when I was working on the microswitch, I apparently pushed the plunger in which didn't allow the switch to function properly. I reset the plunger and all is now good.
  12. LemmyCaution
    I read a couple of similar, unresolved threads that describe the problem that I'm having: Green indicator lamp lights but I cannot set cruise. I know it worked in early June. 1 - in early July, the clutch/starter interlock switch started to require two or three pushes before the car would start. I jumpered the switch. This shouldn't make a difference. 2- I cleaned and checked the other clutch plunger switch - it seems to be operating well. 3 - I've done work in the engine compartment and replaced the battery this summer. Are there any vacuum or electric connections that I could have disrupted? Any ideas before I give up and call the dealer?
  13. LemmyCaution
    Read this from PCA.org tech article. The next to last paragraph (though confusingly written) provides some insight. http://www.pca.org/tech/tech_qa_question.a...F-5CC98AE5EE18}
  14. LemmyCaution
    Thanks that was my assumption but, you know how assumptions are! - I'm going to change the plugs this week - I guess I'll know for sure then! I had lots of leakage on the rear passenger side of the engine from the Air Oil Separator bellows tube but, none now that the AOS is history.
  15. LemmyCaution
    Yes - give me a day or two - I need to lift the car in order to shoot the area. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Here's the photo - check the valves and make sure they are solidly mated to the bypass pipes. There's one on either side of the muffler/system. If the valve/valves are loose, you'll need to have it spotwelded in the outlined area.
  16. LemmyCaution
    Did the malfunction coincide with the installation of the battery? Are there any other installations that might affect the operation of the Litronics? Do both sides exhibit the same behavior at the same time? If yes, I doubt that it is a problem with the ballasts. Do the highbeams, and parking lights function normally? Highbeams via control stalk and with the lights switched-on? If the highbeams and parking lights do not work normally with the switch, I would suspect the light switch or a relay. I would suspect the two items that your dealer suggested and/or relay(s). From the behavior you describe, it would seem that there is a device that is central to the installation causing the problem. It should be a fairly simple process for the dealer to diagnose. This is a puzzler - I had one instance when the left hand Litronic wouldn't light. It happened once 3 years ago and has never happened again.
  17. LemmyCaution
    Yes - give me a day or two - I need to lift the car in order to shoot the area.
  18. LemmyCaution
    I have had the same problem - on mine, the entire valve assembly is loose on the driver's side. I can move it freely - It should not move at all. It needs to be spot welded. Until I get a chance to do that, I took some stainless safety wire (ACE/Home Depot) and ran a loop around the valve and the nearest clamp and twisted it down tight. I've had this wire in place for so long that I only remembered the problem when I saw your post- so at least a year. The dealer suggested that I take it to a good muffler shop and they can spot weld it. It doesn't look too difficult. Let me know if you can't figure this out and I'll post a couple of pics. Make sure the car is cool (or wear heavy work gloves) before manipulating the valve.
  19. LemmyCaution
    Thanks - I had read and bookmarked both. There isn't a description of how to determine whether or not a tube is leaking. My assumption is that it would be very obvious and would not require removing the coils. The areas below each of the plugs is dry so, I have no leaks. Now for the air/oil separator....
  20. LemmyCaution
    At 52k miles, there is some oil seepage from my 1999 Boxster's engine. As detailed elsewhere, I have tightened valvecover and crankcase bolts to spec. (Main culprit is lower Air/Oil separator line) When I inspected the engine, there was no evidence of oil leaking from the plugs. Is it safe to assume that the oil protection tubes and O-rings are intact without removing the coils and plugs?
  21. LemmyCaution
    The code indicates that cylinders 4-6 are running lean and engine management cannot restore balance to that bank. Logic says to look for a vacuum leak which I did initially. Further tests with a scanner indicated that primary 02 sensors are functioning well secondaries somewhat less well on that side (because of the rich mixture). Fuel trim is higher on that side as well by 15-20%. The MAF is stable, levels are realistic. There is evidence of oil seeping mostly on the right side of the engine. Replies to my post a few weeks back suggested replacing the MAF, replacing 02 sensors etc. (the MAF may still need replacement - FYI) Conclusion - upon inspection of the right side of the engine (cyls 4-6) I found that the valve cover and crankcase were seeping and that some bolts did not meet torque specs (10 ft/lbs). I re-torqued the valve cover per sequence posted elsewhere and the crankcase boltsb. Upon cleaning the area I found that in addition to the aforementioned oil seepage there is a leak in the lower line of the Air/Oil Separator. This had been my suspicion all long but, testing with carb cleaner did not reveal a vacuum leak. So - Monday, I will order a complete A/O Separator kit along with 6 plugs, oil filter etc. for my 6 year service.
  22. LemmyCaution
    Thanks for your reply- - I've been using my ScanTool and saving files. Still not sure what's going-on. Here's the freeze frame from the last time the code was thrown: Fuel System: Closed Loop Calculated Load: 1% Coolant Temp: 199F Short Term FT: 0.78% Long Term FT: 5.46% Short Term FT: 0.00% Long Term FT: 4.68% Fuel Pressure: Not Reported Intake Man. Press: Hot Reported Engine RPM: 793 r/min Vehicle Speed: 0MPH Just about the same readings each time - seems to always happen stopped in traffic. Engine runs rough for 30 secs light comes-on - engine smooths out after light changes.
  23. LemmyCaution
    First guess - vacuum leak so I checked Tekalon vacuum lines and other hoses, cleaned the MAF. Oil Filler is new type and replaced in last 15k miles -given that the code relates to one side (4-6), I don't think it would be MAF or oil filler/dipstick related anyway. My service manager suggested that I check the accordions on flexible line that attaches to the lower part of the Air/Oil Separator. It has some oil on it but not a great deal. Questons/considerations: 1 Where does the lower AOS line attach to the engine? 2 The AOS doesn't appear to be too difficult to replace (doug_d's posts are helpful) 3 I'm not opposed to replacing the AOS as a matter of course as failure is a nightmare . 4 What else should I check before ordering a new AOS kit? 5 What parts/processes does Oxygen Adaptation Area 2 relate to? BTW - I have slightly increased fuel consumption - no smoke in the exhaust, no residue on the pipes. CEL returns 100-150 miles after reset. Idle is smooth performance doesn't seem impacted.
  24. LemmyCaution
    All standard interior colors (black and Savannah beige) were available in leather for MY1999. I agree - replacing panels is the way to go, unless you have a trusted connection with an upholstery shop 'south of the border' even then, getting the car there, keeping it safe etc. adds to the complexity and the cost. There is an occasional - full leather dash- offered on eBay. It's a big job. I bought my 99 when new car inventories were tight, choice was low and I had intended to add leather but, the standard 'dimpled' interior has its own classic look and requires minimal care. You could say it has 'grown on me'. Minimal care=wiping down with a wet cloth and 4x per year treatment with Vinylex and Aerospace 303 (my top is down nearly year round but the car is normally garaged and not parked in the sun for long periods). There is no noticeable degradation of the dash.
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