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Usually, it is a cheapo cast metal piece in the lock mechanism. The piece is probably a 50 cent piece but the official Porsche part is only available as part of an entire lock package which costs over a hundred dollars. Fortunately, there is an Audi part that works. It does sometime require a little hand fitting to make it work well. See the attached post which goes into it in detail. You will have to get in to the door and take the parts out to see for sure. As I recall, once you get the door liner off, it is pretty intuitive how to do it. Good luck.
Also, the black plastic vacuum tubing used in the secondary air system gets very brittle over time and it does not take much to crack one. I second kbrandsma's comment about looking for a loose vacuum hose but also look very carefully for a damaged/broken tube. It would be very easy to do while changing an oil filler tube without realizing that you did.
There is nothing cooler than taking a "piece of junk" and making it run again. Congratulations on your work. I am sure it was not easy but you will have a much greater appreciation of how the Boxster is engineered and how it works. Probably would have been easier to total it out and buy a new used one but, in my opinion, there is nothing like the sweat equity that the people who use this web site invest in their cars. It is part of what makes a Porsche a Porsche.
The door lock mechanism has a small circuit board on it where one of the wire harnesses attaches. Vibration over time can cause the solder joints to break down/crack which results in really weird and intermittent issues with the window and the alarm. I could never track down on mine exactly what was happening but when I checked, that was the issue. A very simple resolder and problem fixed and has not recurred in over a year now. I am sorry, I don't have any pictures of it. They were on my old computer that crashed.
I resurrected this post as it saved me hours of time and lots of money. As Loren has been known to post "Search is your friend". I noticed one day that my cruise control would not turn on. I was preparing to check and or bypass the brake and clutch switches as well as the switch in the stalk. I had priced a new cruise control module (ouch!). However, after searching, I came across this post. I went back to the car and noted that the cruise control light did not come on when starting the car. I did confirm the fuse was OK. I ordered a new bulb (less than $5). Pulling the Instrument Cluster was very easy. I pulled the bulb and tested it with a VOM. It was dead. I replaced the bulb and put it all back together. Cruise Control works fine. It took me about an hour start to finish. I took it slow because I had never done this before. If I did it again, maybe 15 -20 minutes max,? Search was indeed my friend.
I was always taught to change struts and/or springs in pairs. When you change only one side, even if the part is the exact same part number, the old spring that you didn't replace has been through several heating and cooling cycles from driving. It has settled some from vehicle weight and will sit lower. You said that you changed it as a complete assembly. There is a compensation plate between the top of the spring and the upper mount assembly. Over time, this rubber/neoprene plate will compress and the spring will compress into the part. Thus the strut /spring assembly will sit lower than the new strut/spring assembly and you can get a vehicle with a high corner. This can create unpredictable (and potentially dangerous) handling. You don't state how many miles were on the old struts put the older they are, the greater the potential ride height difference from the new assembly.
Not sure how it comes from the factory, but it would seem to me that this is a perfect opportunity to replace with whichever one you want. However, the asheric does tend to be more expensive. Flat - 996 731 035 01 Aspheric - 996 -731 035 02 I would double check the part numbers but these are for the left side of the vehicle and are NOT anti-dazzel. The last time I looked, the asheric was over $100 (US) just for the glass.
2000-2001 Base Boxster don't use the shims and after setting the caliper pistons back will usually lift out by hand. The Boxster S does use them and they have an adhesive that adhears to the back of the pads. I take a thin putty knife and slide (which usually means force) it down between the pads and the shims. Once you break them loose, the pads will lift out and once the pads are out you can simply lift out the shims. The Porsche manual calls for the shims to be replaced when you replace the pads. I usually don't and I have had no apparent issues. Brakes work great and I have no squeal. When I go back to replace the pads, the shims have readheared to the pads. I think the heat and the pressure must reset the adhesive. I know others who just don't use the shims and also have no problems.
Exactly. I understand what a single green or white paint mark means. However, my new springs clearly have a blue paint mark. So, anybody got a clue which compensation plate I need?
2000 Base Boxster with 148,000 miles The Struts and all the plastic parts are pretty well shot. It turned out to be a lot cheaper to upgrade to the M030 suspension then to buy the individual parts that I needed. So I ordered the M030 Upgrade Kit. The question I have is that the front springs (Part # 98634353115504) are marked with red and yellow paint for the spring rates but are marked with blue paint at the top. It is my understanding that a green mark means that you need a 6.5mm compensating plate and a white mark means you need a 3mm plate. So what does a blue paint mark mean? Thanks.
mckinlay replied to judibake's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)Thought I would add my experience with my 2000 Boxster. Had the same problem with recurring codes. The system passed a smoke test but using a hand vacuum pump, the secondary air system would not hold a vacuum. I replaced the check valve, all the tubing and the Y fittings and still wouldn't hold vacuum. Finally isolated it to the vacuum resevoir. It would not hold vacuum when isolated from the system. Not the easiest thing to replace on a Boxster. Onmy one screw holds it on but I had to pull the alternator to get to the screw. Once the resevoir was off, it looked fine. However, with alttle pressure in it and holding it under water, there was a hairline crack where the base attaches to the sides. Replaced the resevoir and no codes in the last 2000 miles. ;-)
I am looking for some input and opinions. I have a 2000 Base Boxster with 135,000 miles. I recently did the front bearings and noted that the "rubber" parts were toast. The bumpstop is crumbling and the bellows is brittle and cracking. The struts appear fine with no sign of leaks and the car drives/rides beautifully. I don't track it but I do drive it "with spirit". It handles well with no control issues. It has the standard USA suspension although it does have the ROW M030 Sway bars. They were upgraded last year when I had to replace the swaybar bushings and drop links. My question is how much and what should I replace? 1) Don't change anything since it is driving fine? 2) Only replace the deteriorating parts (bump stop, bellows, etc)? 3) Go ahead and replace the factory struts since I will have them out anyway and they have 135,000 miles on them? 4) Go ahead and upgrade the rest of the suspension to the ROW M030 configuration? Is there any real benefit to this in a daily driver that isn't tracked? Any other thoughts or suggestions? I have no problems doing any of the above work. I would just like some input from people with more suspension experience than me. Thanks.
When I added heated seats last year, I had to add a connector to the fuse block. The directions I had called for using an Audi part (Audi 000-979-227) This is a wire with fittings on each end. You cut the wire in half and the solder it to the wire(s) that you are trying to connect. It fit perfectly in my fuse block. I hope this helps.
Installing a new clock spring is actually pretty easy and intuitive. It will come "precentered". The metal piece on the right in your picture should lock it in place. It is important to be certain that the wheels are turned straight before you remove the steering wheel and when you replace it or the lock does not work appropriately. When you place the steering wheel, there is a sort of tapered ramp that will push the metal clip aside and unlock it. The tabs with the forks fit into recesses in the back of the steering wheel. They are what holds the front plate in place and centered on the steering wheel. Be sure not to break off the new ones, they are important for proper functioning of the clockspring. I have noted that sometimes the metal lock gets bent some how and doesn't lock the spring when you take off the wheel.