Server Lease Renewal/Software Licenses
Our yearly server lease, software licenses, as well as hardware operating costs, ARE due Dec 6th, 2021. Our current donations have fallen far short of the funds we need to renew. Please remember the RennTech.org community is Member supported so please consider a donation to help... THANK YOU!
Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest
Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'p0300'.
I am having an intermittent misfire issue with my 996. It started a few months ago, when the battery ran down after not driving it for a few weeks, and I had to jump the car to get it going. After a few miles, I got a CEL and the car started to misfire. Upon arriving at my location, which was just a short distance away, I turned off the engine and went about my business. Upon returning to the car, it ran fine. No CEL and did 65mph all the way home, which was about 20 miles away. All was good, until a couple of weeks ago, when on a slow drive, I got a misfire and the CEL came back on. I made it to a gas station to fill up, expecting it to clear again. This time it did not, and I limped it on home. After a couple of days, I went out to diagnose and checked codes. They were: P0300- PFC 507 – Misfire detected P0301 – PFC 508 – Misfire Cylinder 1 P0305 – PFC 513 – Misfire Cylinder 5 P0303 – PFC 512 – Misfire Cylinder 3 P0304 – PFC 511 – Misfire Cylinder 4 These are on both banks. After a couple of days, I went out, cleared the codes, and the car ran just fine. No CEL and smooth running. I drove it a couple of times, without incident. However, today, I went out to drive the car. Went a short distance…all was fine. When I got back into the car, I once again had misfires and the CEL came on. Checked codes and all I have is: P0300- PFC 507 – Misfire detected P0301 – PFC 508 – Misfire Cylinder 1 The only thing I can think of is that it must either be related to a low voltage battery messing with the computer or somehow related to moisture, since both incidences occurred around having just completed a rain storm. The car was not driven in the rain. This would possibly point to bad coils. I have checked the MAF, but disconnecting the plug, when it was misfiring. No change in idle. Seems strange to have multiple Coils fail at once? But possible. Same with spark plugs. One item of note. This is a replacement engine, replaced by Porsche, due to an engine failure while the PO owned it. The current engine has about 30K miles on it. I am not sure if all the maintenance parts were replaced, such as AOS, coils, plugs, and so on. Any thoughts on what to check to help narrow down the issue, other than just replacing everything or taking it to the repair shop?
Hi all The engine light comes on my 996 every so often, then goes off a few weeks later. I wasn't to concerned as the car drives well. So I got round to plugging it into the Durametric to look at the fault codes.... I've got loads of codes, P1340, P1531, P0300, P0306, P0304, P0305, P1585, P1319, P1318, P 1316, P1317, P0301, P0303! The car drives very nicely, loads of power and seems perfect when accelerating and driving. Feels perfect on the open road. The issue I have is a "tapping" noise on the engine on idle and a slightly eratic idle - its not much, but its not perfect. It sounds a bit like my 1955 VW Beetle. I was running 5W oil, but also changed it to 10w a month ago, but the tapping noise is exactly the same. Car has done 96,000m. So I'm keen to look at the codes and fix as many things as possible! So today I removed the spark plug/Coil pack covers on both sides to remove a spark plug from each side, the idea was that I could inspect them and the coil packs to see if there old or visually worn out. The plugs were NGK FGR6KQE 4 tipped plugs, with BERU coil packs all round. The plugs both looked great, normal grey/brown looking colours. The coil packs were dated Jan 2013 and visually looked clean and tidy. **I've owned the car about 18 months**. I was hoping the plugs may look old and I could just replace those to see if it improves, a fair £40 and Id get to spend some time hopefully improving the 996. I noticed that one of the middle "tubes" where the spark plug goes into was a bit wet with oil - the other two were dry. I see that its possible to buy new tubes for about £8 with the o-ring seals. The 3 tubes on the other side all looked dry, so just one that's seeping it seems. I'll work my way through the list of codes, but if anyone has any advice on these codes id love to hear from you! I see one of them was for a fuel vent, so I'm hoping a couple of codes could be cheap fixes. Many thanks, Paul Dorset.
My 2000 Boxster S w/105k (body) 40k (engine) is acting up. Last fall, I got caught in downpour and inches of standing water, getting splashed hard by other cars. The CEL started flashing and the car was nearly impossible to drive past 3rd gear (no power and bucking) until I could get off freeway to let it dry out. It had several misfire codes set. Ever since then, it's been a little less smooth than I had been accustomed to, and now it is misfiring and bucking below about 2600 RPM all gears, all temps, but ONLY with high throttle opening (e-gas). Tipping the throttle in seems to be fine. High RPM seems ok, if maybe a little weak. If you keep the throttle open under the misifiring conditions, it will cause a flashing CEL, although it will not stay on. Stored codes are P0300, P0301. Previously, the secondary air injector and catalyst codes have set the CEL, but it went away on their own (this was after driving on a very dusty road last fall). Car is stock, except desnorkel. Half of exhaust was disconnected recently for wheel bearing replacement, but this problem predates that job. Have changed plugs, cleaned MAF, cleaned throttle body. Most of the coils are cracked, but not bad enough to see inside -- I epoxied them. Problem seemed to clear up after changing plugs, but then came back on next drive. I suspect bad coil(s), also MAF or vacuum leaks. My understanding is that the coils should have about 40k miles on them (same as engine), but they do look pretty rough. I am ordering coils, but want to make this problem go away permanently without playing the blind remove and replace game -- what else should I look at? I will disconnect the MAF and drive around to see if that helps and do a propane vacuum leak check as well when the engine lid is off. Thanks so much guys, Cary (photo is from Utah, 3k into my 10k mile summer roadtrip last year, car was awesome!)