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Headers Install


I've been planning to install B&B headers on my '97 Boxster for some time. ALL the bolts looked very rusty and the bolts holding the exhaust manifold to the front of the catalytic converter were in very sad shape. I wasn't too concerned about the latter because I knew I could cut them off with a cut-off wheel, etc... The manifold to cylinder head bolts are another story... For the last month or so, I've been soaking the 6 exhaust manifold bolts on each side with PB Blaster and WD-40 every few days, sometimes two or three days in a row. I have read about (and previously experienced in a BMW 2002) exhaust bolts and studs rusting solid and snapping off. I know that's no fun, hence the attempt at preventative steps. The good news: On driver's side, even though they were tough, all six bolts came out without snapping off inside the cylinder head! The bad news: On the passenger's side, the first two came out with difficulty, but the next four snapped off flush with the head or slightly protruding from the head. I did try to heat up the front bolt and the rear bolt with a propane torch, but that didn't help... They snapped off anyway. More good news: I managed to drill holes (first 7/64 and then 5/32 bits) pretty close to dead center on each of the four bolts. Predictably, the forwardmost bolt is somewhat obstructed by the thermostat housing and coolant hose, but I'll deal with that later. Here are photos of the broken bolts with holes (about 1/2" deep) drilled into the middle of them: I tried to extract this bolt with a screw extractor (size #3, into the 5/32nds hole) and it snapped off inside the nicely drilled hole. Thankfully, I managed to extract the broken bit of hardened steel of the extractor by cutting a slot in it with my trusty dremel. So, now I think I'm in good shape again, but looking for suggestions on how to continue the extraction process. All suggestions welcome, especially the overkill ones because these broken bolts are in there pretty good. I've started to soak them with PB-Blaster in their newly cut-off state. BTW, getting the rear of the car WAY up on jackstands (bumper at chest level) has made this experience a lot more enjoyable than I remember. If I can get them out, I'll feel really good especially because I'm planning to add a PSE exhaust as soon as the headers are on! Regards, Maurice.

 

Edited by 1schoir

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I would use a good bolt to mark the length on my drill bit and keep drilling them out with larger and larger bits then rethread the holes. Sometimes the bolt your drilling out will just crumble and come out halfway through the process if you're lucky.

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Have the vehicle towed to a shop that can use weld to shrink the remainder of the stud while some of it is still sticking out of the cylinder head. It's an old trick where you MIG or Stick weld a nut onto the broken stud and as it cools it shrinks the stud slightly and then they turn right out.

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Have the vehicle towed to a shop that can use weld to shrink the remainder of the stud while some of it is still sticking out of the cylinder head. It's an old trick where you MIG or Stick weld a nut onto the broken stud and as it cools it shrinks the stud slightly and then they turn right out.

Do you think the same effect could be had by heating the remaining part of the stud cherry red hot and then trying to remove it?

My friend (who owns a service station) has an electronic tool that heats bolts cherry red in less than a minute and I was wondering if that would help?

Regards, Maurice.

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Each time you heat the stud it changes it temper and it becomes brittle and you risk causing more damage or other problems. If you find an experienced welder or mill wright, he should have no problems removing the broken pieces.

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you are lucky you got your starter holes centered:-) i'm never that good"-(

try JeTexas's idea with this twist.

some of the machine supply shops like MSC and local supply stores sell lefthand drill bits, (they cut in the opposite direction). Your's sound like they may be to solid to pop loose but you might try it.

get a set of the sizes you would use the drill out the stud in steps.

Drill all the way thru the stud, have some modeling clay handy, squirt the lube up in and plug the hole for a day or 2.

Then use the reverse bits to start drilling out the stud. if the bit does bind in the stud it may pop the stud loose. buy extra's i usually break one or two.

Good luck and let know what works best.

Lance

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you are lucky you got your starter holes centered:-) i'm never that good"-(

try JeTexas's idea with this twist.

some of the machine supply shops like MSC and local supply stores sell lefthand drill bits, (they cut in the opposite direction). Your's sound like they may be to solid to pop loose but you might try it.

get a set of the sizes you would use the drill out the stud in steps.

Drill all the way thru the stud, have some modeling clay handy, squirt the lube up in and plug the hole for a day or 2.

Then use the reverse bits to start drilling out the stud. if the bit does bind in the stud it may pop the stud loose. buy extra's i usually break one or two.

Good luck and let know what works best.

Lance

Lance:

Quite an ingenious idea with the modeling clay as a twist! I'll definitely give that method a try, in addition to gradually increasing the drill bit size and using left hand drill bits. I just got a really good set with Cobalt extractors from my friend's machine shop.

I'll keep you posted in a couple of days.

Regards, Maurice.

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you are lucky you got your starter holes centered:-) i'm never that good"-(

try JeTexas's idea with this twist.

some of the machine supply shops like MSC and local supply stores sell lefthand drill bits, (they cut in the opposite direction). Your's sound like they may be to solid to pop loose but you might try it.

get a set of the sizes you would use the drill out the stud in steps.

Drill all the way thru the stud, have some modeling clay handy, squirt the lube up in and plug the hole for a day or 2.

Then use the reverse bits to start drilling out the stud. if the bit does bind in the stud it may pop the stud loose. buy extra's i usually break one or two.

Good luck and let know what works best.

Lance

Lance:

Quite an ingenious idea with the modeling clay as a twist! I'll definitely give that method a try, in addition to gradually increasing the drill bit size and using left hand drill bits. I just got a really good set with Cobalt extractors from my friend's machine shop.

I'll keep you posted in a couple of days.

Regards, Maurice.

Maurice,

You left us hanging. How did you finally get the studs out? How does the header and exhaust sound? What increase in HP have you seen?

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Maurice,

You left us hanging. How did you finally get the studs out? How does the header and exhaust sound? What increase in HP have you seen?

msmolinski:

Sorry about that! The headers with the PSE exhaust sounds as sweet as you can imagine!!!

I don't know about any increase in HP, except for that magical seat-of-the-pants dyno which makes it feel like it has more HP. The sound alone is worth everything, and the looks of the exhaust from behind and of the headers from underneath is also quite special.

Here is a link to the saga, detailing what happened and what I learned: http://www.ppbb.com/phorum/read.php?19,155...140#msg-1552140

Let me know if you are considering removing your old exhaust manifold.

Regards, Maurice.

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