Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)
DamageINC123

Check Engine Mount

Recommended Posts

1997 with 30,000 miles

Is there a way possible to check the front engine mount without removing it. I have a little vibration at high RPMs. Lets say around 5,000 plus. The three things I hear that happen are.....

1). Difficult gear changing as well as gear shift moves around more than normal with accel and decel. (IE 3rd Gear)

2). Clunking noise on sharp turns

3) Vibration around 3,000 RPMs

I am experiencing non of the 3 but I do have a little vibration. I did not think much about until I drove my friends 2000 with the 2.7ltr. Am I just being parinoid? Is there a way to put it on a rack and check without removing?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
    You can remove these ads by becoming a Contributing Member.

1997 with 30,000 miles

Is there a way possible to check the front engine mount without removing it. I have a little vibration at high RPMs. Lets say around 5,000 plus. The three things I hear that happen are.....

1). Difficult gear changing as well as gear shift moves around more than normal with accel and decel. (IE 3rd Gear)

2). Clunking noise on sharp turns

3) Vibration around 3,000 RPMs

I am experiencing non of the 3 but I do have a little vibration. I did not think much about until I drove my friends 2000 with the 2.7ltr. Am I just being parinoid? Is there a way to put it on a rack and check without removing?

You could check it without removing it but I don't think very thoroughly as you can see by the photo I've posted showing Pedro's Techno Mount installed on my '99. I've also included a pick of the OEM mount that had 77K mi. on it and as you can see it is cracked all the way through and worn out. My Box has a Tiptronic trans and to be honest with you I did not notice any difference in how the car drove after I installed the new mount except I opted for the Pedro's Enthusiast Mount which is beefier, larger designed for the occasional tracker and AXer. The mount transmits a significant amount of vibration into the cab which I knew about and accepted as a compromise to equip the car for the stresses put on it for track use.

post-47594-1260547809_thumb.jpg

post-47594-1260547841_thumb.jpg

Edited by infocusf8

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I wonder if I can see it with a light and a mirror. My thought are if I am gonna remove it, then I will go ahead and replace it and I hate to replace something that doesnt need replacing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I found the mounts were pretty much shot on our 01 base around 40k. The signs(vibrations, poor shifting, etc) were definitely there at 30k. You might though, run through some ancillaries(TB, plugs, fuel & air filters, updated aos, etc..) to make sure the car is as smooth as it can be and you have a decent basis to work off of for diagnostics. I replaced the front mount at 42k and the trans mounts about 10k later, and should have done them all at the same time.

regards

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just replaced this in my 01 c2, You will need to press it out and press in a new one, I had the tranny out anyway. I got a wicked vibration at 3000 whilst decelerating. Pelican parts for $80.00. You might try to rig up some sort of clamp system to press it out while in the car. In the c2, I had access when the tranny was tilted downward.

Good luck

James Greer

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just had the 30,000 mile tune up done and they did not say anything about the vibration. Like I said, its only when you wind it out. I will see if I can get a look at it or maybe at the first of the year jus swap it out anyway.

Edited by DamageINC123

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I just replaced this in my 01 c2, You will need to press it out and press in a new one, I had the tranny out anyway. I got a wicked vibration at 3000 whilst decelerating. Pelican parts for $80.00. You might try to rig up some sort of clamp system to press it out while in the car. In the c2, I had access when the tranny was tilted downward.

Good luck

James Greer

You are refering to replacing just the insert of the mount? Right? Isn't it just easier to unbolt the mount and remove it to press in a new resilent core?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've found it practically impossible to thoroughly check the front engine mount without removing it.

Even using an endoscope-type camera is not good enough.

The main reason is that there are two rubber stoppers on either side of the central core which prevent seeing the core.

Also, because the rubber is black, it's difficult to see a crack unless it's well lit.

My rule of thumb is: Over 45,000 miles, I guarantee it's gone ( OEM mount).

But it's really not that difficult or time-consuming to check.

Maybe 30 minutes to remove the panel, support the engine with a jack, remove the yolk, loosen the mount bolts and lowering engine.

Happy Boxstering,

Pedro

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.