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Everything posted by frisbee91

  1. Update: Factory-looking replica displays are available from 914Rubber.com This is the same type of kit as above, but the display looks just like the factory display (with "Manuell") I replaced my Audi-type display with the replica from 914Rubber. If you want the original factory look. I'd highly recommend this... http://shop.914rubber.com/LCD-Products_c23.htm;jsessionid=1B770B793724893919AD408A881738A8.m1plqscsfapp06
  2. I did my switch today. Got the part from Pelican, and it was a direct exact replacement. I did NOT take off the side vent, just removed vent connector duct (part "A" in the DIY), and used a very short flat head driver bit to remove the set screws.(see pic) I'm small and flexible, so it wasn't too hard. Maybe 20 minutes total. The small flat head driver made it possible. I was able to unscrew the setscrews using only the driver held between my thumb and finger.
  3. I'm getting ready to change the water pump on my '99 996 C2, and the coolant hose that connects to the pump is looking pretty old (now that the car is 13+ years old). Are there any other coolant hoses I should be changing while I have the coolant drained? The Porsche parts catalog is pretty confusing when referencing the coolant hoses in the car. If you have any part numbers to suggest, that would be great as well. Thanks.
  4. This is just a guess, but perhaps the rack-and-pinion system is not fully actuating for some reason. As the motor actuates, the rear latch disengages in the first inch of stroke or so. It's probably worth inspecting either way when you get a chance. It's never good to get stuck with your top down.
  5. I have a good understanding of how this system works, but I'm not clear on your issue. Is the entire clamshell moving, or does it remain locked in position? There are three latches that hod down the clamshell when it is fully closed. The one in the center rear (under the center brake light) is operated by an independant cable connected to the rack-and-pinon gearbox & motor that operates the clamshell. The left and right are more complicated. The left and right latches are operated by a pushrod connected to the slider-actuators that actually move the clamshell. The slider-actuators
  6. Post a pic of what it looks like without the faceplate. Then, we can determine what model it is. What year is your car? Alternatively, you can slide out the radio (you need two removal "keys" that cost about $2) and get the radio model number. I have an extra faceplate (for a CR-220) that has partially non-working display, but at least the radio will work. You could also contact BeckerAutoSound. The sell entire radios, and perhaps a faceplate. Probably not cheap. They might have the CD changer cartridge too. Finally, you could just buy an aftermarket radio.
  7. Do you have photos of the stitching? I'm a bit afraid to go that route without seeing how it might look. The original window did not have stitching, so you can't just match the stitching holes. I used a piece of masking tape with marks every 3/16", and located the stitch line 1/4" from the edge of the plastic window. I don't have any current pictures of the window, but I could take another one later this week. There is a close up photo of the stitching in the pdf.
  8. I believe the last microswitch in the closing sequence is the one on the top of the Lid Drive Motor. This is shown on the last page of the PDF. You should be able to visually verify that the switch is being depressed by the latch sliding mechanism when the top is up and the lid is closed. (must remove the rear carpet first). The potentiometer is mounted to the back side of this motor. You can get a ohm value from it by pulling the cable from the cabrio control unit, and measuring the pot. with a meter. When I had issues with the lid mechanism, I found that the cable that drives the lid
  9. I wouldn't weld that piece on. I believe it is meant to be a separate piece. It slides up and down while the rack and pinion system moves. Post some pictures, so I can be sure we are talking about the same thing. Here's some troubleshooting advice: Remove the rear lid by removing 4 bolts on the underside of the lid (using a 10mm socket) and unclipping the rear brakelight wire. Set the lid aside. Then, with the gearbox motor apart, you can actuate the hinge and hook on each side by pushing/pulling the cable that attaches to the rack gear. By doing this, you can check for binding in t
  10. I'd suspect that recalibration is needed. When I took mine apart recently (same issue - damaged cable), I was always very careful to re-install the drive motor with the top and clamshell in the EXACT SAME position every time, so that nothing would get out of sync.
  11. I painted mine with at $20 kit from pep boys. It was a "Duplicolor" red caliper paint kit that included the caliper cleaner and enough paint to do several coats on all four calipers. The kit comes with a crappy brush, but I bought a new brush that made the job easier. http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/996-forum/254971-weekend-mod-red-calipers-pics.html I got the Porsche lettering decals on ebay, and added some clearcoat over them for protection.
  12. I'm in the middle of dealing with an issue like this right now. For me, the reason the microswitch for the rear "hook" cable was not engaging was because the gear that drives it is shared with the left side clamshell cover hinge drive cable. The cable was binding, along with the drive mechanism slider for the left side hinge. I'm still not sure of the root cause, but ultimately, the left side cable is damaged internally, and the slider is out of alignment. Haven't fixed it yet, but I'm working on it. PM me if you want some more ideas to check. I have some pictures to share and write up
  13. Just a follow up. I did end up buying the whole assembly Part# 996-561-907-02 for $169 from Sunset. However, to simplify installation, separated the assembly at the pivot points by removing the two hex bolts. I only installed the upper portion, leaving the lower bracket in place: Other than that, I followed the DIY, which helped. Here are a few pictures of the job. The hardest part for me was removing the plastic "wing" which was very tight and difficult to remove, but it eventually came off. See the pics below. Removing carpet: Broken hinge arm: Upper hinge assembly
  14. I had a similar situation recently. I had an old CR220 radio with peeling buttons. I also had another CR220 with a bad LCD display. I dissassembled both, took the good parts, and built one good working faceplate. Interesting note: The bad LCD display in the CR220 was caused by the circuit board inside the faceplate housing. By swapping LCD's, zebra connectors, and circuit boards, I was able to deduce that only the circuit board was bad. (I cleaned all connections, so it wasn't from dirty connectors) Before: After: Note that I repaired my climate control display at the same
  15. Yes, the cabrio top "clamshell" is operated by the same system. EDIT: No, it isn't. The clamshell is operated by a motor that drives a dual-rack and pinion gear to push a pair of sliders that move the clamshell and latches. I too had a some difficulty finding the right hydraulic fluid. I couldn't find Pentosin CHF 11S anywhere locally. I called my local Porsche dealer, and they said that the Pentosin CHF 11S (Porsche P/N 000 043 203 33) has been superceded by Pentosin CHF 202 (Porsche P/N 000 403 206 56). I don't think the 202 is better, it's just that Porsche isn't stocking the 11S a
  16. Did this fix last night to my '99 996. I ordered the replacement LCD from Module Master for $53 plus $8 shipping. This defect is also called the Sundown, Sundowning, or Sunrise effect. The fix was pretty easy. The LCD fit in the metal "cage" without any modifications. While I was at it, I fixed the LCD in the Radio, which was also failing. (Why can't Porsche make a decent LCD). The CR-220 radio head unit in my car was given to me by a friend a few years ago, because my head unit had peeling buttons. I did the swap, but saved the old unit, peeling buttons and all. Fast forward to t
  17. Brief update: It's been almost 2 years since I did this repair, and the stitching is holding up very well. The only change I would make would be to skip the use of the silicone caulk altogether. Instead, I'd use a heavy application of waterproofing spray on the seam. Also, I have seen the "handy stitcher" sewing awl (or something similar) at Harbor Freight tools for cheap.
  18. I did the fix myself. (I wrote the DIY and posted it on this site). Two years later, it's still holding up well. I think next time, I'd skip using the silicone caulk in the gap altogether, and just use a heavy coat of waterproofing spray (like Raggtop, or the Porsche protectant spray)
  19. I have the same issue with a broken hinge arm on the clamshell of my '99 Cabriolet. I'd like to replace just the broken arm piece. I know that Porsche only sells the entire assembly, but I'm considering fabricating a new arm. Does anyone have any idea how to remove the upper pivot point on the arm, where the latch pin is located? FYI, there is a DIY thread on this topic HERE.
  20. Hi! I have the same problem - broken front arm on the left side of the clamshell hinge. I'm thinking of trying to repair the arm, rather than replace the entire assembly. One problem: I can't figure out how to remove the upper pivot point on the broken arm. (see photo) The upper portion of the arm pivots around a large spool-shaped "pin" that engages the latch when the clamshell closes. I can't see how to remove the pin to free the arm. Any thoughts on how to do this?
  21. Be cautious if you go this route. Although the soft 996 cab window did, indeed, have a zipper, said zipper was not the primary means of keeping it in place. As the web site you referenced makes clear, after being zipped in, the window must be glued around its entire perimeter. I repaired my existing window in place. Here's a link to my DIY: I imagine you could use a similar method to glue in the replacement window mentioned above, but I doubt you could do it in 2 hours. Just my 2 cents.
  22. I noticed today that the cap is missing from my wiper pivot point. (see pic) I'm already ordering some parts, so I guess I should add this to the list. :) How about some part number help? :thankyou:
  23. I hit some road debris over the winter that damaged the driver's side (left side) sill. Fortunately, it's very low and not easily seen. Some minor body work is needed to repair the deep scratch in the sill, but I would like to replace the damaged trim piece. I'm not sure what to call it, but it is a plastic cover that is located where the sill meets the rear wheel well. Anyone know what the part number is? See picture below. Bonus questions: Where to get it? Price? It's a 1999 996 C2 Cabriolet. Thanks!!
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