Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest
There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.
Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org
- View Classified Ads
- DIY Tutorials
- Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
- VIN Decoder
- Special Offers
OBD II P-Codes
- Paint Codes
- Videos System
- View Reviews
- and get rid of this welcome message
It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE
Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)
- No ads - advertisements are removed
- Access the Contributors Only Forum
- Contributing Members Only Downloads
- Send attachments with PMs
- All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
- Option Codes Lookup
- VIN Option Lookups (limited)
Was TPMS standard on a 2006 S? Without airing down a tire and looking for an idiot light, is there any way to tell if my 2006 Cayenne S has TPMS? It is not shown on the option sheet for my car. I'm looking to get a used second set of rims, and some have sensors, and some don't. Since a full set of sensors is probably over $600, I'm trying to figure out what to look for.
OK, I had the bearing rubber tear apart on my 2006 S last week, precisely at the projected 70,000 miles. And I can now answer the question I posed previously. You can NOT easily split the shaft to change the bearing itself, (like you can on a BMW). You'd pretty much have to leave that to a driveshaft shop to rebuild. But I saw NO reason to go with the EPS unit. Why stick with an old bearing? I had this job done at a local shop, and the complete driveshaft and new guibo was $550. Very similar cost to the EPS solution, and you get a new bearing, and similar in cost to having the shaft rebuilt.
Check your tire pressures first. Could also be a sticking caliper. If this is the case, aside from uneven pad wear, the sticking brake can produce a good bit of heat. Take a short ride and shoot each front rotor with an infrared thermometer. A noticeable difference in temperature would confirm this diagnosis. There are also tools that measure brake pad pressure, but that's usually not needed.
>JFP Good to know.....Thanks for the clarification. I have to go look in the garage, I may even have one of those.
One way to rule out the wheels and tires is to rotate the tires. If moving the front tires/wheels to the rear does not move the vibration, then you know the wheels and tires are not the problem. You really need to get this on a lift, and check for any loose suspension components. I'd also check the right front axle. If the CV joint boot is torn, that's a red flag. But usually a bad axle will make noise, especially in tight slow turns.
Stant makes such an adaptor, but it is listed as for VW. He definitely needs to pressure test the system. So just to confirm, you're saying Stant makes an adapter to test the cap? There are plenty of alternatives for adapters to test the system.
Hydraulic motor mounts on BMW V8s are incredibly problematic as well. Aside from vibration, you can see the position of the engine lower when they fail, not to mention oil all over the place. On my X5, the engine was sitting about 1.5" - 2" lower than normal when I bought the car. Anyone used to working on one would immediately notice that the engine was sitting low. While a big job on the BMW, at least the engine stays in; although the A/C compressor must come out. If you suspect a motor mount failure, I would look carefully at the engine position as compared to another Cayenne.
With the old style American car coolant caps, you could test the cap itself. Most coolant system testers, (Stant, Snap-on, etc) come with double ended adapters so you could pressure test a cap. To my knowledge, there is no such tester available for a cap like what's on the Cayenne, unless the dealers have some sort of special tool. I would replace the cap as a start, keeping in mind that these cars are certainly prone to coolant leaks in other areas. I'd watch this very carefully until you sort this out. You could try to pressure test the rest of the system, and see if you can find the leak. UV dye can be added to help this process.
Get a coolant system pressure tester. You will also need the proper adapter to fit the car's coolant cap. I recommend the Astros Pneumatic Coolant Tester kit, which you can find on Amazon for $240. It has adapters for just about everything, and not only includes a pressure tester, but an air-lift type vacuum evacuate/filler as well. http://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumatic-78585-Universal-Radiator/dp/B0042KOK28/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1391960167&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=astro+pneumatc+coolant+system+tester With the engine cool, remove the coolant cap and replace with the proper adapter. Then connect the gauge/pressure pump. Pump the system up to 15lbs, then look for your leak. While obviously you have a pretty good leak, a proper cooling system should hold that 15lbs for quite a while. If the leak is still not visible, Snap-on sells UV dye designed for a cooling system. Put the prescribed amount of that in the coolant, then examine with a UV flashlight, (making sure you are wearing your yellow goggles so you don't harm your eyes). Sometimes the coolant needs to be warm for a leak to show up, but it's much safer to test a system cool if possible.
It is possible that you have a problem with the wiring feeding the coils; those are know to get brittle and cause problems with shorts. Or bad grounds. But you really need someone who can not only read the codes, and knows how to decipher them, AND has sufficient diagnostic skills to find a problem in the wiring. Sometimes just moving the wires around gently can cause a short or bad ground. My friend's Audi with 100k miles had similar problems last week, and not only did it have a few bad coil packs, but the wiring to the coils was literally crumbling...like it was 100 years old. Also, driving a car with a misfire is NOT a good idea. And Autozone may have a very basic generic OBDII scan tool, but that's about it. PM with local indy tech info (with Durametric) Sent.
Another "non-invasive" diagnostic test you could try would be a combustion leak test. This can test for a blown head gasket, (keep in mind there are times when a head gasket can fail with no white smoke, and only very tiny coolant loss). The tester looks like this: http://store.snapon.com/Leak-Testers-Tester-Combustion-Leak-P642924.aspx At $85 for one of these testers, it would be good information. Basically, fill a compartment in the turkey baster thing with a special fluid. Then suck in some coolant. If combustion gasses are present in the coolant, the fluid changes color.
There are a few threads on here about CTTs dropping pressure in a single cylinder. Have any of these issues ended up as a pattern of anything but scored cylinders? Anyway, what about a blown head gasket? These don't always display white smoke or rapid coolant loss. There are testers that check for compression gasses in the coolant; it's a quick and easy test that could rule this out. These testers are quite inexpensive. They look kind of like a clear chambered turkey baster with special fluid that changes color to dark blue if the head gasket is blown.
Leak down test would be the next step.
Perhaps you can chip away enough material so you can pry the outer metal shield inward a little at one spot, and give you something to grab on.
Maybe some of these? GearWrench makes these as pointed needlenose, and a square tip needlenose. As usual, even though made in Taiwan, quality is excellent. http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31DepuXVsCL.jpg These things are pretty awesome, if there's anything to grab on at all, they can exert a lot of grip. They are specifically designed for grabbing something in very tight quarters.