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986Jim

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Everything posted by 986Jim

  1. OK, so I'm changing my oil and when I poped out the old filter there is this plastic thing that fits into one end of the filter and has a spring and cap on it. It looks like a anti-drainback valve or oil by-pass valve. Nothing in all the oil and filter changes talks about this piece, it's not in my bently manual either. What is this thing, is it aftermarket or something? Tool pants, loren???? Anybody help! I'm stuck right now.
  2. I posted a pic of a Porsche airbag that looked like a pair of boobs in the lounge at 986online and the dumbass that owns it banned me for it. What a dip**** he is.
  3. It's not a K&N filter its something else. I can't figure out what it is myself. I was thinking about measuring the filter then going through my K&N filter catalogue and ordering something that was close. Check this page: http://www.knfilters.com/search/univcone.aspx It has a 3" ID and is about 5" at the larger end and say 3" at the smaller end and 5 or 6 inches long based on my memory of my filter. Maybe something like this? http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=RF-1039 http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=RU-5111 If your car is handy pull out the filter and give the measurements and let us know. I would like to order a new one myself.
  4. I have a cat. He is sitting beside me right now looking at me. If he pissed on my car I would be drowning his *** in the toilet and burying the evidence in the backyard never mind if it was a neighbors cat. If the cat did damage to the top on the car you should be asking for them to pay for the cleaning cost and or replacement of the top if it doesn't come out. They are responsible for the damage their pets cause to others property no matter how you slice it.
  5. Yeah, don't go swapping the fluid out unless you know for sure that everything else with mounts and linkage is good. Chances are you will find that it is however. I have seen cases where we have changed fluid in a tranny and a tranny that never previously had grinding problems would all the sudden start to grind. Even when changed with Redline MTL or Light Weight Shock Proof which is supposed to be "the bomb", they started to grind. In any case where the car old and has seen a few track events we always keep the original oil just incase. There have been a few cases where we drained the new oil and poured back in the old oil. For some unknown reason, as soon as the original oil is back in the grinding will eventually go away, like the tranny is broken into that oil and it can't be changed. As strange as it sounds, it's the case in older cars that have seen a few track or drag events. So when you change yours make sure to keep it just incase. Goto your local GM dealership and order 2-3 liters of the Syncromesh, should be about $12-14 each L.
  6. Change out the fluid to GM Syncromesh fluid. It's basically the savior of tranny's. Yeah it's GM, but seriously the stuff is gold. Many guys come with tranny's in exactly the same condition as you say, I swap out the fluid for GM Syncromesh fluid and within a week or so of driving nice the tranny doesn't grind anymore. It's made by Penzoil for GM specifically for their crappy trannies that grind all the time. Any fluid that is not snake oil, this is it. http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showt...;threadid=24048 etc. etc. etc.. Just google GM Syncromesh for 10,000 examples of it saving trannies...
  7. I saw those, but they don't really look right. I ended up just buying OEM red/clears from Suncoast for my car instead of fancy led lights. Something about them screamed Riceboy to me...
  8. On a boxster yes because they are open deck where the cylinder is surrounded by a collant passage. On a closed deck motor (supra, dsm and other iron block cars) not always. You can blow the hg into a coolant port, and have it small enough that you don't see the coolant burning. When the cylinders are in vacuum it will suck coolant into the cylinder, but not enough so you don't see it burn out the exhaust, during pressurization of the cylinder (combustion cycle) air will leak from the cylinder into the coolant system. You will never see the coolant burning but with enough cycles of the engine small amounts of air are added to the coolant each time. Eventually something's gonna give. With enough boost or HP generally what happens is you blow the HG into a coolant port and coolant comes gushing in like crazy and thats when you see the huge James Bond style smoke screen behind the car. In that case you would never drive far enough to pressurize the system enough to blow the coolant tank. We blew the HG on my dads maxima (makes 291whp all motor runs 12.4 @ 114 all motor) and one of the back 3 was totally dead, I mean 0 compression, the compression tester wouldn't even move. The car didn't smoke at all though and we were able to normally drive the car all the way home from the track (over 3 hour drive) and it honestly drove almost like normal. The whole cylinder was totally dead the whole time. By the time we got home the coolant system was under a lot of pressure from the air in the system tho. We have a cap on the car with a leaver on it which you flick to releive the pressure but not let coolant out, pretty handy. They are not that bad. I have done cams on a VQ35 (350z) which has a chain setup similar and it wasn’t that bad. I re-re’d the whole setup in around 3 hours having never done it before. Somebody with good mechanical skills to could do a HG on these cars in pretty short order I think. I have never done it so I really can’t say how easily, however I did a HG on the VQ35 as well and did it in 10 hours which included a lot of standing around and head scratching time. If I had to do it over again, would be faster. It looks complicated until you do it once or twice, then it's not that intimidating. I still maintain that you can fix it cheaper than putting in a new engine. A motor is $4000 plus labor to re-re the motor. So for $4000 you should be able to easily do a HG figuring the same labor to pull the motor out and put it back in. There is no way the labor to change a HG on one side of the engine is more than $4000 the cost for a new motor. Even if the job took 20 hours it would still be cheaper than a new motor, no matter house you do the math. Attached is the Boxster chain vs. the VQ35. Pretty similar and took me 3 hours to re-re it during a cam install. The VQ has variable timing on the gears just like a porsche does with variocam.
  9. Having a blown head gasket will not make white smoke pour out the exhaust. It depends where the HG blew, between two cylinders will not cause white smoke, just low compression and poor running. A HG doesn't always blow to a coolant port. You can also blow the HG to a coolant port and not have coolant pour into the cylinder, only small amounts of air bleed from the cylinder into the coolant system causing pressure to build in the coolant tank pushing coolant out the expansion tank all the time. Also you can burn a descent amount of coolant with no white color in the exhaust. My talon blows the HG at least once a year because of making 500hp and running 26-30psi of boost. Thats life, you change it and go on. It's not really that big a deal. I o-ringed the block and run a cometic gasket now which fixed the problem. If you have a blown hg, drop the engine pull the head and change the gasket, so what. I have done head gaskets on my talon in an afternoon and been back driving it that night. Even with pulling the engine and not having done it before, depending on special tools, it should be able to be done in pretty short order. I would still run an OEM gasket (unless cometic makes one which would be nice) and swap out the stock studs with ARP again if made, otherwise run new OEM units. The rest of the stuff is just a re-re would isn't that big a deal. You should be able to do a HG for around $1000 bux even if somebody else is doing it. There is no reason to buy a new engine because the hg blew. That would be like buying a new engine because the RMS leaks (unless it's ovalized and causing the leak). http://www.racepages.com/parts/head_gasket/porsche.html - About $50 for the gasket.
  10. The shop is probably saying 1500 for the pair not each, that is a typical price for them all over the place. The dealer is higher but thats normal isn't it?
  11. Nice sounds like your excited! I have an Evo Intake, just ordered an Exhaust system and will be ordering headers shortly, this makes me excited to get it all done.
  12. I found the luk for 550 here http://www.carolinaclutch.com/ShowItem/105907.aspx Look around more you may find it cheaper. I just googled Boxster Flywheel and looked at a few that came up.
  13. No not really it will just glaze it over. They just turn the flywheel the same as rotors and slap on a new pressure plate and disc and your all good. Jim, What causes a flywheel to go out of balance and cause a vibration at a certain RPM range? Especially considering no clutch slip or anything - any ideas? This generally doesn't happen. OEM motors are not balanced from the factory, by that I mean the crank is but no other part of the rotating assembly is. Generally on a race motor the crank, rods and pistons are all balanced. The machinist will grind off small parts of metal on each to make them all weigh the same. You don’t need to full balance a motor unless you have serious hp or serious RPM. Some may argue that OEM motors are balanced but in a race motor where everything is exact, that is balanced, what OEM does doesn’t really compare. Basically what that huge run-on sentence is saying is that it's not balanced from factory but is close enough that it you should never feel it. If it goes out of balance then something seriously has gone wrong with it. Either it has been surfaced too much and too much material is gone, surfaced incorrectly so it's thinner on one side than the other. During the machining process there are two ways of doing it. Most common is putting it on a machine that keeps the flywheel still and a machine goes around it and plains the top or fly cuts it. The other way I have seen is on a lathe. Most flywheels have a step which is the height different between the surface the clutch rides on vs. the side where the basket of the pressure plate bolts to. If you machine one you must machine the other so they distance between the two is always constant. If you were only to machine the surface of the flywheel where the clutch touches then it would create a larger gap inside the clutch as eventually it would be totally flat with no "step" at all. If any of this is done improperly it will put the flywheel out of balance. There are two ways of balancing an engine. Either zero balanced inside the motor so you just zero balance the flywheel so everything is fully balanced regardless if it's together or not. The other way is called the Detroit way where the flywheel is balanced offsetting the balance of the engine so when appart the engine and flywheel are not balanced, but together they are balanced. Most import engines and race engines are all zero balanced incase something happens to the flywheel you can just zero another one and put it on vs. balancing the whole rotating assembly again. Typically your flywheel should never go out of balance if it's all OEM and has not been machined. If it feels like it has, generally it's the pulley on the other side of the engine that runs all the accessories. Most pulleys have a rubber balancer or harmonic dampener inside of them. If this rubber rips or starts to rip it will cause the balance of the pulley to go oblong and get out of balance. Eventually the rubber rips all the way around and the pulley rips into two pieces sending belts flying all over the place. It has to be pretty bad for this to happen. Looking in my Bentley I can't tell if a Boxster has a two piece pulley or not, I have never pulled one off so I'm not sure.. Most of what I'm referring to here is all import race car based not really Porsche information so if any doesn't apply here that’s why. It's more general info for inquiring minds.
  14. No not really it will just glaze it over. They just turn the flywheel the same as rotors and slap on a new pressure plate and disc and your all good.
  15. Its a slot so you can visually examine the clutch and flywheel. If you spray WD40 in there you will contaminate the clutch as already stated it will get on the material causing it to slip and eventually fail, so don't be doing that. Just leave it be.
  16. If you have the H&R already don't buy the full M030. Just buy some shocks of whatever brand you want to match your H&R's and buy the M030 sways for the F&R... You can ask around about shocks what is the best to run, I have had and liked KYB AGX and Koni Yellows. The AGX are adjustable and cheaper, the Yellows also adjustable and better but more expensive. That way your not buying parts you need to later sell, though the M030 springs only would prob be an easy sell. You can also get whatever sway bar you want instead of the M030, Suspension Techniques makes a full set as does Eibach.
  17. Which I'm pretty sure is exactly what I said. Doing a brake style on a Chassis dyno is commonly referred to as a Run Down by people who operate and tune on them which I explained in my post.
  18. Just to clarify a few things on Clubhead's post... BHP is Brake Horsepower which refers to the HP at the crank without the loss in power caused by the gearbox, generator, differential, water pump, and other auxiliary components. You're running the car on a chassis dyno which measures Wheel HP. If your wheel hp (whp) is 239.6 then your BHP with say a 15% driveline loss included is (bhp / 0.85) 281.8bhp. Also it would be interesting to know if your using a Dynojet, Mustang, Dynapak or Clayton dyno? If your using a mustang they always read lower than a dynojet does. 15% driveline loss is a generally accepted method of calculating your BHP. I have completed "run down" tests on a few of my cars to calculate the loss between the wheels and crank by powering up the dyno to max rpm in 3rd then letting the dyno run while the car is in gear and again while it's out of gear. The run down time lets you calculate an approximate of the driveline loss. The few cars I have done were all around 13-14% or so is. This also doesn't take into account the aux pumps etc.. 100 there = 94 here. 100 Octane in Malaysia based on the RON method is 94 octane here based on the R+M/2 method, so he's not running any fancy type of gas that we don't have. Thanks for doing that and sharing your results it's interesting to see the Dansk made power over the Porsche Tequipment exhaust, I wouldn't have thought that would happen.
  19. Wow awesome write up, thanks for that. Really changes my mind about my suspension setup.
  20. Try cleaning it again, but 1123 and 1125 are maf releated. It's not seeing the proper amount of air and will either need to be cleaned again and code reset (try that first) or you will have to buy a new one. The reason it's an O2 sensor code as the o2 sensors are trying to adapt to the rich reading and are trying to lean out the mixture as much as they can but can't so your getting a lean treshold code as they just can't do anymore. Maf's fail all the time on cars like ours. The Toyota Celica has a maf in the intake tube almost like a Porsche. When they put on intake their maf fails all the time too. Everybody says its the maf and oiled filters etc but it seems that everytime the maf is distrubed from it's slumber and moved around and switched to a new pipe the jossling causes it to fail and they need to clean or buy a new one as well.
  21. I don't have pics handy, however when we put seats into Miatas we have to use part of the sparco rail and weld it to part of teh stock slider to get the seats to sit low enough in the car. The aftermarket rails have the seats sitting really high which is crazy you can't acctually drive or feel comfortable like that. We took the stock rail and cut off the stock seat mounting positions. We then took the Sparco rail and cut off the mounting points. Then lined up the sparco seat with the stock rail and screwed in the mounting points to the new seat to see where they will need to be on the rail to get the seat lined up properly. THen mark them tabs to the rail. Pull it all out and weld the tabs onto the stock seat rail and paint it all up. Then install the seat. It my Eagle Talon, I didn't want the seat in the car perminately only for racing and weight reduction (I raced Honda's in the 2300lbs area so I needed all the reduction I can get in ol lardy there with AWD..) so I made a fixed seat rail that just put the seat in the position for me with no slider. I would just plop the seat in the car when I went racing and pull it out afterwards for my nice comfy leather during regular driving. It was only me in the seat so not being able to move it didn't matter. I just made the rail out of the steel cross bar and drilled holes in it for the floor and seat base. I made it too low acctually and looked like an 8 year old in the car, but it worked really well.
  22. Exactly as you said. They see 400 deg easily and that will not bother them at all. Don't coat anything that moves and scrape off the excess anywhere it shouldn't be. Other then that your on the money. Besides 10 mins at 400 won't get the metal all that hot as it's convection heat which will not move that much heat into the caliper in only 10 mins. Conduction like having the heat from the brake warm the calipers will heat up the metal way faster as it's direct contact transfer. Not only that, aluminum will cool very quickly once taken away from the heat source. They can handle that no problem.
  23. Argue it now. Proven 5whp and 3ft/lbs of torque gain. http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=75281 I posted this on Rennlist as well. Bisi is a well known Tuner/Racer in the import drag racing circut and has a lot of product development and tuning under his belt. His all motor soch Crx goes well into the 9's. If it can go fast, he has done it.
  24. Lol thanks for the reply, very informative. :rolleyes: 5mm spacer is fine with the stock lug nuts. Been done 10,000 times before with 0 problems. Wish to continue this argument at all? Maybe you can re-read tool pants and my posts. Regards,
  25. Unless a spring pops out of the disc or the fingers on the pressure plate break it will not go "pop". When a clutch wears out what will happen is at low rpm in 5th gear if you floor it going up a hill, it will start to slip and rpm will go up but the car will not accelerate. Whats happening is the clutch and flywheel are moving at different speeds (the same as when your releasing the clutch from a light) and it will start to slowly polish and basically smoke the clutch. Once 5th starts slipping all the time, 4th will start next, and then 3rd etc till your slipping no matter when and how lightly you push the clutch. One you slip in 5th it would take about 2-3k miles for it to start to slip down into 3rd where the car wouldn't be drivable easily anymore. If that starts to happen you will have much advanced warning that something is about to go.
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