Cassiebox

You would've gotten a CEL for the MAF regardless of de-snork or not (the snork is just a muffler and has little bearing unless you have an aftermarket intake). Sounds like MAF might be on it's way out. Clean it up and see if it'll go away or just un-plug it and reset the CEL to see if it's truly bad or not. If it's bad, just order a new one online for $200 or less. It's a 5 min DIY to replace. Good luck and enjoy the sound!

means you pulled out the intake's sound muffler on a 986. makes the engine sound much more aggressive especially at 4K RPMs and higher. Negligible sound increase at idle. Takes less than 10 min to do Here's a link to one set of instructions: http://www.ppbb.com/boards/ppbbphp/showthr...&sb=&o= I'm sure others can be found in the archives here. It's really only for the 986 as w/ the 987 it's been reported (unofficially) your mileage will be dramatically reduced.

Not sure which gasket you need - but here's a link to the parts diagram for the clamshell on Pelican Parts (with the part # listed). Grab the p/n you need and call your local dealer, a site sponsor, Pelican, Suncoast or Sunset (<-usually the cheapest in my experience) to get it. Good luck! http://www.pelicanparts.com/PartsLookup/HT...1-13-Frame3.htm

Sorry, can't help w/ the code, but once you have the radio removed, push in the blue clip on either side to release the keys before putting the h/u back in. Also, instead of slicing your fingers off (it requires a 'fair' amount of force to pull the radio out) drop a screwdriver into each key and pull on the screwdrivers instead. Good luck!

no - code is for the head unit itself

If they won't do it for you, just DIY. It takes all of 6-10 mins start to finish. Stefan and I timed it TY when we did mine and a few other cars at a tech session in early June.

Don't spend the time or $ on a second housing - just find a local member who has a SSK and try it out. You'll either love or hate it (love most likely) w/in a minute or two. I, like you, was worried and bought a second housing as I didn't know any local 986 owners (at the time) w/ a SSK . Needless to say, when I installed my SSK, the OEM shifter housing went on eBay the very next day. BTW, if you don't love the SSK in a 986, then you might look for an OEM 987 (or 997) shift housing (a few on eBay right now). I've heard some say it's a nice step in between the OEM and a SSK in the 986 - food for thought I suppose.

Good to know. Presume the updates are mostly additions to and maybe an occasional deletion which is no longer available, right? Or is there something more pertinent?

any reason you don't want to stick w/ what Porsche recommends (Mobil 1 0W40)? Here's a list of approved ones though http://www.wrightune.co.uk/downloads/approved_oils.pdf

From the owner's manual (986) "A double horn signal during locking indicates a defect in the central locking or alarm system. Have the defect remedied at an authorized Porsche Dealer." Sorry, but suspect it's an issue w/ the micro switch - again. Does it do it when you have the top open (and w/out a red clip in place)? If so, that's your problem again...

It is clips into the spot where your soft top connects to the windsheild frame top (if it were closed). Here's a picture

indeed there is - the S rotors are bigger and thicker (along w/ calipers). I don't have my manual in front of me, but I recall #s around the following for thickness: Boxster pads- new f - 24mm new r - 20mm Boxster S pads- new f - 28mm new r - 24mm The diameter will also be bigger on the S rotors compared to std.

According to the Bentley manual, the antenna is amplified. BN/BU wire would be the alarm contact (per below). I just sent you a PM as I have a full scanned copy of the radio schematic for an '01 which will help you. Not sure I can post it here directly since it's not my material. ;)

It has to do w/ the frequency the remote operates on. The antenna length needs to be an inverse function of it to maximize as I understand. Here is the guide per the TSB as some countries remotes operate on different frequencies: - for a frequency of 315 MHz: 130 mm (USA/Canada/Mexico/Australia/Japan/Hong Kong) - for a frequency of 433 MHz: 100 mm (all other countries) Sometimes you can get away w/ just pulling 130mm outside of the foam tape. On other cars, you need to measure from the end of the black sheathing to get it to function correctly. I guess it kind of depends on how long of a white wire w/out sheathing is in your car. Try just moving it outside the foam first. If that works, then you're good to go - if not, redo it measuring from the end of the black shield. Enjoy your new extended remote. As someone said previously to me... it's called a remote, not a "right next to" :D

itzbob46- just sent you a PM about the Bentley manual which IMHO is pretty good. Enjoy your new to you Boxster.

yep - easy to replace lighter w/ US spec one. Just did mine in my '99. Here's what you need: 996-652-101-10-A05 Socket 996-652-102-10 Lighted retaining ring $8.05 for socket, $4.30 for ring (from Sunset imports) Takes all of 5 min to replace.

Lyn- you are correct. If you have the 6 channel amp you can forgo pulling the radio out. I have a '99 which I transplanted a 6x40W amp from a 996 into and did not need to pull it out. The only reason you might want to is for more working room while feeding the speaker wires from the passenger footwell across the console to the driver's footwell. Otherwise, leave it alone (not that it's that hard to remove - Harvey gives you the keys with the kit). Good luck!

Nah, shouldn't be an issue at all especially if you are not noticing any difference in the where the clutch engages, etc. On my '99, the pedal creaks occasionally depending on humidity - might just need a squirt of some lubricant on the spring or plunger (search the archives). 48K miles, unless you ride the clutch a lot, is nothing. There are guys w/ 160K plus on their original clutch. I'd crawl under there using a screwdriver as a stethoscope and try and isolate where the creak is coming from when manually depressing the clutch. Good luck!

There are 2 metal clips on the side. Push them out and then slide the tray out. It will slide out in two stages (like rollers on a cabinet drawer) which just the cover and plastic first and then the filter slides out in part 2. Easy to do. Box is on the left side of the car shown here in top of picture (rectangular box with label on it) Remove old filter. Suggest you also vacuum down inside the air filter box (use and extension to get way down in there). Drop in new engine air filter. Slide closed and re-fasten clips. Will take you 2min at most once you have the engine bay opened up.

blue200s - good catch, I didn't notice that as I was scrambling to find pictures using search engines (too lazy to go to garage and shoot my OEM plastic shifter and the B&M SSK in my car). I guess that's another way he could tell if he has the SSK or not - the pivot point, huh?

erics- IIRC, the 550 did come w/ an SSK that was both a B&M type plus it had a shortened shaft - but I could be wrong. If it only has the shortened shaft, then just put in a B&M short shifter and use a dremel cut off wheel to shorten the shaft about 1-1.5"s and then shape the top of it to match the OEM. One easy way to tell if your 550 has a SSK is to pull up the knob boot and take a peak. Factory 'regular' shifters are plastic and have white bushings on either end. The SSKs are metal (usually blue or black) and have metal bushings on the end w/ a plastic insert. Here are some pix to help: OEM - Plastic (minus the green adjusting tool shown on top SSK Hope this helps!

just replied to you over on 986forum

Lyn- We do not have the same h/u. I'm just familiar w/ your model #. Anyhow, I used the following to upgrade my sound system: -PNP rear speaker kit -transplanted a 6x40 amp from a 996 to power the rears (mine only came w/ a 4x40 amp) -changed dash speakers to infinity reference 4" coaxials -made custom baffles for doors and put in Infinity Kappa 6.75" drivers I'm not an audiophile by any stretch and there certainly are much better speakers out there. But these sound great compared to the stock crap (paper cones and all). Good luck and have doing your upgrades!

I crossed back over this thread tonight and realized I never posted here the link to the baffle template I created. I did post it on the wiki last fall but forgot to double back here, sorry. Anyhow, here is the link to it on the wiki: http://boxster.wikia.com/images/b/bf/Door_...le_Template.pdf And also a direct copy here. Good luck and enjoy your new sound systems as they are definitely worth the effort! Door_Baffle_Template.pdf

I'm not 100%, but 99% certain you have a 6 channel amp that would be 40W per channel. You can easily add the PNP kit and drive them w/ this amp. Andy's speakers will work w/ your system. However, I'd recommend finding/using door speakers that are better matched to your amp's ratings. Since it's 40W peak from the amp, you'll want to look for speakers that can go 45Hz or lower, have a high sensitivity rating (like 91dB or higher), 2 Ohm and have a RMS rating of 2-40W (or higher on the top range # if need be). Couple reasons for this: 1. any speakers rated w/ RMS higher (on the low #) will not be able to maximize the power given to it by the amp to produce good low end (bass) - especially at softer volume levels 2. (VERY IMPORTANT REASON) your system's architecture (based on MY and your h/u) is the MOST fiber optic system. So unlike Andy's (or my) system, you cannot upgrade to a better amp w/out either getting a MOST (fiber-optic) capable amp (not too many out there - if any anymore) or by replacing the head unit too and re-wiring everything from the h/u to the amp. For the baffles, I put on the wiki last fall a template for making the door baffles. Definitely works on a '99 and should work for yours too but usual discalimers apply. My template does not require any extra drilling and utilizes the OEM screws and hole locations. Use Andy's instructions for everything else including the wood size etc. but I think you'll like the template I created. Here is the link: http://boxster.wikia.com/images/b/bf/Door_...le_Template.pdf FWIW, from the amp to the speakers, your system is the exact same - meaning copper wire not fiberoptics. Also, if you get a crossover w/ your new speakers, which you probably will, you do not need to use it. Just wire directly up to the woofers on your new speakers and leave the tweeters as decoration. The OEM amp has a low pass filter built in so your tweeters wount get any power anyhow. I'm not sure of it's cut-off point but in any case there is no need to mess around trying to locate a place to put in the crossover. Good luck and enjoy your new sound system! It's really worth upgrading.