Help! No A/C

[DFW996]

I was driving home and smelled burning electrical or rubber. I noticed my A/C became warm and inspected when I got home and look at compressor pulley area. What do you think it could be.

[DFW996]

I will probably recharge, but which port is it left or lower right. A/C compressor still clicks on and air is still blowing but warm

[CJ_Boxster]

Judging by the smell and the rubber dust all over the place, its safe to say your A/C compressor is seized. You'll need a new one and have to recharge the system.

With the firewall cover off, start the engine with the A/C off, then keep your eye on the compressor pulley and turn on the A/C, if the pulley on the compressor stops moving and the belt just slides on it, your compressor is junk.

[DFW996]

thanks for the reply CJ...the belt and pulley move but the middle doesnt move with either the A/C on or off...do you think I can still drive the car without damaging anything else on the belt causing resistance if the pulley does seize?

[wvicary]

I wouldn't drive the car, get it towed to the nearest repair garage.

[DFW996]

thanks for reply..My car is at home and thinking of replacing clutch and found it at denso.com for $142.00 and if that doesnt work then I can buy the compressor w/out the clutch for $514.00...autozone had the compressor for $841.00 plus core for $65.00...

[rb101]

you need to replace both, the compressor and the clutch. The clutch has been damaged trying to turn a frozen compressor.

Rick

99 996C4

87 044S

[wwest]

you need to replace both, the compressor and the clutch. The clutch has been damaged trying to turn a frozen compressor.

Rick

99 996C4

87 044S

"trying to turn a frozen compressor...."

No, maybe not.

For some reason there seems to be a "spat" of electromagnetic clutch failures recently apparently due to the epoxy material surrounding the electric coil having not completely cured and then melting under use and engine compartment heat.

[JeTexas]

If you change the compressor, you should also change the dryer.

I believe you charge on the low pressure line, which is the smaller one, but you can't just put coolant in. You need to pull a deep vacuum on the system first.

[DFW996]

Well I guess I will take my car to Mayos performance here in Hurst, Texas outside of Dallas for $1,600.00 smackaroos.....compressor, drier, flush, recharge etc...thanks to everyone that replied..

tom

[JeTexas]

Changing out the compressor and dryer isn't hard. You could probably save if you change it all out and then just take it to be recharged.

[wwest]

If you change the compressor, you should also change the dryer.

I believe you charge on the low pressure line, which is the smaller one, but you can't just put coolant in. You need to pull a deep vacuum on the system first.

Yes, you add refrigerant via the low (<50PSI) pressure line, but I suspect in this case (if not all) the low pressure (vapor) line is the FAT one. Note that the pressure sensor/switches is in the smaller line where it can be used both to turn off the compressor once the high pressure side reaches the upper limit and prevent the compressor from operating if the system pressure is too low.

You can add refrigerant as a test without "pulling" a vacuum on the system. But in the normal case the only reason you should need to add refrigerant is because the system has a leak somewhere.

Edited July 30, 2008 by wwest

[JeTexas]

If you change the compressor, you should also change the dryer.

I believe you charge on the low pressure line, which is the smaller one, but you can't just put coolant in. You need to pull a deep vacuum on the system first.

Yes, you add refrigerant via the low (<50PSI) pressure line, but I suspect in this case (if not all) the low pressure (vapor) line is the FAT one. Note that the pressure sensor/switches is in the smaller line where it can be used both to turn off the compressor once the high pressure side reaches the upper limit and prevent the compressor from operating if the system pressure is too low.

You can add refrigerant as a test without "pulling" a vacuum on the system. But in the normal case the only reason you should need to add refrigerant is because the system has a leak somewhere.

Good catch. Although, I'm sure he would have figured out the small one was high pressure when it started spraying at him. lol

[wwest]

If you change the compressor, you should also change the dryer.

I believe you charge on the low pressure line, which is the smaller one, but you can't just put coolant in. You need to pull a deep vacuum on the system first.

Yes, you add refrigerant via the low (<50PSI) pressure line, but I suspect in this case (if not all) the low pressure (vapor) line is the FAT one. Note that the pressure sensor/switches is in the smaller line where it can be used both to turn off the compressor once the high pressure side reaches the upper limit and prevent the compressor from operating if the system pressure is too low.

You can add refrigerant as a test without "pulling" a vacuum on the system. But in the normal case the only reason you should need to add refrigerant is because the system has a leak somewhere.

Good catch. Although, I'm sure he would have figured out the small one was high pressure when it started spraying at him. lol

Do you mean "spraying at him" as in the retail refrigerant filler can exploding due to the design pressure being dramatically exceeded..?? :rolleyes:

Edited July 31, 2008 by wwest