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2000 ++ Top Transmission in 1998 Boxster


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I am thinking of replacing my 98 top transmissions with the upgraded type (2000 and up). I know I will need to switch the transmissions, cables, and mounting bolts. Is there anything else that I need to replace? I ordered new push rods (with white plastic) and I am planning on using the existing pushrods for the clamshell.

What do I have to do once I install the new transmissions, other than align the two sides to be synchronized?

Thanks!

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I am thinking of replacing my 98 top transmissions with the upgraded type (2000 and up).

why? if they are working i would leave them alone. if one (or both) of them break, then i would replace them.

update: (just read your other thread). if the half-moon gear keeps coming off, then yeah, it might be wise to replace them.

Edited by Chris_in_NH
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I am thinking of replacing my 98 top transmissions with the upgraded type (2000 and up).

why? if they are working i would leave them alone. if one (or both) of them break, then i would replace them.

update: (just read your other thread). if the half-moon gear keeps coming off, then yeah, it might be wise to replace them.

Yea, one of the old gears is 'weak' - it keeps popping... I am not sure why, but it looks like the passenger side is strong, it could almost pull everything on its own, but the driver side can't keep up, and that's what is causing the problem. I found the newer transmissions (pair) on eBay for $500, pulled from a MY00 or MY01. It looks like a good deal, because Sunset charges $368 a piece just for the transmission, plus I have to get the bolts and cables separately (another $75 or so for all of them). I don't even want to know what my local dealer charges - perhaps somewhere around $500 a piece and $100 for each cable (I'll ask, just out of curiosity).

Thanks

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I am thinking of replacing my 98 top transmissions with the upgraded type (2000 and up).

why? if they are working i would leave them alone. if one (or both) of them break, then i would replace them.

update: (just read your other thread). if the half-moon gear keeps coming off, then yeah, it might be wise to replace them.

Yea, one of the old gears is 'weak' - it keeps popping... I am not sure why, but it looks like the passenger side is strong, it could almost pull everything on its own, but the driver side can't keep up, and that's what is causing the problem. I found the newer transmissions (pair) on eBay for $500, pulled from a MY00 or MY01. It looks like a good deal, because Sunset charges $368 a piece just for the transmission, plus I have to get the bolts and cables separately (another $75 or so for all of them). I don't even want to know what my local dealer charges - perhaps somewhere around $500 a piece and $100 for each cable (I'll ask, just out of curiosity).

Thanks

Is it possible that your half-moon gear on your driver's side has gone to the end of its travel as a result of you pushing the button and that it is thus so out of synch that it keeps "popping" because it has reached past the last tooth on the half-moon gear?

I would reccommend unbolting and taking apart the two transmissions (only three small phillips-head screws and a plastic cover plate) and then matching up the "faulty" (driver's side in your case) half moon gear to the correct distance of travel that is showing up on the psgr side half-moon gear. It's a simple matter to remove the two transmissions and then, with the psgr side cable disconnected from the motor, use the button in the correct direction (up or down) to get the driver side half-moon gear to the correct spot.

Then put everything back together and see if both sides work in synchronicity.

It's worth a shot before you go to the expense and extra work involved in putting in the new style transmissions.

Regards, 1schoir.

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Is it possible that your half-moon gear on your driver's side has gone to the end of its travel as a result of you pushing the button and that it is thus so out of synch that it keeps "popping" because it has reached past the last tooth on the half-moon gear?

I would reccommend unbolting and taking apart the two transmissions (only three small phillips-head screws and a plastic cover plate) and then matching up the "faulty" (driver's side in your case) half moon gear to the correct distance of travel that is showing up on the psgr side half-moon gear. It's a simple matter to remove the two transmissions and then, with the psgr side cable disconnected from the motor, use the button in the correct direction (up or down) to get the driver side half-moon gear to the correct spot.

Then put everything back together and see if both sides work in synchronicity.

It's worth a shot before you go to the expense and extra work involved in putting in the new style transmissions.

Regards, 1schoir.

Thanks for your thoughts, 1schoir. Unfortunately the problem is deeper than a simple out of synch issue. I posted my findings here: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...amp;#entry75534

I will updated that post as I move forward. Right now I am waiting for the parts to arrive.

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Is it possible that your half-moon gear on your driver's side has gone to the end of its travel as a result of you pushing the button and that it is thus so out of synch that it keeps "popping" because it has reached past the last tooth on the half-moon gear?

I would reccommend unbolting and taking apart the two transmissions (only three small phillips-head screws and a plastic cover plate) and then matching up the "faulty" (driver's side in your case) half moon gear to the correct distance of travel that is showing up on the psgr side half-moon gear. It's a simple matter to remove the two transmissions and then, with the psgr side cable disconnected from the motor, use the button in the correct direction (up or down) to get the driver side half-moon gear to the correct spot.

Then put everything back together and see if both sides work in synchronicity.

It's worth a shot before you go to the expense and extra work involved in putting in the new style transmissions.

Regards, 1schoir.

Thanks for your thoughts, 1schoir. Unfortunately the problem is deeper than a simple out of synch issue. I posted my findings here: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...amp;#entry75534

I will updated that post as I move forward. Right now I am waiting for the parts to arrive.

I read your post from the link. Wow! Sorry to learn what you have uncovered. However, it seems like you are on the right path and that you will be able to resolve it. Be absolutely sure that if your neighbor is going to weld anything on the car, you make sure that your battery is disconnected. The last thing you want to do is to fry any of the expensive electronics in your Boxster. Keep in mind that you will need the radio code after you reconnect the battery.

Will stay tuned.

Regards, 1schoir.

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Be absolutely sure that if your neighbor is going to weld anything on the car, you make sure that your battery is disconnected. The last thing you want to do is to fry any of the expensive electronics in your Boxster. Keep in mind that you will need the radio code after you reconnect the battery.

Will stay tuned.

Regards, 1schoir.

Thanks for reminding me, 1schoir! I would have kept the battery connected... I do have the radio code and tested it to make sure it works when I took out the radio to test a Pioneer. I haven't decided what I am going to replace the factory radio with yet, so I put it back in for the time being. I was thinking of getting a JVC b/c I have a JVC 12 CD changer already, but Pioneer is better. Of course, an audio upgrade involves amp, sub, and speakers upgrades as well, without those JVC will probably be just as good as the Pioneer...

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Be absolutely sure that if your neighbor is going to weld anything on the car, you make sure that your battery is disconnected. The last thing you want to do is to fry any of the expensive electronics in your Boxster. Keep in mind that you will need the radio code after you reconnect the battery.

Will stay tuned.

Regards, 1schoir.

Thanks for reminding me, 1schoir! I would have kept the battery connected... I do have the radio code and tested it to make sure it works when I took out the radio to test a Pioneer. I haven't decided what I am going to replace the factory radio with yet, so I put it back in for the time being. I was thinking of getting a JVC b/c I have a JVC 12 CD changer already, but Pioneer is better. Of course, an audio upgrade involves amp, sub, and speakers upgrades as well, without those JVC will probably be just as good as the Pioneer...

With all the $$ you are going to have saved by fixing the top yourself, you should treat yourself to some nice tunes.

Regards, 1schoir.

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  • 2 years later...

I am thinking of replacing my 98 top transmissions with the upgraded type (2000 and up). I know I will need to switch the transmissions, cables, and mounting bolts. Is there anything else that I need to replace? I ordered new push rods (with white plastic) and I am planning on using the existing pushrods for the clamshell.

What do I have to do once I install the new transmissions, other than align the two sides to be synchronized?

Thanks!

Hi,

I have a 97 Boxster and I just purchased a complete set of transmissions, cables, and motor off a 2002 Boxster from Ebay. In reading your post, it looks like the only other thing I need to do to make these work is get new mounting studs for the transmission. Can you tell me where you found the mounting studs? Also, I don't need to swap out the convertible top relay, right?

Thanks for your help!

Ron

Edited by roncanderson
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I am thinking of replacing my 98 top transmissions with the upgraded type (2000 and up). I know I will need to switch the transmissions, cables, and mounting bolts. Is there anything else that I need to replace? I ordered new push rods (with white plastic) and I am planning on using the existing pushrods for the clamshell.

What do I have to do once I install the new transmissions, other than align the two sides to be synchronized?

Thanks!

Hi,

I have a 97 Boxster and I just purchased a complete set of transmissions, cables, and motor off a 2002 Boxster from Ebay. In reading your post, it looks like the only other thing I need to do to make these work is get new mounting studs for the transmission. Can you tell me where you found the mounting studs? Also, I don't need to swap out the convertible top relay, right?

Thanks for your help!

Ron

Ron:

:welcome:

If you want to continue to rely on the early system of sensors (i.e., the B-pillar microswitch and the black lever microswitch), you don't have to replace anything other than the parts you have listed, plus the later version spacer mounting studs.

The part number for the studs that you need is 986.561.789.01 and they list for about $8.00 each (6 needed), although you can get a better price from board sponsor Sunset Imports (click on the link at the top of each page here entitled "Porsche Parts at Dealer Cost").

Your best bet may be to contact the eBay seller that sold you the parts and see if you can get the studs from that seller.

Again, as to the double relay, as long as you retain the old system, you can just use your original relay. If not, you will have to buy the "B Version" relay and do some rewiring at the electric motor and behind the relay tray. The complete B Version system is much more reliable, but the A Version works well enough when it's properly set up. Since you have the new "crosshatch" cables, you will avoid one of the problematic aspects of the early set up (i.e., stretched outer sheath resulting in one side being operated and the other not).

Take a look here for a DIY on removing/replacing the transmissions, including pics of the old and new style spacer mounting studs: http://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/installinga'03-'04glasstopandframeona'97

Specifically, take a look at the Part II PDF, around page 19.

While you are at it, be sure to verify that your foam drain trays are intact. This is very important.

Good Luck.

Regards, Maurice.

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I am thinking of replacing my 98 top transmissions with the upgraded type (2000 and up). I know I will need to switch the transmissions, cables, and mounting bolts. Is there anything else that I need to replace? I ordered new push rods (with white plastic) and I am planning on using the existing pushrods for the clamshell.

What do I have to do once I install the new transmissions, other than align the two sides to be synchronized?

Thanks!

Hi,

I have a 97 Boxster and I just purchased a complete set of transmissions, cables, and motor off a 2002 Boxster from Ebay. In reading your post, it looks like the only other thing I need to do to make these work is get new mounting studs for the transmission. Can you tell me where you found the mounting studs? Also, I don't need to swap out the convertible top relay, right?

Thanks for your help!

Ron

Ron:

welcomeani.gif

If you want to continue to rely on the early system of sensors (i.e., the B-pillar microswitch and the black lever microswitch), you don't have to replace anything other than the parts you have listed, plus the later version spacer mounting studs.

The part number for the studs that you need is 986.561.789.01 and they list for about $8.00 each (6 needed), although you can get a better price from board sponsor Sunset Imports (click on the link at the top of each page here entitled "Porsche Parts at Dealer Cost").

Your best bet may be to contact the eBay seller that sold you the parts and see if you can get the studs from that seller.

Again, as to the double relay, as long as you retain the old system, you can just use your original relay. If not, you will have to buy the "B Version" relay and do some rewiring at the electric motor and behind the relay tray. The complete B Version system is much more reliable, but the A Version works well enough when it's properly set up. Since you have the new "crosshatch" cables, you will avoid one of the problematic aspects of the early set up (i.e., stretched outer sheath resulting in one side being operated and the other not).

Take a look here for a DIY on removing/replacing the transmissions, including pics of the old and new style spacer mounting studs: http://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/installinga'03-'04glasstopandframeona'97

Specifically, take a look at the Part II PDF, around page 19.

While you are at it, be sure to verify that your foam drain trays are intact. This is very important.

Good Luck.

Regards, Maurice.

Thanks Maurice. I will continue to use the old relay and B-pillar microswitch. That being the case, can I use the new 2002 motor and move the black lever switch from my old motor to the new one?

Thanks for all your help--this is a great site.

Ron

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Thanks Maurice. I will continue to use the old relay and B-pillar microswitch. That being the case, can I use the new 2002 motor and move the black lever switch from my old motor to the new one?

Thanks for all your help--this is a great site.

Ron

Ron:

Loren deserves all the credit for running this site like a finely tuned machine! :cheers:

You can use the 2002 motor as the wiring on the motors did not change until 2004 (IIRC), but there is no real benefit in using the 2002 motor (unless your old electric motor is shot). If your old motor is still working, you can keep the 2002 motor as a spare.

Swapping those motors is a straightforward DIY, except for those two TINY little screws that hold the plastic cover onto the motor!

Regards, Maurice.

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