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How do you open the doors with a dead battery?


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Hi,

I am shopping for a used Boxster and can’t afford ready to drive examples. I am going to look at a ’01 that doesn’t run and has been sitting in a shed for 3 years. The battery is most defiantly dead, how do you open the doors with a dead battery? The windows won’t go down to clear the top, should it be just sort of forced? I know how to open the front trunk but how do you open the rear? Do I need to bring a battery just to get into the thing?

Thanks

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Hi,

I am shopping for a used Boxster and can't afford ready to drive examples. I am going to look at a '01 that doesn't run and has been sitting in a shed for 3 years. The battery is most defiantly dead, how do you open the doors with a dead battery? The windows won't go down to clear the top, should it be just sort of forced? I know how to open the front trunk but how do you open the rear? Do I need to bring a battery just to get into the thing?

Thanks

Even if the windows don't retract by that 1/2 inch when you pull on the door handle (because of the dead battery), you can usually safely pull on the door handle and force the window past the metal frame on the underside of the convertible top frame over the window.

Better yet, if you can get the front trunk open, install the new battery and you can solve both problems at once: window drop and rear trunk open. IIRC, on 2001's the rear trunk lever has an electrical component and only the early Boxsters ('97 to '99?) were purely mechanical.

Regards, Maurice.

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If you can't afford ready to run examples, ask yourself if you can afford the potential problems a car sitting for 3 years presents. Ask why was it sitting? Did it have serious problems when parked? Think of the things that deteriorate with age or lack of lubrication. Think how the oil has long since drained out of the top end and the strain starting such an engine will be under as metal on metal grinds as it is trying to start. Think of what the gas is going to look like all congeeled in the tank and lines.

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If you can't afford ready to run examples, ask yourself if you can afford the potential problems a car sitting for 3 years presents. Ask why was it sitting? Did it have serious problems when parked? Think of the things that deteriorate with age or lack of lubrication. Think how the oil has long since drained out of the top end and the strain starting such an engine will be under as metal on metal grinds as it is trying to start. Think of what the gas is going to look like all congeeled in the tank and lines.

+10

However, if you still want to investigate the car, the battery is mounted in the front trunk. If you can open the front trunk you can easily replace the battery.

Bill

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If your pretty dam good with cars, put a battery in it ancrank it over. Even if it won't start you'll know if it had one of the catastrophic failures. There pretty durable cars otherwise.

But if you can,t open the door,runaway, you'll spe d yourself silly.

Pk

Sent from my Milestone using Tapatalk

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If you can't afford ready to run examples, ask yourself if you can afford the potential problems a car sitting for 3 years presents. Ask why was it sitting? Did it have serious problems when parked? Think of the things that deteriorate with age or lack of lubrication. Think how the oil has long since drained out of the top end and the strain starting such an engine will be under as metal on metal grinds as it is trying to start. Think of what the gas is going to look like all congeeled in the tank and lines.

I am sure this car had serious problems, intermix to be specific and I am assuming it’s D-chunked. I was figuring in the cost of sending the half’s to LN engineering and was going to take Jake Raby’s M96 class. I did not get this car but am continuing to look; I am currently looking at one with the engine out that is defiantly D-chunked. FYI, I have some engine building experience with less complicated stuff, Chevy small blocks and the like and I have helped swap an engine in an air cooled 911 once (as well as an old beetle) so I have some clue, small as it may be as to what I will be getting into. It has been decades since I did any of this stuff. From the financial end of things I will have to spread the cost out over a year or two ….. or three, about how long it will take me to do this type of project anyway. The plan with this one was to get the car and Jakes class first, tear it down after the class and send to LN, then save up more for parts and do a bit at a time as cash and free time allow. Plan B: if during the class I decide I have no chance of doing the engine myself, I would buy another one (Raby currently has a used one with rebuild heads and the IMS retrofit for $8K or so, place in California has rebuilt stuff for $6K and up) Crazy plan I know.

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