Schnell Gelb

Thank you Loren. Sorry I posted this in the wrong Section.

Hard reset of the DME. I have a suggestion to reset the DME on my 2001 Boxster S. The procedure would be the same for a 996 and other years of Boxster ? So the issue may be of wide interest. Question is how to do it correctly. Obviously there is a potential to cause great damage. What is the best resource to use to follow to do a Hard Reset of the Bosch Motronic 7.2 DME ,please. This is the best I found but is 997 http://rennlist.com/how-tos/a/porsche-997-how-to-reset-ecu-387425

No, as I mentioned - it was way to smokey in the garage and on the lift, to do the test. Stupid assumption on my part. But hopefully useful for others to learn from. Member Kabra had a similar problem reported elsewhere. It was Intermix ! So I'll hunt for signs of coolant in the oil and v.v .Then three is always the possibility of stupid things like overfilled oil.Yes, I am clutching at straws.

Based on my experiences in the link below, I suggest careful measurement of the inner seal groove diameter and concentricity before fitting anybody's Spark Plug tubes,

Excellent resolution and even better, you shared the story with us.Thank you. There is a similar Thread where the cause of the "Hideous Smoke Bomb" (Member- Kabra) problem on a seldom used car, was not the AOS. It was diagnosed as a version of the expensive Intermix issue

Kabra has mentioned his problem was eventually diagnosed as Intermix. Sad story.

A separate Post to thank you all for your suggestions. I did not want this note of thanks to be buried in the mechanical minutiae . The 1341 code+Deviation involves so many variables that tackling this problem without your support would be very difficult. As I mentioned to Dporto , I am writing a diy guide based on this saga to help others in future. A Thank you to the Forum. Obviously it is not finished yet ! I was slowed down by an AOS failure mentioned in a separate Thread.

My deviation is 14.9 degrees - a world record? This is Crank degrees so at the Cam it is roughly 7.5 deg. That is impossible to detect by eye with the engine in place for Bank 1 on a Boxster.I had to slip my iphone inthe re to take a photo of it to see 'straight on' at the marks. But I agree, the Cam cover has to come off. I suspect the Camshaft Position Sensor is failing or getting bad data as you suggest. How else could the engine run so smoothly and quietly and have a 14,9 deg deviation on one Bank ? DHarn555 chased the Reluctor issue and JFP wisely commented that it would need a gross misalignment to make a difference. SO if this is the problem ,it should be easy to see - when I get the Camshaft Cover off.

If you check the FSM this is not quite correct. The FSM has a drawing showing the notch on the Intake cam slightly higher than horizontal.That drawing is in the epic Insight timing thread already linked. But I agree with you, that bothers me too because mine is exactly like the FSM drawing -it is not quite 3 ,more like 2.45. But as you mention the relationship between the Intake and Exhaust is Factory set by the divots and colored links. Mine is correct in terms of divots and colored links.So it must be other issues.Some links to explain to others follow.Note -use the adjustment tool 9612 NOT the lock tool 9634 to assess the alignment.Yes, use the silver and red tool ! If you look carefully at some of the photos you will see the very slightly misaligned Exhaust cam . Also note that Jake recommends -slacken the 4 adjuster bolts, adjust the Exh cam with the silver+red tool, micro -adjust the crank to align the pin hole(5/16" stubby drill bit but better is the TDC pin 9595 because it has a shoulder on it). Yes, this is the opposite way round to what is often recommended.The reason is that the cams are difficult to rotate(22mm wrench?) - so fix that first. The crank is easy - so do that last. This may also improve the 3p.m. /2.45p.m. problem with the Intake cam notch ? BTW - where is Jake recently? I can understand why he abandoned the other Forums - but it is civilized here ! Thank you Mods!. http://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/717662-camshaft-orientation-pictures.html http://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/672370-engine-rebuild-part-3-the-finale-7.html

I found the AOS was perfect when I dissected it so am wondering about a different diagnosis .The link below is an old post so I have copied some relevant content here for convenience:

For the sake of completeness on this subject ,here is a helpful comment I am quoting from JFP to an AOS question and the Crankcase Vent Valve -part of the system. "The vent valve is rarely involved as when it fails, it tends to shut off or reduce vacuum flow to the crankcase. As they are cheap, if you were to take it out to check it, I would just can in and put in a new one. And by-the-by, it is not at all unusual to have short lived AOS units, particularly if they are non factory. We have had exactly zero luck with aftermarket units and now only use factory. " Part of the AOS replacement procedure should include disconnecting and inspection/oil removal from inside the intake ducts.If this is not done, the residual oil will continue to produce AOS-failure symptoms even with good ,new AOS installed.Ahsai hinted at this above.

Glad you accepted the invitation to join the party :-).

JFP recently helped me with a similar problem. Like you I thought it was just the usual AOS issue so removed it and pondered replacing the crankcase vent valve that you were curious about. Here is what JFP said to help you :" The vent valve is rarely involved as when it fails, it tends to shut off or reduce vacuum flow to the crankcase. As they are cheap, if you were to take it out to check it, I would just can in and put in a new one. And by-the-by, it is not at all unusual to have short lived AOS units, particularly if they are non factory. We have had exactly zero luck with aftermarket units and now only use factory. " My(2001 Boxster S) AOS failed (or so I thought)while doing repeated Durametric tests on the Bank 1 Variocam Actuator+solenoid at 3000 rpm. Clouds of white oily smoke. It is a newly rebuilt engine(but diy so who knows !) See Post "AOS + Crankcase vent valve -replace both ?" Not the ones below which I tried deleting. I am beginning to think you and I have the same problem . Here's why. I carefully dissected the 'defective' fairly new AOS. The diaphragm is perfect. I tested the diaphragm by filling one side of the unit with water to observe leakage. Not even a pin hole. It was a fairly new AOS marked "MHO Germany" 996 107 023 04. It was purchased from Pelican and fitted by the P.O. Is a split diaphragm the only Mode of Failure for the AOS? MHO = Mann Hummel ? But no idea if they are defect prone. Is it possible your 2nd AOS was also defective? Until I read your Post , I never thought of the possibility it was anything but an AOS problem. I also had black .sticky,oily liquid around the exhaust manifold of Bank 1. I removed the manifold and found it also on the metal gasket. Do you have this also? I had assumed this was caused by the AOS failing. Now I am questioning my diagnosis.It was way to smokey to contemplate doing a Manometer test.

Kabra, This is an odd problem and the numbers on the manometer are alarming. Just wondering if any work was done on the engine prior to this problem? If I had this problem ,I would be convinced I fitted something the wrong way round , left a hose off. broke something accidentally. Thinking this through = the bomb as you call it is produced by combustion pressure blowing into the crankcase when hot but not when cold .But you have excellent compression on all cylinders when cold. Something changes when the engine reaches full operating temperature. What ? It would be difficult, but could you do either a blowby or compression test when hot ? You might want to visit David Allen ? https://konceptmotorwurks.com/

I am sorry your feelings were hurt. You were given advice,and asked questions .You did not respond. THAT is what wastes our efforts to help you. People in this Thread are now repeating questions to you because you haven't answered. Our first obligation is to do no harm.Hence my recommendation to use an Auto Electrician since you lack the FSM(or alternative) and a high amp DMM. Which is why I recommended you spend 10 -20 minutes of Diagnostic time with an Auto Electrician. You have a huge current draw but no blown fuses. That is potentially dangerous.Maybe someone put a high amp fuse where there should be a low amp one? You haven't mentioned using the Fuse Legend !.And btw I have literally thousands of Posts under various names on multiple Porsche Forums helping people -particularly those who answer our questions and respond.It is considered good Forum etiquette. Please understand we can't mind read or diagnose your DME or electrical connections remotely.It is just speculation w/o the facts.You need to help us by responding to specific questions. The smarter people on the Forums just won't even participate when they see Posts like yours, so help yourself - answer the questions so we can help you. Sympathy won't fix your problem.But answers to our questions might.

This Post appears on several other Forums (with different monikers)where most help generously offered was ignored or not understood. As other posts indicate ,flailing with the sensitive electrics without the manual and the DMM and automotive knowledge is leading the Poster into a potential expensive mistake. There are lots of competent ,honest Auto Electricians in city the size of London who would charge 10-20 minutes of Diagnostic time to identify the cause of the fault. Why not use them instead of signing up for several Forums and getting people literally all over the world to speculate on partial(t best !) information? Why not ask on a U.K. Forum for a referral to an Indie? Or at least indicate a generic Parasitic Drain test has been done - plenty on Youtube.

I re-chcecked the Timing for Bank 1 - perfect. Removed the scavenge pump for Bank 1 to do a visual & physical check. The 4 x M6 bolts are tight on the exhaust sprocket.They are in the middle of the slots.The chain seems tight when pushed with a screwdriver (engine is still in the car-so far!). The CAMshaft Position Sensor is connected and secure. A loose CAMshaft Position Sensor could cause aberrant readings perhaps? I do not have the code for a failing CAMshaft Position Sensor- which are 1397, 0341 & others I am still puzzled about the connection (if any) between the lack of response from Bank 1 Variocam Actuator to a prompt from Durametric to advance and the alarmingly high Position 1 Deviation of 14.9 degrees shown on Durametric at idle. Position 2 is perfect.Bank 2 Actual Values are also perfect. Bank 1 is the only problem. I have read many similar Posts multiple times and 14.9 degrees is a record extreme reading. We usually find Deviation discussed with IMSB failure. This is a newly rebuilt engine with a new IMSB. So presumably there is a discrepancy (noted by the DME) between what the CRANKshaft Position Sensor reads and what the CAMshaft Position Sensor should read ? So it sets Code 1341. Since the problem only affects Bank 1 , I presume that the Crankshaft sensor is O.K. but the Bank 1 Camshaft sensor maybe in pre-code-setting failure.Yes, a bit of a stretch. Replace the Cam sensor anyway ? I have to replace the AOS and that has to be removed to access Bank 1 Cam sensor so, 'while I am in there'....I'll replace it. HINT - if you remove the AOS to replace the CAMsensor on Bank 1 -please plug the big hole left by removing the AOS from the crankcase half. The 5mm Allen screw that holds the Cam Sensor may fall in there .Can you imagine.......? The only other WAG is the Timing Chain Tensioner for Bank 1. For my 2001 S there was a minor (?) upgrade to the Tensioner, There was a more significant upgrade to the IMS-to-Crankshaft Tensioner. I am skeptical that the Bank 1 Chain Tensioer is defective because with the engine off for several days it seems to be keeping the Bank 1 chain tight. Nevertheless I removed it to inspect.It was pumped up and the spring was very strong .The part number for the latest Bank 1 Tensioner is 996-105-186-02 .The superseded part ended -01.Here is a RennTech link that discusses the issue. It may fix a rattle at start up but no other substantial differences? I hope all these links are helping others who follow this path See Post 14 here for Part numbers and Part drawings: http://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/554040-chain-tensioner-or-chain-adjuster.html

Thanks JFP. The AOS was installed by the cheapskate P.O. and sourced from Pelican ,so probably URO brand a.k.a. U Replace Often.When I extract it I'll confirm The AOS and many other parts are listed in my email order to Jeff Clark @ Sunset.I just got an email from Sunset Parts. No mention of Jeff Clark any more. William is the Mgr ,then there is : Bob, Sean, Luke & Futty

What did the SOH and SOC test indicate ?- We need actual values. Some parts stores will do this test free.

AOS - premature failure. How prevalent is a failure of the Crankcase Ventilation Valve part # 996 107 047 51, in accelerating the failure of the AOS ? I ask because I found a comment that this could be the case but the majority of AOS posts never mention the Crankcase Vent Valve. Is it a good idea to remove and clean the Vent valve following an AOS smoke-bomb event ? Just use gasoline to flush out the oil ? Any specific test to check the function of the Valve ? Thanks for any experiences shared.

The 996 guys have different constraints & techniques for dropping the M96. The Boxster engine is unfortunately less accessible,more time consuming to remove but the need is often more compelling than for the 996 because of access issues. The big debate has always been drop the engine with or without the trans.- as single unit or separately. The choice can be influenced by equipment, experience or ignorance of the issues ! I am about to drop the engine for the 2nd time (!) and am determined to learn something new. Here is a proposal that needs critiquing by the experienced wrenchers among you. The 3 part video on YouTube "Jet 1" by Roaring Tigers is still the best engine drop video so far. They removed engine+trans but no suspension and used a 2 post lift + hydraulic table like other Pros.These links below give you the specifics, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OZvWOZTa42E Spec Boxster Build Hydraulic Lift Cart -like this: https://www.amazon.com/Double-Scissor-Hydraulic-Capacity-Height/dp/B00P5UOCZO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480988397&sr=8-1&keywords=lift+cart+770 or https://www.amazon.com/Vestil-CART-1000-TS-Hydraulic-Elevating-Capacity/dp/B001VXWIS2 or http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lbs-capacity-hydraulic-table-cart-69148.html One of the problems with dropping the engine+trans as a complete unit is that the rear suspension cross member must be removed .This causes the rear suspension to "spread" apart.Solution - just use some very strong ratchet straps to pull it back together and get a 4 wheel alignment quickly after you reinstall the engine + trans.! The confusion in this "How to drop a Boxster engine" discussion is because we muddle the two big but distinct parts of the complete task of dropping. The part we probably agree on is that disconnecting all the hoses.cables ,connectors and linkages is best done with a 2 post lift.The next easy part is the unbolting of the front engine mount nuts and removal of the transmission mounts. The differences come in the lowering the liberated engine+trans from the car - safely. The big question is - if the engine+trans is still 6+ feet off the ground on a 2 post lift - how are you safely lowering it ? Last time I dropped the 6 speed gearbox and then the engine separately from 6 feet+ using a massive Wudel Trans jack- It worked but it is not designed for the 36"+ length of the combined engine+trans ( unbalanced fore/aft weight).It is designed for old domestic auto transmissions. Alternative - suppose the car isn't way up high - suppose it is at Hydraulic-Cart-height - around 36 - 48 " off the ground-like the Jet 1 video.Note they used a cart that was barely long enough. You would need to crawl (literally)around underneath to remove the front engine mount and 2 trans mounts(but easy). You also need to stay there while the cart is lowered or the lift raised to deal with all the hang-ups (requires a competent,reliable helper). Example of hang-ups - the fuel flow & return lines are hooked over the E-brake cable on the firewall, the brittle oil filler tube and the dipstick tube. These are examples of the tedious details seldom mentioned but are a real nuisance if you are unaware of them.Jet busted some of these. If you decide to try the hydraulic cart+ 2 post lift method - which cart did you buy and did it work well ? Hydraulic carts that are long enough for the engine+trans and have sufficient weight capacity are around $800(see links above) - I used as a benchmark- the "Vestil CART-1000-TS". It has a table length almost 48". You'll need to make a wood cradle to prevent the engine+trans rolling sideways off the cart and to avoid crushing the headers(separate post subject). The alternative to discuss is the HF Motorcycle Lift Table .No, not the little ATVJack that the 996 guys often use, the m/c Lift TABLE It is 1000 lbs capacity,with a coupon is $299 (search hard !)It is HF Item # 68892. !Motorcycle Lift Table, 1000 Lb. Capacity It has 4 big, steel, retractable casters, is plenty long(remove the flappy ramp- just 2 pins) and use the tire vise to clamp the trans. Problems - 1. It does not lift/lower exactly vertically.It moves diagonally. But it is on casters so no problem? 2. it is HF ! so get the warranty - or spend an extra $500 on the cart linked above ? 3. The HF 68892 is only 29" high max (see crawling above !) - so make a tall cradle that avoids the need to remove the headers.! Wood is cheap. 4.Where do you store it after use? Sell it for $300 and buy another if you need to? What do you think ? Have you used this exact method? What am I missing?

Mr. Cheetah the tool maker(?)(odious name for an on-line business !) seems to be back.Ahsai's link works now: http://www.cheetahonline.com/products-page/custom-work/rsmtool/

" If it were in my shop, I'd drop the engine " oh, if only it was there :-) ! Before dismantling I decided to make one last Durametric test. Now is throws an 0301 Misfire code. Despite all new coils,plugs and spark plug tubes. Decide it must be because of the peculiar Position 1 deviation and the apparent Variocam malfunction. Yes, I realize that logic is feeble. But after rebuilding this engine over years and thousands of $, the alternative is to abandon the car. During the last test the fairly new AOS failed ! I found a thread with the 1341 code that was repaired by Jake Raby some time ago. The cause was a tiny amount of debris plugging the actuator. That is quite possible in my case also. An optimistic explanation for this case also. Or more time and money down the drain ! Time will tell. One point of confusion I have about Terminology with Durametric - Deviation is measured at Position 1 and Position 2. Actual Values Angles are Bank 1 & 2. What exactly is the difference between the Positions ,where are these Positions- is it just another term for "Bank" ?

We've discussed this many times elsewhere but you got the answer in one Post already :-) There are inexpensive test meters that will show "S.O.H." and "S.O.C." (google) but just buy a new battery AGM imho. You also need a Cteck MUS 4.3 .Amazon .Porsche also sell it for x2 ! Use it over summer to try to use it to revive your old battery The Cteck will 'pulse' and this may improve the sulphation The SOH test will confirm. Use the old battery on your old maintainer next winter as your emergency slave battery. Plug the Cteck into the cig lighter socket over winter. Some really smart P-Car experts do this with their customer cars "-)