Jump to content

The RennTech.org community is Member supported!  Please consider an ANNUAL donation to help keep this site operating.
Click here to Donate

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)


Contributing Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by neoplanet

  1. I had intermittent problems with headlights all the time until I replaced those harnesses. Then all problems ceased. I didn’t have much trouble getting them out of there but I did crack one holder a bit. Still seems ok. Just slide them to the side if I remember correctly. No special tools needed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Thanks everyone for your responses. This has been a big help. Although I still have to decide whether to replace or get a new aftermarket with Car Play. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Another question: it sounds like you replaced it and all was fine. Is that the case? I was concerned it might be a wiring problem and replacing it wouldn’t do the trick! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Thanks. I kinda thought so. Do you have a source suggestion for a rebuilt one? That would be a more known good unit. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. For some reason the head unit with the navigation completely restarts itself. Sometimes when it comes back on the display looks normal but there is a low hiss and regular pop sound about every three seconds coming through the speakers. It seems I can jiggle it (screws are now out) and make it restart again and come back on and functioning as normal. Has anybody experienced this? It happens whether the fiber optic cables are plugged in or not, although of course I can’t hear the audio effect. It’s simply darkens and brings back the display and backlight. On its own.
  6. I've checked the SAIs. The filters and impellers are fine. Yeah, it is quite easy to check. Just that center screw. And OH! I see. It's not an accidental drive cycle, like a natural thing you would do. It is an intentional drive cycle to cause the thing to do its thing! Makes sense now. Thanks a lot for this info! I also have checked the relays, swapped them all out with no change, but that was before the battery was checked and found to fail the test. New battery kept the engine light off for like a week until I tried several cold starts. Then it came on and
  7. Wow, thanks for the info! Almost like I am supposed to have a regular job and drive it to work!! Well, I don't think I have been fitting that pattern. So I will give it a shot. I have another question for you guys. Well, two. Am I right to assume I can drive it, warm it up on the highway, stop somewhere and shut it down, start it up while still warm, drive home and shut it down, let it cool off? That also being a drive cycle? I did try a couple cold starts before it warmed up and it blew the 5A fuse that runs the relays for the SAI and coolant pump. This fuse was blowing all
  8. Haven't tried again yet. I'll give it a few days and see. I mean at the department of motor vehicles they will usually give you more time for an issue like this... one that is only a matter of time before it is fixed. You'd have to request the extension from them if it isn't resolved by the time yours is due.
  9. The dealer here in Newport Beach says they can reset that particular "readiness" item and it would cost 1hr ($185). Otherwise drive it and eventually it will get there. The local mechanic/smog tester guy said it depends on the number of cold starts, which I take to mean it isn't mileage, but starts that will get it there. You can always just pay the registration fee and avoid late charges but get a smog extension... but just get it tested right before you go in. It might have gotten there by then. But if you want to be sure, take it to the dealer and pay for 1 hr. I would think EVERY deal
  10. I have exactly the same problem going on right now. Just last night the mechanic told me everything passes except that the secondary air injection is not ready. He says just have to go through some more cycles of cold starts. I know that it only operates on the cold start. So I am hoping it will regenerate. I cleared my codes with the tester that I have. Recently replaced the battery which solved some other problems and now it no longer blows The five amp fuse which was shutting off the secondary air injection and causing the engine light to come on with the related codes. Hopefully it will ju
  11. I've searched far and wide and haven't found an answer for this. I know how they are supposed to work. The button sometimes controls the situation and sometimes doesn't. I've taken apart the ceiling console. The switch looks and seems to work fine. The plastic is all in it's proper place where the button hits the circuit board. Both sides of the footwells and the door armrest backlighting go on and off at exactly the same time. Flickering. Seems to be affected by ride (e.g. speed bumps, driveways, aggressive driving). I attached a video. Anybody ever had this experience
  12. Thanks. I think I did see some DIY on youtube about rebuilding this exact diff. I did try the fluid change and no diff! Still had the noise. There were actually beautiful swirls of brass colored fine grains in the old oil. So THAT can't be good. I do wonder where exactly that metal is coming from. Maybe the bearing is shot and the gears are misaligned & wearing? Cuz I don't think bearings are made of that color/alloy. I put in the redline oil. Still making the same sound. Sightly worse a couple thousand miles later. Any idea what exactly would produce that color metal shavings?
  13. Hi. The title is probably self explanatory. If I get a used diff, is it just plain risky, or can it be understood whether the thing is one of the good ones or not before I replace my noisy one with it? Much thanks for any insight.
  14. Thanks. Yes, I wouldn't worry about it except that I live in California and have to get it to pass smog to get it registered. They will require it be fixed. I did test the impedance of the pump the code indicates is faulty and it shows continuity, so no blown out pump according to the troubleshooting steps in the factory service manual. And the pump looks totally fine physically. Nothing has fallen apart. I'll try the relay and see what happens. Just wondering if one being out could affect the other one by just shutting down the whole system in the computer. I know this happens with th
  15. Hi all. I know this is an old thread but all the problems I have seem to be already discussed in pretty good detail. This one I am mystified. I have checked: Pumps & their filters, visibly physically OK; fuse F3, OK; hoses at valves, OK; connectors to pumps seem fully engaged... but with the covers off of the pumps, the blades visible I can see that NEITHER of them spins on cold start. I say "cold" start, it was the first start of the day even thought it was midday 80 degrees. I figured they should run. It seems there are two relays for these pumps in the water box but it seems so un
  16. The code reader gave 0898 which is air conditioning compressor not engaged... something like that. Funny story... I replaced a valve cover gasket a couple of months ago. Some of you may know that wire that goes over the left valve cover. I've learned it goes to the A/C compressor. I had read another post where someone decided to cut and splice that wire rather than disconnect it from wherever down in there they could see it went at the time. I for some reason thought that sounded like a good idea! So, I've discovered the splice job I did was faulty. I soldered and shrink wrapped it an
  17. The FSM of course just tells you how to troubleshoot using the Porsche tester. No "under the hood" commands for the bus. I gave up on trying to find commands for my Torque tool. I'll have a new code reader, Porsche iCarsoft i960, in a few days. Says it includes the Air Conditioning control. Hope it works!
  18. No, I don't know anyone with the vagcom. Guess I'm not social enough! Good try though, thx. Seems I should be able to read anything if I have the right code & setup info for the specific thing I'm looking for on the specific vehicle. Looking into it. I'm sure the info is out there. OH! I just remembered, I ordered the FSM the other day. Better go download it and see what's in there.
  19. I have the "Torque" app. It doesn't list any A/C related codes in the custom area. The fault codes displaying are only as before (secondary air injection) which is another story. The A/C PID could be entered but it is asking for hexadecimal "AA BB" type code input to be able to add custom and check them. Any idea where I can look this up or perhaps you have the hex code? From my looking around it appears there are codes for A/C Pressure Switch and other related A/C items but I would need to enter the hex codes. Any clues you can provide may shed some light.
  20. I'll check the codes again. I have android ODB2. No durametric. I did check before and only had an issue to do with secondary air injection. But I think the A/C was working then. I'll check and reply.
  21. Thanks @Brett968. First let me say you just blew my mind with your generosity and your knowledge of this thing! So, thanks for delivering some truth and clarity. Ok, no clutch! Sounds like a cool way to do A/C. Let's see now what I can answer... They did the visual inspection and didn't find anything obviously wrong. I did measure the pressure on the low side at 125 psi with everything turned on at the console. I know it's supposed to be much lower but they said that is not unusual if the compressor is not running. I don't remember their numbers but they didn't seem incons
  22. @JFP in PA would you happen to have a diagram to go with that list? I have a 2006 CTT that has no cold A/C. Everything checked out at the A/C shop but they said there is no voltage going to the compressor. This tells me there is a fuse or relay (perhaps) that has gone out. I have an aftermarket part number for an 'A/C Control Relay' for this car but no porsche number and no location. I'd like to try swapping out another relay to test. If you have a diagram that would sure help. I haven't seen a diagram with the same designations that are shown in the list you provided above.
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.