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Tips that I learned during a Boxster project


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I thought I would pass on some tips I learned recently after completing a "project" on my 2000 Base Boxster (136,000 miles).  It has been needing some work done for awhile now but what started this was a torn boot on the CV joint on the right rear axle half shaft.  So, I needed to pull the axles.  With the axles out, it seemed like a good time to replace the rear wheel bearings.  That way I didn't have to take the suspension apart.  With the axles out, I might as well pull the transmission and replace the clutch, it was time.  While I was at it, might as well go ahead and do the LN Engineering IMS bearing upgrade and the RMS.  I have been trying to find/fix an oil leak and a power steering fluid leak as well.  Both fluids would pool up on top of the engine.  I had pulled the power steering fluid reservoir and it was in good shape with no cracks.  I had replaced the O-ring seals on the reservoir as well.  I was still having to add fluid weekly.  I could not find the source of the leaks.  Well with the transmission out, I might as well pull the engine-right?  Glad I did, I was worried about the fire hazard of all that leaking power steering fluid and oil.  What I found was: 1) the power steering fluid reservoir is a two piece affair.  The bottom part is bolted to the back of the pump.  The bottom reservoir was cracked on the bottom and the fitting where the return line attaches was leaking.  I replaced the reservoir and the power steering line.  It has been about a month now and no leak! Yea!!  2) The lower portion of the oil fill tube was cracked at the engine and the O-ring where the oil dipstick tube entered the engine was leaking.  I replaced both and again, no leak now. Yea!!

 

So the tips are:

 

1) If you have the axles out, that is a great time to do the bearings.  Very simple that way.

 

2) It really isn't that hard to remove the engine.  I don't know how I would have found these leaks if I hadn't. Plus it took me two days just to clean all the old oil off.

 

3) My floor jack wouldn't raise enough to support/lower the engine.  I used a standard engine lift and two nylon straps and lowered the engine from above.  Worked great.

 

4) I found an installation tool for the RMS that was similar to the factory tool but much cheaper.  It was from FVD Brombacher (Part #FVD 721 T25 0).  It lists now for 

    $195.  Still not inexpensive but cheaper than the factory tool and it worked like a charm.  I know you can make your own for a few dollars but I really did not want to

    have the RMS leak and have to take everything apart again.

 

5) The most important tip?  Every time I hit a snag or had a question, I found the answer on RennTech. (Thanks JFP) and thank you Loren for running this fabulous

    Website.

 

Oh, and the other thing I learned, it is amazing how expensive a torn CV boot can be.  ;-)

 

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I thought I would pass on some tips I learned recently after completing a "project" on my 2000 Base Boxster (136,000 miles).  It has been needing some work done for awhile now but what started this was a torn boot on the CV joint on the right rear axle half shaft.  So, I needed to pull the axles.  With the axles out, it seemed like a good time to replace the rear wheel bearings.  That way I didn't have to take the suspension apart.  With the axles out, I might as well pull the transmission and replace the clutch, it was time.  While I was at it, might as well go ahead and do the LN Engineering IMS bearing upgrade and the RMS.  I have been trying to find/fix an oil leak and a power steering fluid leak as well.  Both fluids would pool up on top of the engine.  I had pulled the power steering fluid reservoir and it was in good shape with no cracks.  I had replaced the O-ring seals on the reservoir as well.  I was still having to add fluid weekly.  I could not find the source of the leaks.  Well with the transmission out, I might as well pull the engine-right?  Glad I did, I was worried about the fire hazard of all that leaking power steering fluid and oil.  What I found was: 1) the power steering fluid reservoir is a two piece affair.  The bottom part is bolted to the back of the pump.  The bottom reservoir was cracked on the bottom and the fitting where the return line attaches was leaking.  I replaced the reservoir and the power steering line.  It has been about a month now and no leak! Yea!!  2) The lower portion of the oil fill tube was cracked at the engine and the O-ring where the oil dipstick tube entered the engine was leaking.  I replaced both and again, no leak now. Yea!!

 

So the tips are:

 

1) If you have the axles out, that is a great time to do the bearings.  Very simple that way.

 

2) It really isn't that hard to remove the engine.  I don't know how I would have found these leaks if I hadn't. Plus it took me two days just to clean all the old oil off.

 

3) My floor jack wouldn't raise enough to support/lower the engine.  I used a standard engine lift and two nylon straps and lowered the engine from above.  Worked great.

 

4) I found an installation tool for the RMS that was similar to the factory tool but much cheaper.  It was from FVD Brombacher (Part #FVD 721 T25 0).  It lists now for 

    $195.  Still not inexpensive but cheaper than the factory tool and it worked like a charm.  I know you can make your own for a few dollars but I really did not want to

    have the RMS leak and have to take everything apart again.

 

5) The most important tip?  Every time I hit a snag or had a question, I found the answer on RennTech. (Thanks JFP) and thank you Loren for running this fabulous

    Website.

 

Oh, and the other thing I learned, it is amazing how expensive a torn CV boot can be.  ;-)

 

I'm not sure sure about that RMS tool (FVD Brombacher (Part #FVD 721 T25 0)) as it looks like the old style tool which would install the newer PTFE seal at the wrong service depth.  What was the measurement from the crank face to the seal when installed?

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