986Jim

What on the Porsche approved list is who Porsche is currently in bed with. When somebody pisses them off, they go off the approved list lol..

So a long time ago I posted about this and look I did it myself http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=10247 Who cares if it's illegal, so is speeding and we ALL do that, thats why we have Porsche's... Think they don't look or work right? Look at the pics in my post. They are perfect on my car. The light pattern and beem is exactly the same as the halogen beem and light on the road. It's just nice HID light instead of halogen light with absolutly NO variation. Happy Saturday morning!

Why don't you just flip the drivers seat forward when you get out (so it touches the steering wheel) that keeps the sun off it and it's not scorching hot when you get in the car... Seems pretty simple to me?

Notice that the Caymen has a base spoiler, at the same angle as the riser spoiler. The two work together to direct the airflow up off the deck lid at speed. Putting the riser spoiler alone on a Boxster would not acheive the same aerodynamic affect ,since the second spoiler is missing. . . Of course, if looks are the only concern, I guess it doesn't really matter. This is true, however a boxster is only capable of 159 or so MPH which is pretty slow. I doubt a spoiler or no spoiler would make any difference on a car with that low of a top speed. It might be slightly more stable but it's not like the effect of a spoiler on a 175mph car.

Mine does too... Here is a quick clip. Keep in mind that with the stock intake you couldn't even hear it the video, and de-snorkled you could only hear it very slightly over the wind noise. Just to give you comparison on how much louder the Evo is. I love the sound and feel that it has given a HP increase across the board. I own some fast car and am not just thinking it's faster because it's louder. I felt better throttle response and mid corner if I puch it the back end comes out a lot easier now from increase throttle response.

Acctually this is not true, All the B and D and H series engines right upto 2004 when the K series engine was introduced all spun backwards. It was not until the new K series engine which has the transmission on the drivers side like a normal FWD car did they spin the proper way. A D series from a 88 Civic is the same motor more or less as a 03 civic.

How about the carbon fiber spoiler on the Cayman 3.8L GTR in Excellence Mag in September? Thats what I want...

I never used them that oftin in the first place but when you flick them on you still see farther down the road because they are angled up so high. Honestly nothing really has changed except that the lows are HID now and look better. I get the same visability on the road, just the light is a bit brighter where it was, whiter too. That and it looks a lot nicer. Generally when you toss an HID bulb into a halogen housing they suck, but I'm seriously impressed with how well it worked on this car.. My previous 3 attempts or so have been pretty horible.

djantlive: I just drilled the hole in the center of the cover, the wires have lots of lenght so it was pretty easy to put them through. I zip tied the ballast to some of the wires behind the headlight. One side was a hard bar probablly for A/C the other side part of the wiring harness. I just lightly zip tied the ballast to something on each side. It's pretty easy trust me. Then put the headlight in and plug everything in, piece of cake. blackkatt: The bulbs that do that are the Blue Halogen bulbs with higher wattage than stock which get a lot hotter than the stock bulbs do. Even my stock bulbs did a bit of yellowing of my stock headlights and the lense, not too bad tho. The HID bulbs run cooler than a traditional halogen bulb does so it wont happen.

Mine were the same. I'm not sure that it being lower is really a problem however as they HID is brighter and the extra light being pointed a little lower shouldn't be a problem. If anything it will save you from problems you might have otherwise had. Do they look like the stock lights on the road? If you feel that they are not pointed up high enough it's easy to bring the lights up a little bit to make up the difference.

One of the things I have always done with many cars is pull the mounts and fill the empty spots in them with urethane. This was filled with Devon Flexane 94 on my dad's race car. It doens't make them solid or so they will vibrate at all. The stock rubber is still in there, this is just poured urethane around it to fill in the gaps. We filled all 5 mounts on his engine and he has pretty lumpy cams and its still smooth, but it stops the engine from jerking around in the bay a lot. Even on the dyno the motor doesn't move much. These are on a VQ35DE powered 4th Gen Maxima. Puts 269whp N/A and 390ish on Nitrous to the wheels. You tape up the back side and pour the Flexane in and it sets over night then re-install the mount. It will pretty well solve the motor moving around problem or mounts rubber wearing out. Pretty slck stuff. You'll have to search around to find it, but these guys carry it. http://www.venselenterprises.com/onlinecat...plies/p305.html

The higher the Kelvin rating the dimmer the light. It also makes the light a darker color. 4300k are white 5000k are light blue white, 6500k are more blue, 8000k are dark blue, 10000k are purple, 13000k are almost dark green. 6500k are too blue for my taste, they look too much like the $40 fake blue xenon bulbs from ebay to me, lot of peope love the color, it's just a personal thing. I wanted the most stock OEM looking color I could get. My buddy has the 10000k in his A3 and they look kinda cool in purple but they stand out a lot and look like they are not supposed to be there.

No it's exactly the opposite. I have the HID in the low beam for normal driving and the high beem which you hardly ever use is still a regular halogen bulb. Thats why you see the HID light and my fog light in one of the pictures at the same time. When you turn on the high beems the fogs go off. Typically most cars with HID have Halogen high beems, though this is changing, as HID have a warm up period so they are less effective with being able to turn on and be really bright instantly (for flashing or passing when you flip them on for a few seconds). They have almost overcome this with bi-xenon and stuff that is already warm so it lights up immediately. I was not interested in paying for another kit simply to have HID high beems that you hardly use. When you see the picturs of the halogen light vs. HID, thats only for comparison. That was before the HID was installed and after how it looks. None of those pictures have the high beems on or anything to do with the high beems. They are the lower bulb in the housing. As you can see in the one picture the upper bulb the low beem is the one that was removed.

The only thing you do get from the MSD if you get a DIS-6 is the two step revlimiter. You can engage it with the clutch switch or a button on your steering wheel. Lets you do full throttle launches but holds the rpm to 5500 (or whatever you set it at) with a secondary lower REV limiter that you manually engage. I use it on my Turbo Talon and it lets me launch with 10psi of boost from a large turbo right outta the hole. The car is AWD and goes sideways through first. Push the gas to the floor hold the rev limiter button that holds the engine at 5500rpm. The full throttle spools up the turbo then when the light goes green let out the button and clutch and holy **** away she goes. Much better than droping the clutch, with part throttle holding it at 5000rpm or so ish. Could be fun on a Boxster with RWD.

HI, not to make a duplicate post but I know this crosses a few 996 guys minds once in a while. See this thread in the Boxster DIY area. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=10247 If you have questions reply to me in the boxster forum I will check there. Hope that helps!

OK, so looked at real litronic lights and couldn't swallow the $1300. I have had HID retrofits in a lot of my cars before but have had mixed results with them. I generally buy a projector housing for the car then put hid in that and even then they are not that great. I bought this kit from CQ Light: H7, 5000k http://www.cqlight.ca/index.php?cPath=32_45 They are plug and play lights ment for a H7 halogen headlight. The install was really easy. As a matter of fact the easiest I have done in any car. The headlights pop out with the tool in your bag in the spare tire in about 30 seconds then plug in the HID light, zip tie the ballast in the headlight hole to something so it doesn't flop around then re-install the headlamps. You will need to drill a hole in the plastic cover on the back of the headlamps for the hid wiring to go through. Two wires for the bulb it's self and power and ground that plugs into the stock wiring harness. No cutting or soldering involved. The kit comes with power leads with spade connectors on it already that just slip into the stock bulb socket no probs. The stock halogen lights have the european code light cut off like this. ____/ if you have ever driven close to a wall you will notice it. I took before and after pics. The cut off was exactly the same with no glare or light wandering away. The cut off on the stock lights is really good and cuts the hid off just like the stock bulb so you only get light were the factory light intends it to be unlike most cars. Generally hid retrofits in stock housings have light all over the place which was the case for me a few times. This is NOT the case with Porsche lights, lucky us. Here are some pics. Notes for each pics are under. Halogen lights as stock from Porsche. HID retro fit installed. You can see the cut off is exactly the same on the wall. The car is in a slightly different spot here and it's much darker ouside in this pic making the lights look a lot brigher. More or less the light is exactly the same and in the exact same position. Halogen light stock. HID Retrofit with fog on to see difference. Stock H7 vs. HID H7. You can see the arc point is in the exact same spot. Might be hard as I'm holding the bulbs but they were identical. Headlights outta the car. 30 seconds a side really. Stock bulb out. Got kinda hot there wow. HID are cooler running so thats good. The top is the low beem. The HID retrofit goes in like stock. Just run the wires out the plastic cover, drill a hole. On the front of my house. Same as stock cut off. HID on the road through the windshield at eye level. HID on the road over the windshield. Color of HID 5000k retrofits. Color of stock halogens. Just incase you wondered about HID retrofits, you can now see they are just as good as stock. You get the light of HID without 1300 bux. Remember real litronic are better, self leveling etc. so they are worth the money. For $200 you get more light output than stock, the nice HID color, and no downside typical with HID retrofits. I think that Porsche did a really good job on the stock headlights as they have good cut off from the factory. With a lot more light output from HID lights, they still control the light very well and get it right on the road with no glare. Bottom line, really good for the cost, and really look nice too.

The PCV and oil seperator do a good job stoping oil entering the cylinders but it's not perfect. Over time oil will enter the combustion chamber through the throttle body. Oil will penetrate even the smallest area and when it is traveling through there some will almost always leak out through any hole it can find. Thats why it's around the connections of your intake manifold. If the manifold was one piece and aluminum it would show or even happen. Because there is 3-4 connections in the manifold in total, any oil traveling through there will eventually leak outside and stain the manifold. It's no big deal, some cleaner and a rag will clean it up, however you rarely look at your engine anyway so who cares really.

Sounds like really you got quite a long time out of it. When you beat on a race motor generally they don't last 3 years of racing. A full year from a race motor is pretty good. Generally we rebuild a normal race motor every year so you start fresh in the spring. You kept racing on it and eventually it poped, which is pretty good. It was totally stock, but should probablly have had a stock re-build after at least two years to freshen up everything. No big deal tho. Pick up a new crate motor, this time however, pull it after 2 years and give it a once over. A few thousand bux and you'll be back on again.

Do a search on this. They all smoke when they first start, totally normal. Getting smoke at 6-7k is signs of an oil seperator. I'm not sure on compression numbers but they should all be close to one another. With in say 5%. If you get 200psi in one cylinder they shoudl all be 195-205 kinda deal. If you have one at 60psi or something like that then you have a burnt up or scuffed piston ring.

The M3 makes that power partly because they have Individual throttle bodies (ITB's) so each cylinder across the straight 6 gets one runner and one throttle plate for each cylinder. This is a very efficient design, but costly. You can more closely tune each cylinder to make sure your getting as much air, velocity and power from each cylinder you can. If you look at the center you can see connectors for each throttle body. I have seen chips make gains on cars where you thought gains would not be possible, the Acura Type-R for example. 195hp from 1.8L and the chip made 8whp on the dyno with 4ft/lbs of torque at peak. Pretty good really from an engine strung out that much. I would like to see a before and after dyno of a car that had a chip installed. Even with different readings from the dyno and temperatures outside etc. if you could still see a noticable repeatable difference you can tell that it did indeed at least do "something".

This is easily fixed with a odometer correction tool http://www.diga-soft.de/odometer-software.php Called a Diga-consult. It's super expensive but worth it if you have a lease. Also http://www.newagespeedometer.com/nas/order...3&pics=true You send your ecu in and it's $500 to have it changed to whatever you want. If you google Odometer reprogramming and adjusting tool a lot of sites come up. Sift through them, also change the search around a bit and you will find something. This has been going on and done for quite some time. All of which was covered in tool pants link lol. oh well.

Old topic back to life, wondering if maybe you tried this chip or if anybody else has one they can chime in?

Some people seem convinced that putting a bar between the strut towers helps with handling some how. I have had front and back on many of my cars and it never resulted in any changes that I could feel or see in track times. They were basically a waste of money and a nuisance when working on the car. I have not tried them on a Boxster however, but some people on the 986Forum.com seem to think they are the cats meow and you simply can't live without them for whatever reason. If you want to tighten up your suspension that way, get sway bars. They come standard equipment on the car, so an upgrade will help. Strut bars are not on the car to start so you can see how important they are to Porsche. Any car they come on are likely for cosmetic (sporty) reasons. The boxster has a 4 pt roll bar at the back as it is. Those 4 points should do some to tighten up the back of the car. Any car I have put a cage in (4pt or otherwise) has added a lot of ragidity to the car. I know these are factory and not welded in like a real cage is but it must do something to the car for strength to the chassis. Maybe somebody with somem real info can chime in and enlighten us.

Isn't 0-40 Mobil 1 the recommended oil for the 986 motor? Thats what our local dealer uses on all the Porsche cars. I use that myself with a Porsche oil filter. My buddy works for Porsche so I get my parts cheap so I buy them from the dealer just because.

I would have to check the oil specs on the Boxster tranny, however in my Talon, GTi and a lot of Honda's I have worked on when they grind I order GM Syncromesh Tranny fluid. It was developed by Pensoil specifically for crappy GM trannies that always broke. They spent a lot of money developing it and it really does a huge part in curing problems with grinding gears in a tranny. I know that sounds like snake oil, however read up and see what you think. Just google GM Syncromesh and hear what everybody else who uses it has to say. I track my talon a lot and with 425whp it's **** hard on trannys with AWD. I use the syncromesh exclusivly on my cars and it has been amazing. Honda kids who beat up their cars and come in with grinding trannies get this from me. I tell them to drive easy for two weeks with the syncromesh to let the syncros wear evenly with no beatings and in 90% of the cases it solves the grinding for quite a period of time. Of course it will not solve the problem, but it does stop the grinding and extend the life of the tranny quite a bit. http://www.superhonda.com/forum/archive/in...p/t-188051.html Yes thats superhonda, but thats only one result of meny from Google where guys claim it work. It was my saviour in my GTI and Talon for sure. My Porsche will get it shortly.