Questions about Door Locks, Alarm, electrical, & windows.. Stumped

[chaudanova]

Hey guys, so I'm stumped with this one. I was having my Alarm/Security System installed, and while the technician/installer was testing out the wiring for the door locks, door open/close wiring, windows, etc, some strange things happened:

Prior to this, everything worked normally. Now, these are the new symptoms:

1) Originally, the driver side door, when using the key to unlock/lock the car from the outside, this would control the central locking, and open/close both the passenger and driver side doors. (the passenger side would originally only operate the passenger side itself, and not control the driver's side). NOW, this is Switched, and the passenger side locks/unlocks BOTH sides, and the driver side door locks only control one side.

2) Prior, both sides windows, would lower slightly when opening the doors, and raise fully when the doors were closed. Now, the driver side window, doesn't do the slight lowering/raising anymore, so it hits the top frame/seals.

3) Now, the car's central lock button, stays with the red light/led on, and won't turn off.

4) The central locking button flashing light diagnostic code (blinks red twice every second, for 10 seconds), which per the Bentley manual, indicates that the "Door Safe Mode" is on (*door safe mode is the locked mode when the door lock or keyless entry transmitter is activated once, the optional alarm system and passenger compartment monitor are activated)

5) Reading the wiring, we realized that now the car thinks that the driver side door is always open. When the door is physically closed, the car's wiring still indicates and thinks that the door is open (or perhaps it was the other way around, and thinks its always closed... I forgot, but either way, it is not registering this properly). Which makes it tough also, since I have a 2002 model, and when the car door is closed and locked, the trunks won't open. Now it is stuck in this "mode".

The only things that were done during this testing, prior to the things getting funky, were the testing of 3 wires. For the door locks, windows, and I believe parking light (I could be wrong on this, but from memory, this was what was just tested for signals).

The car has the OEM keyless entry system module, and is a 2002 model. We have tested, and all fuses are okay.

*I've also tried the window memory resetting tricks, with lowering/raising, and pushing/holding down the buttons, but hasn't resolved the problem). I know that the switch/module is okay though, because when we send the signal to indicate that the doors are closed/opened, the problematic driver side still lowers/raises slightly, as it should, but only when sent the electrical signal manually.

We suspect that perhaps the door latch sensor may have gone out, the one that would send the proper signals that the door is either opened or closed.

Does anyone have any idea what is going on, and how to fix it?

Thanks in advance!

[Chris_in_NH]

your car did not come with the factory alarm and you are having it installed now, correct?

are you having it done at a Porsche dealer or independent?

is the alarm module new?

[chaudanova]

your car did not come with the factory alarm and you are having it installed now, correct?

are you having it done at a Porsche dealer or independent?

is the alarm module new?

Well, my car had the keyless entry & alarm system, but I'm having a Clifford Authorized Installer, install a Clifford security system in my car now...

And yes, the alarm module is new... but the thing is, we have not even started to install the new alarm yet... all of these weird things have occurred during the "pre-install" as he was testing/verifying the proper wires to tap into.

Any ideas?

Thanks!

[Loren]

JMHO but I think you are asking for trouble installing two alarms on the car and expecting to use the same circuits.

[Chris_in_NH]

Well, my car had the keyless entry & alarm system, but I'm having a Clifford Authorized Installer, install a Clifford security system in my car now...

And yes, the alarm module is new... but the thing is, we have not even started to install the new alarm yet... all of these weird things have occurred during the "pre-install" as he was testing/verifying the proper wires to tap into.

Any ideas?

Thanks!

i'm with Loren on this one. i think you are asking for trouble installing two alarms, and especially using the same wiring as the OEM alarm system. has this installer done this to other Boxsters? if he's poking around testing wires, i'm guessing that he hasn't.

the only way anyone could steal your car is if you left the keys in it or it was flatbedded away. what is this extra system going to get you? (just curious) ;)

[juniinc]

installer probably blew the alarm fuse by poking around,,,

It is extremely difficult to intergrate 2 systems on a 986.

but it can be done! but really comlicated.

Installer will need to eliminate some of a few factory circuits,

easiest way would be cap off central locking actuator, re utilize with your Clifford.

for 2 doors monitoring, he can tap it with the interior dome switch circuit, as well as your front & rear trunk - all it needs is a + signal to your new system.

[chaudanova]

Hey guys, thanks for the responses so far. I'm starting to really think this is related to the door latch & microswitches... anyone have more insight on this, and think that the symptoms match up to that?

I ran the Durametric diagnosis and got these Alarm fault codes:

***************************************************************

Alarm

Current Fault Codes

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

47

Control locking synchronization

Status: present

Frequency counter: 5

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

61

Central locking limit position

Unlock not reached

Status: present

Frequency counter: 6

***************************************************************

[Loren]

Hey guys, thanks for the responses so far. I'm starting to really think this is related to the door latch & microswitches... anyone have more insight on this, and think that the symptoms match up to that?

I ran the Durametric diagnosis and got these Alarm fault codes:

***************************************************************

Alarm

Current Fault Codes

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

47

Control locking synchronization

Status: present

Frequency counter: 5

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

61

Central locking limit position

Unlock not reached

Status: present

Frequency counter: 6

***************************************************************

47 Central locking synchronization - Central locking not possible

Possible cause of fault

- Short circuit to ground/open circuit between alarm system control module and door locks

- Door lock faulty

61 Central locking limit position, Unlocked not reached - Central locking not possible

Possible cause of fault

- Incorrect country coding

- Short circuit to ground/open circuit in wiring between the alarm system control module, central locking switch or door locks

- Door lock (driver's/passenger's) faulty

- Control module faulty

I have seen fault 47 on a number of cars and one of theories is that you can cause this fault by trying to lock the door before it is closed.

We usually erase the faults (which unfortunately you can't do with the Durametric software) and see if they come back.

If locking/unlocking is working on the car I would not worry about these two faults. If not, further investigation is needed.

[chaudanova]

47 Central locking synchronization - Central locking not possible

Possible cause of fault

- Short circuit to ground/open circuit between alarm system control module and door locks

- Door lock faulty

61 Central locking limit position, Unlocked not reached - Central locking not possible

Possible cause of fault

- Incorrect country coding

- Short circuit to ground/open circuit in wiring between the alarm system control module, central locking switch or door locks

- Door lock (driver's/passenger's) faulty

- Control module faulty

I have seen fault 47 on a number of cars and one of theories is that you can cause this fault by trying to lock the door before it is closed.

We usually erase the faults (which unfortunately you can't do with the Durametric software) and see if they come back.

If locking/unlocking is working on the car I would not worry about these two faults. If not, further investigation is needed.

Hi Loren, I tried to clear the codes with the Durametric, but they remain... A service manager over the phone thinks that since the alarm installer, was testing the wires and locking/unlocking while the driver side door was still open, that it may have put too much stress on the door latch/microswitch and burnt it out.

I can still lock/unlock the doors, but it has to be done from the outside with the key from the passenger side. To get in the car now, I have to unlock from the passenger side door, and I have to hold the key to the side, so that the windows will lower (since the driver side window won't drop slightly to clear the frame).... and then when I get out of the car, I have to lower my window slightly, so that it can close to the window frame... then go over to the passenger side, and manually lock with the key, and hold the key over to the side, so that it will raise the windows all the way up.

I believe it may in fact be a faulty door latch microswitch, since if I manually trigger the door sensor from the driver side, the window will do its slight drop/raise, like it is supposed to... I think the problem lays in that the door always thinks it is closed, even when it is opened (or, vise versa).

The central locking LED light still blinks twice every second for ten seconds, indicating "door safe mode"... I still can't figure out how to reset this either.

I've tried to disconnect the battery for 24hrs, along with trying to clear codes with Durametric, but still no luck...

Aside from getting this to the dealer to get it diagnosed with a PST2 and spend gobs of money, do you have any other ideas I can try? Could a faulty ignition switch have anything to do with this?

Thanks in advance!

:renntech:

[Loren]

Usually a bad ignition switch gives many electrical anomalies.

[chaudanova]

Usually a bad ignition switch gives many electrical anomalies.

Loren, based on all of the symptoms above, do you think it is the driver side door latch/microswitch(es), or what would be your best guess from what I've outlined...?

Thanks!