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2004 Turbo Electric Load?


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Hi

Today at highway high speed Electric Load Warning show´s up and then I notice that the ac / heat and fan did not work and the idle-speed get higher 1000rpm. Does anyone have tips or suggestions of what it could be? 

 

 

We also have had trouble with air suspension since he bought the car. I know that the compressor is OK and daddy say´s it's a wheel sensor but I hear a sound of something working most of the time behind interior so it could be some control module. 

 

Very thankful for suggestions. 

 

Regards Elsa from Sweden

it´s my daddy's Porsche

 

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First thing to check is the battery/batteries and charging system.

 

 

When same things started on my car it ended with the replacement of alternator. Try to messure how strong is your battery and how much does your alternator Produce

 

Yes I think it is the alternator because the load is changing, I know the battery is OK but the previous owner was an amateur so lots of bad fixes and repairs, example; lot's of fuses were missing, among other things. 

 

Where is the load-regulator positioned in the alternator? Is there any module that has with the electric load to do?

 

Have a good day. 

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Tank´s usefull info!

Now when starting is higher idle and low load but when the Electric load warning shows up the load goes up but not full so i think some units go off when there is load problems?

 

Do you know if the voltage in the lighter direct connected to battery or if read something about it? 

 

remember i check the load  before this problem and it jump on & off 2 times / sec and i have no electric warnings then only air suspension and i put that in relation whit this working sound behind the PCM and i think there is some control module for air suspension there.

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I believe the first thing you should try is a test if your alternator is producing enough power. I bought a little device which you can connect to the lighter or any other socket. If the car is running and you dont have minimum 12.90 or more you need to check the system

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Not sure if you can get this in Sweden but I highly recommend this handy battery/alternator tester. It's super accurate with two digits after the decimal point and it uses almost no current so you can leave it plugged in 7/24 w/o worrying about it draining the battery. You can see the voltage through the window when you walk up the car before you unlock it and all electronics start to lower the battery voltage.

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I believe the first thing you should try is a test if your alternator is producing enough power. I bought a little device which you can connect to the lighter or any other socket. If the car is running and you dont have minimum 12.90 or more you need to check the system

 

 

Not sure if you can get this in Sweden but I highly recommend this handy battery/alternator tester. It's super accurate with two digits after the decimal point and it uses almost no current so you can leave it plugged in 7/24 w/o worrying about it draining the battery. You can see the voltage through the window when you walk up the car before you unlock it and all electronics start to lower the battery voltage.

 

Hi, thanks for advice.

Yes, it's 99 % the alternator and regulator, what confused me was these different warnings, latest was "the four-wheel drive" and I've never had that before. But it probably is because the VES doesn't get the right voltage. 

 

And I have exactly the same RPM rise like ekstroemtj. 

 

Regards Bengt

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Not sure if you can get this in Sweden but I highly recommend this handy battery/alternator tester. It's super accurate with two digits after the decimal point and it uses almost no current so you can leave it plugged in 7/24 w/o worrying about it draining the battery. You can see the voltage through the window when you walk up the car before you unlock it and all electronics start to lower the battery voltage.

http://biltema.se/sv/Bil---MC/Bil-tillbehor/Bil-el/12-Volt/Batterimonitor-1224-V-43332/  :)

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Not sure if you can get this in Sweden but I highly recommend this handy battery/alternator tester. It's super accurate with two digits after the decimal point and it uses almost no current so you can leave it plugged in 7/24 w/o worrying about it draining the battery. You can see the voltage through the window when you walk up the car before you unlock it and all electronics start to lower the battery voltage.

http://biltema.se/sv/Bil---MC/Bil-tillbehor/Bil-el/12-Volt/Batterimonitor-1224-V-43332/  :)

 

 

That should work too as long as it's accurate. Maybe a good idea to verify its accuracy to avoid false reading leading you down the wrong diagnostic branch :)

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