Popolou

If you have the official extended warranty booklet, read it very very carefully as items you'd think should be covered are not. For example, no part of the PCM system is covered and whereas the window motor is covered, the regulator that's bolted to it is not. Also, rattles and squeeks are no longer part of the extended cover so if there is an issue, get it looked into now and make sure there is a history to it if you need to follow it up post-expiry. Regards Pop

Those interested in a non-oem Tel module, also look into the Tooki by Nav-Tv. Pop

It seems to be more related to driving slow then turning the wheel quickly. Today if I can get out in the car, I will try and see if there is a difference at with the wheels straight ahead and then turn or if it comes on as the wheels approach lock. ( BTW, on another topic, still playing with the dash...) Al Not so much turning the wheel quickly, but rather at full ock either side. Reason is, there is an odd sensation that's normal when you have the wheels pointing at either extremes of travel at barely rolling speed. Its almost as if the car jumps and sounds like driving through packed snow. This is all normal and part of the Ackerman steering where one wheel turns further than the other. NP, you don't rush when it comes to these cars ;) pop

Does this happen when you approach full lock on either extreme?

No problem, glad you're up and running again. :cheers: Maybe a small donation to the site if it's all the same to keep the community alive. Happy motoring! Pop

Antenna. It's screwed down under the exterior lower windscreen scuttle cover by a single screw with a cable protruding out from it. It's a thin plate that attaches flat side up. Trouble is, whereas it sounds like a reception problem, i can't imagine how it would have come loose. Maybe they forced water behind the plastic cowling? Probably best to try pulling the fuse to the PCM and reinserting allowing it to reset. Apart from these two, there is the DVD player which houses the gyro and the relevant wires (copper and optical) that run to the PCM rear. Regards Pop

No problem. IIRC, if you're just about within warranty, the OPC will do it for you FOC. Otherwise, i really am not sure what they'll say as the extended warranty is a bugger when it comes to the PCM. Apart from that, i don't think there's any other way. The more popular indi's do have the tester. Regards Pop

If you get the triangles, just ask the OPC to plug in the PIWIS and perform a module discovery. They will then write back the details of you system to the PCM and sort out the error. SHould be non-chargeable. It won't stop you from using the system but its more or a niggling problem than anything else. Version 3.3 is the latest available too. Regards Pop

Chaps, those numbers are not the NAV software versions. They are the software versions of the devices themselves. Also, and this needs confirming because i can't remember this exactly, but the "Target" refers to what component the PCM system is expecting (ie: as programmed) while the "actual" refers to what was detected on the MOST ring. Those with missing Target values, do you also get exclamation marks in triangles next to the entries by any chance? The real software running on the PCM is the number on the top corner of the screen within the special menu as i said earlier. Its this number that the OPC will want to know before they can confirm whether there is indeed an update to your system. Regards Pop

Check out my post on the 987 threads about when I recently changed my oil on the Boxster. Regards, paul... For what exactly? Pop Pop, Sorry for not being specific -- When I recently changed my oil, I put in 7.75L and only got 1 bar to light up. I eventually went with Loren's recommendation and added another 0.75L in 100mL steps after 8L until I got the 3rd bar lit and stayed under or on 8.5L. Regards, paul... Yes, i caught that thread. Its not a big deal really, with moderation being the key. Pop

Check out my post on the 987 threads about when I recently changed my oil on the Boxster. Regards, paul... For what exactly? Pop

Only that its 7.75l capacity with a new filter and when checking, each segment on the display is 0.4l Pop

On the PCM, press the MAIN and TRIP buttons tegether and post back what version the software level is at (top left of the display). Regards Pop

Naughty Naughty.... But, if you remove the side trims and loosen the screws to the tray it should jsut come out. Switches above just pull out too. Pop

Well testing should be easy. If you can pull back enough of the trim, jump in and close the doors and get someone to spray the car with a hose ither at the top of the A-pillar or along the roof line and watch for the drips. Just had a thought: isn't the windscreen washer resevior near there too and didn't they have duff hose clamps? Regards Pop

Yes it is (as in cyan). With the gaitor removed you can just make out the part number which should be 997 424 983 00. Regards Pop

1. SOS works 2. SMS doesn't seem to work, but the documentation says that it works for some phones 3. My dealer, cost $100. But the install is relatively simple: there's a connector that goes to the back of the PCM2 head unit and a fibre optic cable to add to the MOST loop. Lol, i meant where on the car did the installers located the unit? :P Cheers, Pop

How about the door seals? Water tends to make its way placers you'd never believe and could easily track down the door frame if the seals aren't meeting with the door properly. Regards Pop

This is very cool. TMC, any chance you can confirm: - 1. SOS button, does it now work? 2. Mail/SMS. This could be restricted due to carrier but if you were using a GSM mobile, can you compile sms messages and send/receive them through the PCM now? 3. Where did you have the unit installed? Many thanks, Pop

Incidentally, i managed to get hold of a pic of the exact strap and fabric i'm referring to: - So you can see that the strap on the left connects to the upper frame while the fabric to the right pulls on the outer hood. The whole thing keeps the side nice and taut. The problem is with the fabric (3A) creeping upwards onto a protruding section of the brace (visible in the pic) and just above the widest section of the fabric. I suppose that you can directly tell from the pic that loosening the strap by dropping down a screw-hole may fix this in 5 mins but i don't know how this will affect the appearance of the hood from the outside. You may have trouble retracting/opening the hood around the window area or buffeting issues at speed. Pop

Bit fiddly to be honest. I started by removing the plastix torx screws holding down the headliner to the rear-most frame under the rear screen, accessible if you remove the windstop and the honeycomb trim on the roll-over hoop. You can see these plastic screws easily but removing/replacing can be a hassle tbh. Then, i removed the rear trim covering the seatbelt (single screw) and loosened the tension cord that runs the within the outer endge of the hood (another single plastic screw and right in front of you). Then, put the hood in the service position which slacked off the top enough to get at the velcro's along the frame and remove them from the outside. This should give you enough clearance to pull back the headliner from behind the passenger window frame and access the internal straps/fabric. On hindsight, i doubt you'd need to remove the three plastic torx screws as i did to start off since the fault isn't that far back. If you focus on the tension cord and velcro's it should be easy enough. Once you have what you need loose and tied back, you can erect the hood and latch it as normal so to create the tension you need in the frame and straps to diagnose the problem. Pop

For the time being, i used a thin cable tie that was a snug fit within the plastic brace, to reduce the size of that fabric so as not to let it slip out. It worked well and was trouble free, but it seemed to return after the hood was lowered/raised a few times. I intend to have an other shot at it by fixing some smooth tape to the face of the plastic brace so that the fabric will slip down into its normal position as opposed to catching on the protruding edges. I think i've nailed it, so it's just a matter of finding the best remedy now. Will be sure to have a camera this time! :rolleyes: :lol: Regards Pop's

Amazing. Almost a year after i post about it and us all looking for a solution, i finaly got round to having a peek behind the headliner to trace this incredibly annoying rattle/clicking sound that can be heard from almost ear level on either side of the soft top frame. I managed to peel back the internal lining and started to poke around on each component. Everything seemed just fine with no lack of lube at the joints and a solid feeling all round. Almost when i thought it was time to give up i noticed one of the straps connecting to the outer fabric looking a little creased. It's hard to believe, but this was ultimately the cause of the clicking sound. This strap travels diagonally upwards and connects to the upper loop that's above the rear window. The other end comes down towards the passenger glass and connects via a wide and thin piece of fabric, itself connecting to the outer fabric of the soft top. The purpose of this strap+fabric is to keep the side of the canvass flush with the plastic trim and taut. It's under constant tension and only when the hood is in the process of retracting does it let up. From what i can tell, the fabric is meant to rest and move within a plastic brace thats covering the vertical section of the soft top frame that's the main mounting point to the chassis. After a number of operations, the fabric slips out and catches itself on the upper protruding edge of the plastic brace and stays there. So, when driving, the usual miniscule movements of the soft top fabric pulls on this strap that's caught on the plsatic brace and that's how you get your rattles/clicking sound when moving. I tried to be as detailed as possible since i hadn't had a camera to hand. If it turns out that there are a number of people also affected by this i'll try and get a shot to clear things up. Finally, rattle free at last! :lol: Regards Pop's

There are screws either side of the switch module thats covered when the airbag is installed. Actually, i just noticed that you can spot them in the above pics. Regards Popolou

I had a quick look through the pics i took of my install and managed to spot this. You'll have to zoom into it a bit but it shows a large plug that seems to hold the whole thing in tightly. Maybe it will help for the time being, but if you need any further pics of the same thing let me know. Regards Popolou