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I had my passenger window down today, went to put it up and it hesitated and went back down. I did it a time or two more then something (sounded like it was a plastic piece) snapped. I had to pull the window up while hitting the window switch up to get it to stay. The motor seems like it's working but something on the guide or track went. Before I spend 2+ hours pulling the panel and drilling the rivets to the cover panel, has anyone experienced this? I am afraid to take everything apart and then not have the parts with the window stuck in the down position?


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This job is definitely not the same as a sports car. After removing the door panel you won't see a trace of the regulator. You have to remove the inner door aggregate as well, which can be quite a PITA. Its not rocket science but there are a few tricks to know. There are 4 T45 screws which hold the inner aggregate in. You'll also have to disconnect the door wiring harness from the vehicle. The door latch module and all the door wiring comes out with the aggregate so you'll have to undo the cable from the door lock to the outer door handle.

Good luck.

Edited by PTEC
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You are correct. There are 4 parts to the door:

1. The inside cover panel

2. The black metal cover panel that holds the power window motor and other wires that has to have 6 rivets drillled out to remove it.

3. The inner door structure which consists of the window frame, cross bars and window regulator (rails & cables).

4. The actual door skin. Hinges, handle etc.

I did not have to disconnect the door wiring harness to get the inner door structure that had the regulator attached nor did I have to do anything with the outer door handle, I just disconnected the cable at the inner door handle. I did try to put a new cable on the regulator but was un-successful. I would definately order the regualtor before you do this. It is not difficult but very time consuming. I will follow up once I do the complete job.

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Hmm if you didn't have to remove the wiring or remove the cable for the outer door handle it sounds like you may not have done the repair the way the service manual tells you to do it. Do you have pictures? I'm interested to see exactly what you did as it sounds like it might be an easier way to do the job.

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The only wiring I had to remove were the connectors to the power window motor, the power mirror wires, the main speaker wire and the cable connector at the door handle to get the cover panel off. That allowed me to free up the motor from the window regulator that coils up the cables in the up and down motion. I did not fully remove the black steel panel (there was no need to do that. What I did to remove the frame/window and regulator assembly was to remove the 4 bolts as you noted in the outer corners of the door jamb area. Once that was loose I lifted the window frame upward 6 inches and guided the right or lock side out. Then just re installed in the reverse. I did not take photos because I tried to make the repair on the cable only and probably would have been successful had I not also removed and installed the water pump that morning. I was shot by the days end and this one got the best of me. I think the cables are repairable but I don't want to take everything apart again unless I replace the whole unit. For an $85.00 part, it's not worth my time.

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  • 6 years later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Old thread but relevant. Need some quick help here – I was supposed to leave on a really important trip this morning, but I rolled up the passenger window and heard a snap/grinding and now the window won’t even stay up.


I just want to get it open so I can tie up the cable some how to keep it firmly closed, but I can’t get the **** inner black steel panel off. I took out all the bolts and the 4 big rivets along the top, plus two very small ones that tack it to the frame of the door on either side. But there is something holding it on in the area near where the door cable comes out. If I bend it out and look down I can just see some levers and such still attached to the steel plate. Its somewhere in the area in the picture – is mine different some how? Of the three blue arrows the top is a plastic clip but the others are rivets. Also there is an ominous looking rivet you can see down an access hole in red. If I drill these out I don’t think I will ever get it back together in time. Does any of this sound familiar to anyone? Much appreciated. 2004 CTT.



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I tried duct tape, but going over bumps it would just fall...there is no support for the window right now, and I have to drive for several days.


Wedges are a good idea, but I am so close - I can see the cable where it came off, if I could just get this panel off I could clamp it up solid. I did find one other person online with the same problem, but there were no responses. Can't find this in parts diagrams either - what is it those to rivets hold? Maybe I should just drill them out and pay the consequences later...

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Hi temporarily a wooden wedge on the outside, long term u need to drill out all the rivets and there are quiet a few those three need replacing with a screws, I've got a couple of posts in this forum and the other one the kit to fix is 20$ eBay but a pita. I have both mine stripped down at the moment I can give you advise no problem 

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I'd still go the temporary fix route. The door locking mechanism is in the vicinity presumably and it would be most unusual that Porsche would install rivets which have to be removed in order to gain access to the window regulator.


The following relates to installing tint on a Cayenne window:-


Then with door panel off you see the secondary metal interior skin. Undo as many of the Torx surrounding this including those holding the motor. You will see some rivets holding the seconday skin in place DO NOT DRILL OUT THESE RIVETS - they fall into a metal void without access and the car will have a permanent rattle .......




Edited by wizard
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Hi all can someone post pictures for a couple of questions




of how the cables thread inside or outside of the black door frame frame I've assumed all cables and regulator spindle go inside and comments ?


2. When connecting the door window motor to the new cable and spindle should the window be up or down ? Should all cables be tight ?

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Thanks for the pictures, I think I am going to try the same today. I did manage to bend the steel panel away far enough to grab the broken cable, and I tied to a strut in the door. The window sags a little but it is possible that it would last the trip.


I can't get just the cable today, but I did find the regulator assembly in town that includes the two bars; expensive but available. Since I can't fully see how the bars are mounted, does it look like they unbolt? The part I can see looks welded. I have to decide whether to try the proper repair, or to just go with the tied cable and do it when I come back. If I do get the panel off and I have the kit with the bars, is it fairly easy to replace?


If I repair, I have to get the steel panel off. In this picture, I think what is keeping it in is where this bracket attached to the steel panel. Did yours have rivets there PK? Or maybe it is the bracket above. Mine looks different somehow.


When I get the kit I can look how the cables are attached.



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Hi there are better details on rennlist... Under my id . It's a pita of a job and if you can get someone to do it for 200$ go ahead the kit is 20$ when you start take some pictures and post the hardest part up to know is the Torx on the back side of the window you don't have to remove the frame just the black metal with the rivets then use some screw to reattach . 


You are only looking at 3 rivets there are another roughly 12 around the door 


If you get the kit with the two bars it's even more complicated to fix from what I've done up to know

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Sort of progress - there is no way I can get the bars installed fast, so I grabbed a brake cable from a bicycle, replaced the broken one and I am trying to get it back together. Fortunately it is the down cable so not as much stress, I just tied it around the window attachment point. So basically doing the cable replacement as well.


Question though - how tight should you make the cable? The box with the spool has two springs on the ends, do you compress them fully? I guess they are to take up cable stretch...thanks.

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