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frisbee91

DIY Convertible Top Window Repair

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DIY Convertible Top Window Repair


This write-up describes a multi-step sewing and gluing process to repair a plastic window separating from the convertible top. See attached 9- page PDF file.   Window_Repair_DIY.pdf

 

Edited by frisbee91

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For the glue, instead of gorilla glue which dries very stiff and almost brittle, try using "automotive goop" This stuff seems very strong, remains somewhat flexible over time, and yellows only slightly in UV. Seems to work well.

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I'm having the same issue of separation. Honestly I don't want to try this method(I don't think I could do it cleanly). I stopped at a local shop yesterday and received a quote of $700.00 to re-sew the window. They said it was expensive due to it being labor intensive(taking top off and on). That seemed a bit excessive to me. I have a couple of questions:

1. Does anyone know a reputable shop in the North Dallas area they'd recommend for this type of repair?

2. This is probably a fools errand, but has anyone tried to replace the entire canvas themselves? I've found new complete tops for five to nine hundred dollars. I have the manual to take the top off, but it doesn't go into any detail about removing the canvas. If someone has done their own, how hard was it? who did you buy your top from?

Thanks in advance,

Allan

Edited by vfrpilot0

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It's not a fool's errand and it's definitely DIY doable, but you do need a lot of patience and a willingness not to cut corners. It takes about 6 to 8 hours to do the whole job, maybe a little more if you run into any roadblocks. Make sure that you have all the little parts you need before you start, including the double-sided tape. Someone also posted on here a couple of days ago that Pelican Parts sells a complete kit for the parts that are likely to have to be replaced, but I don't know what is in their particular kit.

Here's a DIY that is fairly comprehensive and easy to follow: http://sites.google....cingthetop-adiy

After reviewing the DIY, if you have any questions or need any clarification on any particular points, post here again and we'll get you through it.

Regards, Maurice.

Edited by 1schoir

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Thank you for the link to the article. It doesn't sound too bad really, but looks like it'd be easier with an extra set of hands. I'm going to continue researching before I jump one way or the other. The window itself is in decent shape. The rest of the top is is very good shape as well. I'm going to check a couple of other sources to see if I can just repair what I have first. If not, then I'll try to round up a buddy and try to tackle it myself.

I'm going to hop over to Pelican parts and see if I can find that link as well.

Regards,

Allan

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Brief update: It's been almost 2 years since I did this repair, and the stitching is holding up very well. The only change I would make would be to skip the use of the silicone caulk altogether. Instead, I'd use a heavy application of waterproofing spray on the seam.

Also, I have seen the "handy stitcher" sewing awl (or something similar) at Harbor Freight tools for cheap.

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Brief update: It's been almost 2 years since I did this repair, and the stitching is holding up very well.

Do you have photos of the stitching? I'm a bit afraid to go that route without seeing how it might look.

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Brief update: It's been almost 2 years since I did this repair, and the stitching is holding up very well.

Do you have photos of the stitching? I'm a bit afraid to go that route without seeing how it might look.

With a good needle and (a lot of) patience, you can actually sew the stitches exactly into the original stitch holes and it will be completely undetectable.

Regards, Maurice.

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Brief update: It's been almost 2 years since I did this repair, and the stitching is holding up very well.

Do you have photos of the stitching? I'm a bit afraid to go that route without seeing how it might look.

The original window did not have stitching, so you can't just match the stitching holes. I used a piece of masking tape with marks every 3/16", and located the stitch line 1/4" from the edge of the plastic window. I don't have any current pictures of the window, but I could take another one later this week. There is a close up photo of the stitching in the pdf.

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Brief update: It's been almost 2 years since I did this repair, and the stitching is holding up very well.

Do you have photos of the stitching? I'm a bit afraid to go that route without seeing how it might look.
The original window did not have stitching, so you can't just match the stitching holes. I used a piece of masking tape with marks every 3/16", and located the stitch line 1/4" from the edge of the plastic window. I don't have any current pictures of the window, but I could take another one later this week. There is a close up photo of the stitching in the pdf.

Frisbee91- firstly excellent DIY article.

I picked up the supplies for this project yesterday. My window is delaminated but not to the point where it has become unattached (like yours was). I am having a very difficult time folding over that 1/4" edge of canvas top that is supposed to be glued to the window. It is fighting me every inch of the way to the point where I don't think I would be able to clamp the whole bottom edge with one long board (as recommended in your DIY guide). I have the top in service mode and the cables unhooked. I saw your comment about the top being "partially deployed during the gluing process to relieve stress". Is that different then having in in full service mode with the cabes unattached? Any guidance is appreciated. Thanks again for taking time to document your process.

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