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Star is Reborn


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She first fired up last night --

Ran her for 20 minutes -- then flushed the oil....

Picked her up today -- gave her a test spin --- sounds and drives

silky smooth ---

Still trying to fully burp the coolant system -- once that is behind

us I will feel more comfortable driving around.

For the full story -- check the link full of pix and captions.....

Been a Porsche owner for 6 months -- now a happy Porsche driver :-)

m

Pictorial of the Resurrection on my Boxster S

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Nice bit of sleuthing.

You should be able to "burp" it after multiple one mile laps. I just mix up several gallons of coolant ahead of time and keep feeding it till the temp gauge quits creeping up and the coolant level stabilizes. May be a little unnerving after your problems.

Regards, PK

Edited by pk2
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I used to have a mid engine Lancia. When you changed the coolant there was a bleed vent/screw at the top furthest point in the front radiator to make this process easy. Does the Boxster have a similar way of doing it? I'm not find changing the coolant in my manual (Sure it's there)

Dan

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I used to have a mid engine Lancia. When you changed the coolant there was a bleed vent/screw at the top furthest point in the front radiator to make this process easy. Does the Boxster have a similar way of doing it? I'm not find changing the coolant in my manual (Sure it's there)

Dan

There is a bleed valve on top of the coolant tank.

Latch it in the open position for a few days being sure to top up the tank daily. When the level stops going down you can close the valve.

BTW... it does not hurt to drive with the valve in bleed position - Cup Car racers do it all the time.

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I used to have a mid engine Lancia. When you changed the coolant there was a bleed vent/screw at the top furthest point in the front radiator to make this process easy. Does the Boxster have a similar way of doing it? I'm not find changing the coolant in my manual (Sure it's there)

Dan

Must have been a Scorpion no doubt?

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I used to have a mid engine Lancia. When you changed the coolant there was a bleed vent/screw at the top furthest point in the front radiator to make this process easy. Does the Boxster have a similar way of doing it? I'm not find changing the coolant in my manual (Sure it's there)

Dan

There is a bleed valve on top of the coolant tank.

Latch it in the open position for a few days being sure to top up the tank daily. When the level stops going down you can close the valve.

BTW... it does not hurt to drive with the valve in bleed position - Cup Car racers do it all the time.

+1 Loren

I ran with the bleed valve open for several weeks when I had a cracked coolant tank with no issues. The tank did not leak with valve open (not under pressure) and allowed me to replace the tank at my leisure.

Back to the OP. I wonder how many engines have been tossed due to misdiagnosed failure mode or just the economics of the replacement program? I spoke to an owner who had been diagnosed with a cracked sleeve which turned out to really be a oil cooler failure.

Back years ago, nobody would toss an entire engine due to a failed valve spring due to replacement cost but that scenario is likely highly played out today. In 1995 a factory rebuilt 911SC motor was about $15k.

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I used to have a mid engine Lancia. When you changed the coolant there was a bleed vent/screw at the top furthest point in the front radiator to make this process easy. Does the Boxster have a similar way of doing it? I'm not find changing the coolant in my manual (Sure it's there)

Dan

There is a bleed valve on top of the coolant tank.

Latch it in the open position for a few days being sure to top up the tank daily. When the level stops going down you can close the valve.

BTW... it does not hurt to drive with the valve in bleed position - Cup Car racers do it all the time.

+1 Loren

I ran with the bleed valve open for several weeks when I had a cracked coolant tank with no issues. The tank did not leak with valve open (not under pressure) and allowed me to replace the tank at my leisure.

Back to the OP. I wonder how many engines have been tossed due to misdiagnosed failure mode or just the economics of the replacement program? I spoke to an owner who had been diagnosed with a cracked sleeve which turned out to really be a oil cooler failure.

Back years ago, nobody would toss an entire engine due to a failed valve spring due to replacement cost but that scenario is likely highly played out today. In 1995 a factory rebuilt 911SC motor was about $15k.

No doubt -- but it's cheaper to replace the whole engine than it is to pay Porsche Mechanics rates to perform the rebuild.

There is a LOT of hours to perform a complete tear down and rebuild.

Got 300 miles on it now -- running just fine!

love to find a nice 911 with a blown engine and do the same rebuild!

m

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