Track Day caused CEL P0740, P1128 and P1130?

[kevinkw]

Hi All,

I have a 1999 996 C4 Tip with 58,000 miles. I took it to a PCA event yesterday and had a lot of fun with the car. The car passed a tech inspection at the local indie shop a couple of weeks prior. There was some oil splatter on the bumper, and we checked the engine oil level and it was a couple of mm higher than the max on the dipstick. People thought that the oil might be due to the overfill of the engine oil leaking down and getting sucked up at high speeds up to the rear bumper. No CEL on the drive home after the driver education event at the track.

No CEL on the way to work, but the CEL did light up on the way home when I stopped for some shopping. I hooked the OBD2 reader and codes P0740, P1128, and P1130 all came up. Was this caused by driving the car hard at the DE event when the oil was overfilled, or doing the DE just made the car decide it wanted the 60k mile service earlier?

The car drives fine, no smoke, no oil splatter, just the CEL is now on.

-Kevin

Edited June 12, 2009 by kevinkw

[Loren]

P0740 Torque converter clutch, excessive power consumption

Possible fault cause:

- Torque converter clutch not functioning

I would clear this one and see if it comes back in normal driving.

P1128 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Idle Range, Bank 1 – Above Limit

P1130 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Idle Range, Bank 2 – Above Limit

or

P1128 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Idle Range, Bank 1 – Below Limit

P1130 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Idle Range, Bank 2 – Below Limit

I would start by cleaning the MAF and checking the throttle body for oil.

I always run my car 3/4 full on oil at the track.

[kevinkw]

I'm trying to take the MAF out, but it looks like the T20 they're using has an extra bit that sticks out in the middle? What kind of screw is that? Also the screw on the bottom is facing away and below me, which seems hard to get to?

Is there an illustrated how to?

[Loren]

I'm trying to take the MAF out, but it looks like the T20 they're using has an extra bit that sticks out in the middle? What kind of screw is that? Also the screw on the bottom is facing away and below me, which seems hard to get to?

Is there an illustrated how to?

Security Torx - needs a hole in the center.

Covered here many times before.

[kevinkw]

Hey Loren,

Thanks for your help. I turned off the CEL lights, and cleaned the MAF (after hunting down some security torx). After a couple of days of driving, the CEL has come back. This time with the 1128/1130 codes only.

I'm a total newbie at working on my own car, so I need to ask about your earlier post.

1. What exactly is the the throttle body, and how do I check it for oil. If there is oil, what should I do?

2. Some other posts mentioned the air oil separator, what is that, would that have something to do with this?

3. Are the two above DIYable? Should I go clean the MAF again, and just hose it with the contact cleaner? And be ready to buy a new MAF?

Thanks,

Kevin

[Loren]

Hey Loren,

Thanks for your help. I turned off the CEL lights, and cleaned the MAF (after hunting down some security torx). After a couple of days of driving, the CEL has come back. This time with the 1128/1130 codes only.

I'm a total newbie at working on my own car, so I need to ask about your earlier post.

1. What exactly is the the throttle body, and how do I check it for oil. If there is oil, what should I do?

2. Some other posts mentioned the air oil separator, what is that, would that have something to do with this?

3. Are the two above DIYable? Should I go clean the MAF again, and just hose it with the contact cleaner? And be ready to buy a new MAF?

Thanks,

Kevin

1. Covered here many times before in different threads.

2. That is why you are checking for oil in the throttle body - a bad AOS will have allow a lot of oil in the throttle body - whereas normally you just have very light film (and carbon).

If there is a lot of oil in the throttle body then you might want to find a skilled mechanic as the AOS can be a bear to change for first timers.

3. Only use MAF cleaner on the MAF - too many folks have ruined them with the wrong chemicals.

[kevinkw]

Hey Loren,

Thanks for the advice. I sprayed some electrical contact cleaner on the MAF contacts the first time around. This time I bought a can of the MAF cleaner. Any idea exactly where on the MAF module I should spray the thing?

[Loren]

Take it out and spray the end with the delicate metal film and diode.

[kevinkw]

Thanks for the advice Loren.

I took out the MAF again, and sprayed it with some MAF cleaner on the metal sheet in between the plastic.

I also took the rubber hosing to the throttle body off and check for oil. There's no oil in the rubber hosing, and I cleaned the throttle body valve of gunk with throttle body cleaner spray. I didn't notice oil near the valve.

I did take a picture deeper in to the throttle body, I can't really tell if the attached picture is what you would consider a film of oil, or if it's oil at all?

[Loren]

Thanks for the advice Loren.

I took out the MAF again, and sprayed it with some MAF cleaner on the metal sheet in between the plastic.

I also took the rubber hosing to the throttle body off and check for oil. There's no oil in the rubber hosing, and I cleaned the throttle body valve of gunk with throttle body cleaner spray. I didn't notice oil near the valve.

I did take a picture deeper in to the throttle body, I can't really tell if the attached picture is what you would consider a film of oil, or if it's oil at all?

This is what I am talking about when I say throttle body.

[kevinkw]

Hey Loren,

Thanks for the clarification, the site has helped me get over the fear of working on my own car quite a bit.

The there's no oil on the outside, and none that I can see around the valve opening area. The picture I took was opening the valve trying to look inside, except I can't tell if it is oil or just carbon build up. I was hoping that you can tell from the picture.

Am I supposed to completely remove the throttle body from the car to look at it from the part where it attached to the engine?

If the AOS is bad, is it supposed to be an obvious amount of oil? Does the oil get on the valve and where it connects with the rubber housing? I didn't see any there, and didn't feel any oil as far as my finger can reach into the throttle body valve opening.

Edited June 17, 2009 by kevinkw

[Loren]

Okay, sorry I understand your picture now - it looks clean.

Likely a bad MAF at this point.

If you have the Durametric software (or a PST2 or PIWIS tester) you can read the MAF and see if the readings are at spec at idle and 2500 RPM.

Only way to be 100% sure it's the MAF.

[kevinkw]

Okay, sorry I understand your picture now - it looks clean.

Likely a bad MAF at this point.

If you have the Durametric software (or a PST2 or PIWIS tester) you can read the MAF and see if the readings are at spec at idle and 2500 RPM.

Only way to be 100% sure it's the MAF.

The CEL came back again. Sunset is the best place to order it?

[kevinkw]

The quote I got from Sunset is $591...

Has anyone bought a MAF on eBay from these guys? They have a new one here for $230.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsche-911...#ht_1810wt_1309

Or these guys who have after market non-OEM for $150ish

http://www.maxspeed-motorsports.com/99660612300.html

Any suggestions?

Edited June 18, 2009 by kevinkw

[c70Pete]

hold the show here guys...

1128/1130 I got these errors when my oil filler cap was not on tight! it was sucking excess air into the crankcase and these errors developed..... it could be easy as that! check to make sure your oil cap is on tight...

[kevinkw]

Thanks for the suggestion Pete, I checked this morning, it was on tight. Then I thought about what you said, I was wondering if people here have run across where the oil filler hose itself might be cracked or has a leak somewhere since it looks like it's made of plastic?

[mp911]

I had same codes and replaced MAF sensor, problem solved. Got it from Pelican Parts, make sure you get the right one based on your VIN (e-accellerator).

[kevinkw]

I had same codes and replaced MAF sensor, problem solved. Got it from Pelican Parts, make sure you get the right one based on your VIN (e-accellerator).

Thanks for the advice for Pelican, they have it for $234, and the Porsche stamped one is $651. I can see where Sunset's price quote came from.

I have a 1999 Carrera 4, so it's the E-Gas version.

I'll give my current MAF one more cleaning today, and if that doesn't work, will order the part from Pelican.

[galtenbaugh]

Okay, sorry I understand your picture now - it looks clean.

Likely a bad MAF at this point.

If you have the Durametric software (or a PST2 or PIWIS tester) you can read the MAF and see if the readings are at spec at idle and 2500 RPM.

Only way to be 100% sure it's the MAF.

Do you know what the spec readings are for the MAF?

George

[Loren]

Okay, sorry I understand your picture now - it looks clean.

Likely a bad MAF at this point.

If you have the Durametric software (or a PST2 or PIWIS tester) you can read the MAF and see if the readings are at spec at idle and 2500 RPM.

Only way to be 100% sure it's the MAF.

Do you know what the spec readings are for the MAF?

George

Model and year of your car?

[galtenbaugh]

Okay, sorry I understand your picture now - it looks clean.

Likely a bad MAF at this point.

If you have the Durametric software (or a PST2 or PIWIS tester) you can read the MAF and see if the readings are at spec at idle and 2500 RPM.

Only way to be 100% sure it's the MAF.

Do you know what the spec readings are for the MAF?

George

Model and year of your car?

It's a 3.4L 996 motor in a 2000 Boxster.

[kevinkw]

I installed the new MAF, and the code is back again...

Anything else I can check, or time to take it in?

[RFM]

Check the engine for air leaks, since the car shows fault codes for both cylinder banks, you have to check the central part of the intake/breading system: AOS - bellows AOS - oil filler tube - oil filler cap+gasket - all vacuum tubes big and small, inclusive brake booster - intake manifold rubber connecting tubes - etc. Good hunting.

[galtenbaugh]

Check the engine for air leaks, since the car shows fault codes for both cylinder banks, you have to check the central part of the intake/breading system: AOS - bellows AOS - oil filler tube - oil filler cap+gasket - all vacuum tubes big and small, inclusive brake booster - intake manifold rubber connecting tubes - etc. Good hunting.

Checking for leaks it an excellent idea. The easiest way to check is to find a shop that has a smoke generator. They plug up the intake and inject pressurized smoke into the engine. It will cost you an hour's labor at the shop but it will save you countless hours of manually looking for leaks. When I did it after finishing my 3.4L Boxster conversion my shop found 3 leaks, 2 of which I never would have found on my own.

George

[kevinkw]

Took it to the shop, turns out that one of the hoses that goes into the air oil separator was cracked in two places.