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dporto

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Everything posted by dporto

  1. dporto
    Hmmm...no I don't have any idea, sorry
  2. dporto
    Hmmm, I got half of mine from "specialized german" on Ebay (I don't remember off hand whether it was the wheel or the airbag - I got them from two different vendors). I think they're a dismantler, so they always have lots of parts - good luck.
  3. dporto
    There are a bunch of them on Ebay http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.XPorsche+996+3+spoke+steering+wheel.TRS0&_nkw=Porsche+996+3+spoke+steering+wheel&_sacat=0 The airbags that are available now are a little pricey - I was able to get a wheel and airbag for around $500 a year ago. If they're not the right color you can get a Color Dye kit for about $75 ( www.leatherworld.com ) to match your interior. The regular kit will do at least 10 steering wheels/airbags. Good luck
  4. dporto
    Hmmm...I don't know very much about the '06 Caman, so I can't comment on it's re-sale value. What I can say regarding both cars is this: Your best bet (unless you're buying a collectible car - neither of which these are - yet) is to get the best example possible for the best price possible. Along with this you must take the Latin "caveat emptor" into due consideration. In other words, you're buying the car to drive it and enjoy it - not as an investment (neither car afaik is an investment grade vehicle, though if you keep it long enough, who knows?). The better you take care of it, the more of your purchase price you'll get back should you ever decide to sell it...
  5. dporto
    You can get "same as stock" refurbished top-mounts from Elephant Racing here: http://www.elephantracing.com/suspension/rubberbushings/996-997-rubber-suspension-bushings.htm#prod_3 for $230 for the pair. I missed this when I did mine (despite a LOT of research) or a may have used them instead of the camber plates (which I must say I'm very happy with, but the others are less expensive). In either case, afaik everything '99 up to '05 will fit the same (in other words what fits a 2000 will work on a '99 as well).
  6. dporto
    "Can anyone suggest some makes and versions, and where to buy them? Also I am not looking to spend a fortune - hopefully around £300-500 at max." Hmmm, good luck with that :eek: I don't think there is a "good/reputable" (Bilstein, H&R, KW etc...) set of coil-overs for less than $1850.00 US unless you happen upon a really good sale. There are a few Asian companies that make c/o's that fit, but reviews are mixed... Not sure you want to gamble on your suspension, both from a safety point of view and if you've got to re-do it, you haven't saved anything - in fact you've wasted quite a bit of $... Good Luck
  7. dporto
    Hey Bill, so I never got back with the precise measurements (went out of town for a few days and forgot about it)... Do you still need them, or were the approximate #'s good enough? FWIW, I didn't have any #'s when I made mine (though I did need to cut and re-weld the "legs" twice before I got it right :cursing: )
  8. dporto
    Ok Bill, I'll be up at my shop later on this afternoon/tonight. I'll try to remember to measure and post. Off hand I can say the depth is about 4.5" the width overall is about 7" and the two short bottom legs are 1.5 " ea. leaving roughly 4" between them. I used .5" x 1.5" steel for the top "spanner" The "legs & feet" are 1 "x .75". The hole for the bolt is .75"
  9. dporto
    ^This^ $300/ea.= $600 for stock topmounts (that have the compliant rubber inserts)... Camber plates $500 - $550/pr. (I went with Tarrett @ $500). No "harshness" (honestly I was a little worried) to speak of, just a very "connected" feeling. Overall, the ride is much smoother than with the old shocks/struts and broken topmounts. Good luck
  10. dporto
    Thanks Loren...Unfortunately, " the fastening nut 26 and the inner race 27 of the main light switch 31 can be removed." isn't much help... I did get that far but could never get the "inner cup" of the surround to come out of the larger surround piece. I do have an idea (namely drilling a hole or two in the back of the larger surround piece so I can push the cup out from behind) should I ever revisit replacing the light switch, but at this point I've determined that the switch is not the problem in my case.
  11. dporto
    "Clunking" sounds from up front (usually overs bumps - which as JFP pointed out - you can't replicate on a lift) are often due to rubber bushings being worn or even broken/torn. I just replaced my struts and springs (on a C4) and found that both top-mounts were shot. The passenger side had totally failed so the bushing was actually floating in the plate. The drivers side was badly torn on two sides but had totally separated yet. The passenger side was the one with the "clunk". The problem is, you can't tell for sure until you take everything apart. The bottom line is, if it's clunking and nothing is loose (easy enough to check) you can rest assured that something is worn out or broken. Unfortunately on the C4 the top-mounts are expensive! Whether you go for the stock mounts, or aftermarket adjustable camber plates, it's going to run you a minimum of $500 - $600 for the parts...
  12. dporto
    Hmmm, I was never able to get that "cup/surround" piece off of my light switch - therefore never got the switch out. It turns out it was never the switch at fault though... Shortly after putting my car up for the winter (in my garage/workshop). I decided to check out the lights again...They both worked fine (the passenger side is the one that had been acting up). Throughout the course of the winter while working on the car I would occasionally check the lights, and they worked every time (I had bought a new igniter that I was planning on installing - but didn't due to the fact that everything was working). Upon finishing the installation of shocks and struts last week, I took the car out of the garage, drove it some, and then parked it in my driveway. The lights worked fine when the weather was dry - as soon as it rained, the passenger side acted up again. So, now I know that there is someplace that's getting wet and breaking the connection for the Litronic light (all the other lights work)... Time to dig around in there a little...
  13. dporto
    ^That's^ some crazy math! :thumbup:
  14. dporto
    If anyone is interested in the dimensions, let me know and I'll post them. :thumbup:
  15. dporto
    I wound up making my own hub puller. After a couple (2) false starts (legs too long - had to shorten them and re-weld twice) I was able to get to work, and t performed perfectly. Pulling the hubs and bearing was a piece of cake!
  16. dporto
    Does anyone have one of these tools (SIR Hub/bearing extractor) handy for measurements? As I'm not a pro and won't be using this thing over and over again (I actually just need it for two hubs) , I think I can make something up if I have the dimensions. I really just need to make the U shaped yoke/"bridge", as I have a full bearing puller kit with corresponding adapters
  17. dporto
    The nut is off, the bolt is frozen/stuck in the wheel carrier - it won't even turn, which is worse than the other one which I was able to (finally) remove. I did have to cut the top nut off the strut in order to remove the top-mount. I suspect I'll have to do the same with this one, but I'm not even thinking about that yet. :)
  18. dporto
    Just a 5" vise on the bench - should be able to old it, but the carrier does have a unusual shape. It may be better off if it's "captured"/held by the rest of the suspension components. Thanks again for your help/suggestions!
  19. dporto
    Now that I've gotten one of the front struts out and am working on the other, next question... Upon pulling the wheel carrier off the end of the axle, I noticed a little play in the wheel bearings. There isn't a lot of play, but it is noticeable (maybe 1/16" ?). This wasn't noticeable with the wheels on, but once they were off and the hub was exposed it feels a little loose/wobbly. I figure that now's the time to replace them as I don't want take this all apart again. I've already ordered the bearings and they should arrive this week. My plan is to use a screw type bearing extractor as I don't have a press readily available. My question is this: Using the screw type bearing extractor, would it be easier if the wheel carrier was back in it's installed position in the car (mounted on the strut) or loose/on the bench? It seems to me that I should mount everything back up and then extract/install the new bearings - I just want to check with those who've done it.
  20. dporto
    I got the first one (passenger side) out of the wheel carrier today...Wow - 3 days of soaking with PB's and beating on it with a hammer and a drift...I had to cut the top nut off in order to get the strut out of the top mount (which btw was shot).
  21. dporto
    Hi Loren, Thanks for the reply. Yes! I actually used the DIY for my procedure (even though it's not on a C4...quite a bit of trial and error - with an emphasis on the error- for me :eek: ) . I'm basically up to the point where I'd start installing the new struts - except I'm at a bit of a sticking point, as I can get the old ones off yet (They're out of the wheel wells, but still hanging on by a couple bolts).Also, I can seem to source a set of new Strut to Wheel carrier bolts (M12 1.5 x 85) should I need to cut them in order to remove... Any ideas? Thanks in advance :cheers:
  22. dporto
    Anyone?... :huh: Anyone?...
  23. dporto
    As the title suggests, I'm changing out the struts and shocks on my '99 C4. I'm using Bilstein B8 sports with H&R lowering springs. The rears went very smoothly at about an hour and a half to two hours for the first one and around an hour for the second. The fronts are a little more complicated as I had to drop the coffin and control arms, the brake calipers etc., in addition to removing the axle nuts. While this was certainly more time consuming, it's all fairly straight forward. The struts are out. Now the problems: 1) I can't remove either of the top nuts so as to remove the top mounts. The Torx sockets at the top of the rods stripped out almost immediately...I'm thinking the only way is to drill the shaft/rod out of the nut. I'm certainly open to suggestions. 2) I can't get the through bolt out of the wheel carrier (the one that holds the strut in the wheel carrier) - these seem like they should come right out with a drift, but no luck. It seems like there may be very fine grit that's been packed in there over the years. My gut says just keep working on them and they'll loosen up eventually...I'm just wondering whether I'm missing something?...
  24. dporto
    "I am developing a permanent fix for this if anyone still needs it." very cool !
  25. dporto
    Connect your pressurized water source (hose?) to the "hot"/output side of the engine and turn on the water. It would be wise to put some sort of clean catch basin with fairly fine screening under the water-pump/ thermostat area to capture any pieces of water-pump impeller that should be expelled from the engine. I think the idea is to "re-create the impeller" so as to determine that you've gotten it all. Good Luck
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