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RacerX5

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Everything posted by RacerX5

  1. RacerX5
    Was TPMS standard on a 2006 S? Without airing down a tire and looking for an idiot light, is there any way to tell if my 2006 Cayenne S has TPMS? It is not shown on the option sheet for my car. I'm looking to get a used second set of rims, and some have sensors, and some don't. Since a full set of sensors is probably over $600, I'm trying to figure out what to look for.
  2. RacerX5
    OK, I had the bearing rubber tear apart on my 2006 S last week, precisely at the projected 70,000 miles. And I can now answer the question I posed previously. You can NOT easily split the shaft to change the bearing itself, (like you can on a BMW). You'd pretty much have to leave that to a driveshaft shop to rebuild. But I saw NO reason to go with the EPS unit. Why stick with an old bearing? I had this job done at a local shop, and the complete driveshaft and new guibo was $550. Very similar cost to the EPS solution, and you get a new bearing, and similar in cost to having the shaft rebuilt.
  3. RacerX5
    Check your tire pressures first. Could also be a sticking caliper. If this is the case, aside from uneven pad wear, the sticking brake can produce a good bit of heat. Take a short ride and shoot each front rotor with an infrared thermometer. A noticeable difference in temperature would confirm this diagnosis. There are also tools that measure brake pad pressure, but that's usually not needed.
  4. RacerX5
    >JFP Good to know.....Thanks for the clarification. I have to go look in the garage, I may even have one of those.
  5. RacerX5
    One way to rule out the wheels and tires is to rotate the tires. If moving the front tires/wheels to the rear does not move the vibration, then you know the wheels and tires are not the problem. You really need to get this on a lift, and check for any loose suspension components. I'd also check the right front axle. If the CV joint boot is torn, that's a red flag. But usually a bad axle will make noise, especially in tight slow turns.
  6. RacerX5
    Stant makes such an adaptor, but it is listed as for VW. He definitely needs to pressure test the system. So just to confirm, you're saying Stant makes an adapter to test the cap? There are plenty of alternatives for adapters to test the system.
  7. RacerX5
    Hydraulic motor mounts on BMW V8s are incredibly problematic as well. Aside from vibration, you can see the position of the engine lower when they fail, not to mention oil all over the place. On my X5, the engine was sitting about 1.5" - 2" lower than normal when I bought the car. Anyone used to working on one would immediately notice that the engine was sitting low. While a big job on the BMW, at least the engine stays in; although the A/C compressor must come out. If you suspect a motor mount failure, I would look carefully at the engine position as compared to another Cayenne.
  8. RacerX5
    With the old style American car coolant caps, you could test the cap itself. Most coolant system testers, (Stant, Snap-on, etc) come with double ended adapters so you could pressure test a cap. To my knowledge, there is no such tester available for a cap like what's on the Cayenne, unless the dealers have some sort of special tool. I would replace the cap as a start, keeping in mind that these cars are certainly prone to coolant leaks in other areas. I'd watch this very carefully until you sort this out. You could try to pressure test the rest of the system, and see if you can find the leak. UV dye can be added to help this process.
  9. RacerX5
    Get a coolant system pressure tester. You will also need the proper adapter to fit the car's coolant cap. I recommend the Astros Pneumatic Coolant Tester kit, which you can find on Amazon for $240. It has adapters for just about everything, and not only includes a pressure tester, but an air-lift type vacuum evacuate/filler as well. http://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumatic-78585-Universal-Radiator/dp/B0042KOK28/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1391960167&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=astro+pneumatc+coolant+system+tester With the engine cool, remove the coolant cap and replace with the proper adapter. Then connect the gauge/pressure pump. Pump the system up to 15lbs, then look for your leak. While obviously you have a pretty good leak, a proper cooling system should hold that 15lbs for quite a while. If the leak is still not visible, Snap-on sells UV dye designed for a cooling system. Put the prescribed amount of that in the coolant, then examine with a UV flashlight, (making sure you are wearing your yellow goggles so you don't harm your eyes). Sometimes the coolant needs to be warm for a leak to show up, but it's much safer to test a system cool if possible.
  10. RacerX5
    It is possible that you have a problem with the wiring feeding the coils; those are know to get brittle and cause problems with shorts. Or bad grounds. But you really need someone who can not only read the codes, and knows how to decipher them, AND has sufficient diagnostic skills to find a problem in the wiring. Sometimes just moving the wires around gently can cause a short or bad ground. My friend's Audi with 100k miles had similar problems last week, and not only did it have a few bad coil packs, but the wiring to the coils was literally crumbling...like it was 100 years old. Also, driving a car with a misfire is NOT a good idea. And Autozone may have a very basic generic OBDII scan tool, but that's about it. PM with local indy tech info (with Durametric) Sent.
  11. RacerX5
    Another "non-invasive" diagnostic test you could try would be a combustion leak test. This can test for a blown head gasket, (keep in mind there are times when a head gasket can fail with no white smoke, and only very tiny coolant loss). The tester looks like this: http://store.snapon.com/Leak-Testers-Tester-Combustion-Leak-P642924.aspx At $85 for one of these testers, it would be good information. Basically, fill a compartment in the turkey baster thing with a special fluid. Then suck in some coolant. If combustion gasses are present in the coolant, the fluid changes color.
  12. RacerX5
    There are a few threads on here about CTTs dropping pressure in a single cylinder. Have any of these issues ended up as a pattern of anything but scored cylinders? Anyway, what about a blown head gasket? These don't always display white smoke or rapid coolant loss. There are testers that check for compression gasses in the coolant; it's a quick and easy test that could rule this out. These testers are quite inexpensive. They look kind of like a clear chambered turkey baster with special fluid that changes color to dark blue if the head gasket is blown.
  13. RacerX5
    Leak down test would be the next step.
  14. RacerX5
    Perhaps you can chip away enough material so you can pry the outer metal shield inward a little at one spot, and give you something to grab on.
  15. RacerX5
    Maybe some of these? GearWrench makes these as pointed needlenose, and a square tip needlenose. As usual, even though made in Taiwan, quality is excellent. http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31DepuXVsCL.jpg These things are pretty awesome, if there's anything to grab on at all, they can exert a lot of grip. They are specifically designed for grabbing something in very tight quarters.
  16. RacerX5
    There is ethanol in all gas, all the time, not just winter months. But, I agree with you, ethanol yeilds lower MPG's, for sure. I have an enthanol test kit for fuels. When I was testing my gas, I saw ranges from 4% ethanol to 9% all year long. No real rhyme or reason. Ethanol is roughly 33% lower in heat content (BTU) than gas, so you will get both less power and lower mileage as the alcohol content rises in mixed fuels. I always thought they upped the ethanol content in the winter.
  17. RacerX5
    All the above items make sense, and I would probably add that snow tires probably add a lot of rolling resistant as well, (something you'd be smart to use if you live in CT). But probably the biggest factor in reducing gas mileage BY FAR in wintertime, is that in the Northeast, they add ethanol to all gas station fuels during the winter months. Ethanol basically sucks for a lot of reasons; lower gas mileage without reduced cost, and it can do all sorts of expensive damage to the fuel systems of cars not designed for E85. Big brother claims it won't harm a thing...but that's a massive lie. It can certainly take a 10-15% bite out of fuel economy. Now if you had a flex fuel vehicle that was tuned to run on exclusively E85 , you can get quite good performance...but still with reduced gas mileage. I have no idea how the CTT computer reacts to the ethanol in the fuel. Due to the anti-knock properties, it might be delivering a little higher power, (more advance, different mixture, etc); which will also burn more gas.
  18. RacerX5
  19. RacerX5
    Also, worse case, and you do need a motor, you could ask the independent if the could get a guaranteed low milage motor from a junk yard. Probably under $6,500 for an insured junkyard motor; you could be on the road for somewhere under $9k. But I'd bet a bad valve or broken spring could be repaired for thousands less. Makes a hell of a lot more sense than 3x that for a new motor from the dealer. And if the bottom end is confirmed as bad, strain all the oil and cut the filter open to look for any metal bits. I'd want to be really sure it wasn't a piece of broken turbo that killed the motor. From a junkyard, there's not a whole lot of price difference for a turbo motor with or w/o turbos, so you may as well use the known good turbos from the replacement motor, but some come with them and some don't.
  20. RacerX5
    I think the first thing I would do is to reconfirm the results of the compression test. 40lbs is SO low, it's amazing that you wouldn't notice serious drivability issues way before it got that low. You can buy a second hand Snap-on or MAC compression tester on eBay for about $60. I believe you will need a steel extension adapter (not just the normal hoses),because of the recessed plugs; I know MAC sells these, not sure about Snap-on. What also makes me question the reliability of anything this dealer has to say is their $5,000 quote to pull the engine and head. If this is really less than 10hrs as quoted above, that's $500/hr. Which tells me they are thieves. Even if that price included reinstalling the motor, they are still padding the cost by $3k. So it's time to question their diagnosis and find a good Indy. Everything the Indy you went to made sense, but I would check the compression before going further.
  21. RacerX5
    >PKN Speaking of oil where it should not be...take a very close look into the tube for the offending #5 cylinder. There should not be ANY oil in there. Sometimes a bad valve cover gasket can cause oil to leak into the spark plug tubes, and it does not take too much to cause a misfire.
  22. RacerX5
    I have the multi-function steering wheel with the phone buttons as well.
  23. RacerX5
    I just bought a 2006 Cayenne S, with Nav. How do I determine which version of PCM I have?
  24. RacerX5
    I replaced the whole shaft assembly. If you choose to replace only the bearing, you have to break down and re-assemble the shaft at the CV joint. I wasn't prepared to do this, so I went with a Vertex rebuilt unit. What is so hard about splitting the shaft to get out the center bearing?
  25. RacerX5
    So there is no settlement if you take the car to an independent mechanic or do the job yourself?
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