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I wanted to share the problem I've had for the last several months and the resolution I finally found today. Like a lot of 986 owners, I've been having an intermittent problem where my top will not go down. The problem seemed to revolve around the temperature. I live in St Louis where the temperatures are frequently over 100 F in July and August. What I was able to do is to point the AC vents up so that they were directed to the latch assembly. After 10 to 15 min. of driving, I could pull over and the top would go down normally. I finally had time today to pull the switches and see what was going on. I used a multi-meter to test the continuity of the switches. I knew the swich that controls the drop of the windows (the one on the left side of the assembly with the large plunger that extends out when the latch is opem) was fine. The windows always drop immediately when the top is unlatched. I suspected that the switch on the right (the one that activates the top relay) was bad or sticking. Visually, the switch looked to be woking fine the pin operated smoothly. I tested the terminals on the switch itself and it showed that the switch was working fine. I then tested it on the lead that run across the back of the assembly to the plug. There was continuity there also. I did notice some corrosion around the solder joints were the leads attach to the plug. While cleaning the corrosion, I noticed that one of the leads had broken free of the solder. What was happening is that when the lead would get hot, it would curl slightly lifting off the terminal. When it would cool down, it would uncurl and come in contact with the terminal allowing the connection to be made and the top to operate. I cleaned the corrosion and resoldered the lead (the white arrow in the picture points to the contact I had to resolder. I checked for continuity at the plug and I had connection. I reinstalled the switch and the latch catch and everything is working normally again. I hope this helps someonelse.

post-3514-1156036207.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 5 months later...

To get to the switch you will need to remove the latch plate from the center of the windshield. To do this remove the sensor "eyes" by gently prying them off with your finger nail or a small flat screw driver. There will be a torx bolt inside each. Remove them then carfully lower the latch plate so that you can get to the wires for the switch and for the light. Remove the wires and then the latch plate is free. There are 2 retaining clips that hold the switch to the back of the latch plate. Use a pair of needle nose pliers and gently remove them. If your careful they can be reused. You will just need to flatten out the cross sections in the center of the clips. If you do break them I beleive the part number is

999 507 534 02, atleast it is for my 99, and they are not expensive.

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Thank you very much. The "eyes" didn't look like they had anything to do with it :)

Now it looks like the roof isn't opening because of a different problem unfortunately. Using a multimeter its evident the switch works up to the point where the wires plug into it, but the signal doesn't seem to make it all the way to the relay central. At least the roof is stuck in the closed position.

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  • 2 months later...

Hi, everyone. My 2000 Boxster runs fine. Its got 52k on it. My top is still working but I have another problem. The light on the dash goes out when the top is lowered but when its raised the light stays on. There is a bonus to this problem. I here a static popping noise when the top is up that seems to be coming from the speakers or under the dash or even from the rear. I hear the intermitent noise even when the radio is lowered or off? I can't seem to pinpoint the sound. Seems as if something is not grounded and is touching the body or building up a static charge. My old battery went dead and I may have over charged it before I realized it was absolutely shot. Any ideas or comments would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

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Dan, that's a pretty tiny picture there... I'm having top issues, but haven't been able to determine if it's similar to yours yet... haven't been able to try to put the top down due to vacation, and generally crappy weather around here.

I'd like to remove my top latch switch and check it... I THINK I can see what your pic is referring to. If you have something a little larger... it might help ;)

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  • 2 weeks later...

My wife has a trouble with the drivers window.

It does not drop down when you want to open or close the roof.

You can also operate the window up or down while the roof is in motion,

so I guess that the window doesn't know that the roof is in motion and therefore I would blame the windshield switch for that.

Would you know the part number for the switch or is it repairable?

I took it apart today, but it looked ok and I don't have a voltmeter :( to test it.

Any ideas or suggestions?

Thanks

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Velryba, you didn't mention what year your car is. The part number for a 97 to 99 Boxster is 986 613 795 02 not sure of the part number for 2000 or newer.

You also mentioned that it's the drivers window that is not dropping. Does the passenger side window drop when the top is released? Does the drivers window drop when you lift the door handle?

Dan

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Velryba, you didn't mention what year your car is. The part number for a 97 to 99 Boxster is 986 613 795 02 not sure of the part number for 2000 or newer.

You also mentioned that it's the drivers window that is not dropping. Does the passenger side window drop when the top is released? Does the drivers window drop when you lift the door handle?

Dan

Hi Dan

the car is 1998 2.5 Boxster

the passenger window drops all the way down each time I want to open (releas the "hook") or close the top.

Yes bouth door drops when you lift the handle.

Thanks Robert

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Just spoken to Porsche UK and they said that if one window is working, then it can't be that switch as it's operating both windows.

So if this switch is broken, neither window would work.

Now, is that correct?

BTW the UK price for that switch is £21.00.

Thanks

Robert

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That is correct. It's a single switch in the latch on the wind screen and it controls both windows for the top release.

If the drivers window drops when you lift the door handle but not when you release the top and the passengers window drops correctly when the top is released, my guess would be that there is a loss in the wire between the windshild microswitch and the drivers door. Either a short or loose connector. It may also be a bad relay. The easiest way to test the relay is to swap it with a relay from a friends car and see it that takes care of the issue. If that doesn't take care of it I would try removing the drivers door panel and checking the connectors.

Edited by Dan Hinkebein
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That is correct. It's a single switch in the latch on the wind screen and it controls both windows for the top release.

If the drivers window drops when you lift the door handle but not when you release the top and the passengers window drops correctly when the top is released, my guess would be that there is a loss in the wire between the windshild microswitch and the drivers door. Either a short or loose connector. It may also be a bad relay. The easiest way to test the relay is to swap it with a relay from a friends car and see it that takes care of the issue. If that doesn't take care of it I would try removing the drivers door panel and checking the connectors.

Relays - good idea :thumbup:

Will these be the white boxes above the fuse box?

Is there a relay for each window? So I could try to swap those ones as no friend with boxster close to me yet :D

In regards of the connectors, I'm dealing with that as we speak in THIS POST, so if you have any suggestions, feel free ;)

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  • 2 weeks later...
It's one relay but it's the big one that has 2 sets of pins. It typically black with a white or blue dot on it. I don't have a photo handy or I'd post it for you.

Found that, it's the biggiest relay I have ever seen in a car :) I will get it changed.

Unfortunately the roof just stoped working, can't open it, brake light on, window drops down when the hook is opened. Must be in the same department - relay.

Also what are those 2 things just next to the back/roof drain pipes. It has 2 wires coming out, are these some switchis too? Could that be a problem?

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I have made some steps forward so here it is:

1. handbrake microswitch is working - but sticking so need new one (Boxstaman???)

2. windscreen microswitch is working - window is going down when unlached - so OK and no need for new one, yet

3. windows - now this is a story

a) when roof unlached passenger window goes all the way down and drivers doesn't move at all - looks like the relay = need new one

when opening either of doors, window drops and closes correctly

4. roof - when it's wet or after a car was, it doesn't want to open - must be short cutting somewhere, no time to look for that yet

5. water drain pipes

a) front - in the battery compartment - were totally blocked (about 5L of water there). Now unblocked, but one fall through the hole. I don't know how big problem it is yet.

back - close to the door - didn't check properly, but looks ok. I must say that these are quite high, so water stays in the railing.

And now the **** exhaust heat shield started to rattle, but thats another story and thread

when Velryba's chick gets home I will have some pics too.

and now the picture :)

This is the part, but I'm not sure if it is electrical or not.

If it is not :( then the problem must be somewhere else, so please, tell me these are some kind of switches :)

post-19079-1181065813_thumb.jpg

Edited by Velryba
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Velryba,

The part in your picture is an adjustment for the clam shell. If you press it together, it's taller so the front edges of the clam shell will be lifted. You use these to level the front corners of the clam shell so that they are even with the body of the car when the clam shell is closed.

Your issue sounds like it could be a combination of thing. 1. Get the drains cleared. The standing water could cause all kinds of electrical shorts, not to mention rust and corrosion. 2. Replace the relays.

Re. the rattling heat shield, make sure it's the heat shield and not one of the plates inside the muffler. I had a technician tell me a horror story of a customer who had one of the plates inside the muffler come loose and block off the exhaust causing the car to die every time the exhaust pressure was high.

Dan

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Yes Dan, I would blame it all on relays, mind you 9years old is 9 years old :)

Now, would somebody have a picture of the relays block with comments which one does what?

As today the roof stopped in the middle of opening and I have found out that the light on the dashboard which indicates that the roof is in motion is playing up.

So what relay or switch is in connection with that warning light.

Thank you all for contributing and helping out and I'm sure that this is helping others too :D

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  • 1 month later...

hey dan,

i have a 97 boxster. i openned a thread "Side Windows Come Up By Themselves" a few days ago (8/1/07). now after input from some helpful members like 1schoir and some other research, i think my erratic window behaviors are due to the latch microswitch. 1schoir pointed me over to your thread, i just want to bounce my problem off of you and may be get some advice.

if you like more details, please read my thread. it's not that long. basically, i have a problem with both (or sometimes just one) of my side windows would come all the way up on their own, while i am idling, driving or even parked, without me touching any of the buttons. this happens only when my top is all the way down. i can push the buttons to bring the windows down with no problem but after a few minutes, they would go up on their own again. they would just stay up.

after i suspected the latch microswitch, i openned the cover and inspected the switch. actually, technically there are 2 micrswitches within the swich (i think you mentioned that). one is red, it get depressed first after a mm or so when the hook first enter the latch. the second one is black, that gets depressed when the hook is all the way inside the latch.

i am able to stop the windows from going up by sticking a piece of soft plastic into the latch. i tried a smaller piece just to get the first click (the red microswitch) but that did not work. i had to use a bigger piece of plastic so that i hear the second click (the black microswitch), that stops the windows immediately.

i touched the 2 metal strips and the 4 soldering joints, i did not see any looseness. i did see some varnish like deposit on the soldering join you mentioned in you thread.

here are my choices:

1. keep the plastic in the latch when i have the top down. when i put the top up, everything is fine.

2. buy a new latch switch

3. repair my existing switch (here is where i need help from you dan)

i am fairly handy but i am not a mechanic by profession, do you think i can do the testing and repair like you did? may be if you give me a detailed step-by-step, i can see if i can meet the challenge. someone said he just heated up the solder joins for a few second and that did the job. the metal strips are so close together, i am afraid if i heat one up, the solder would run over to the next join.

before i do anything, after hearing my symptoms, do you think it is the latch microswitch? the switch is definitely related because i can stop the problem by sticking in a piece of plastic but it could be a software problem where porsche can just re-program it or something, could that be possible?

thanks dan in adavce or anyone else who can help me save a few dollars from not going to the dealer.

later.

Edited by mustang66
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I don't think the problem your having would be with the top micro switches because the windows are going all the way down. The first switch, when activated, only drops the windows far enough to allow the top to open.

My thought would be that you have a short in the switch in your drivers door. The key lock in the door has a switch that allows you to raise of lowwer the windows from outside the car.

If you turn the key counter-clockwise to unlock the doors and hold it a few seconds, the windows will go down.

If you turn the key clockwise to lock the doors and hold it a few seconds the windows will go up.

That's the switch I would check out.

I think that by inserting somthing into the latch your over riding the command sent by the door switch causing the windows to stop. Kind of like if you press the window switch once to start the auto down then press it again and the window stops.

Dan

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